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Thread: Birch's RA21 GTS

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Got a fair bit done today. Finished mounting the hardlines for the brakes and the clutch. Put the new clutch on the motor and swung it into the bay. Motor and tranny are all bolted up and ready to go. Still can't decide whether to hook up the EFI on this NA motor or strip off the computer bits and fab up a carb manifold.









    Not much room for the exhaust with the R&P in there so I'll definitely have to modify a header to clear, and some heat shields to protect the starter and brake fluid.



    Started the patchwork to repair the bashed up bits and fill the holes that I don't want to be there, like the rear side signals. I'm going to make up some small flush mounted ones to replace the big ugly originals. I cut out the rear fascia because it was crumpled like paper. A fair bit more work will be necessary to get it anywhere close to flat. I also discovered I'm worse at bodywork than I originally thought...





    Got most of the electrical fit into the dash so I can mount the instruments as soon as I replace the heater ductwork and recover the dashpad. The dashpad looks like ass so I'm trying to find some kind of covering that can be stretched over the old vinyl. Anyone have any ideas?



    It's hard to tell what the ride height will look like with those 13s on the front and the fat tires on the back...



    Side shots with the ST stickers and the trashed steel fender. The big wooden thing in the way is my father in law's engine hoist, which is huge and not easy to move. In my defence, the shop belongs to him and is full of his stuff so it's really OUR mess. You have to see it to believe it.





    Fuel system is next I think...

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Mission, BC
    Posts
    3,455
    stick with the efi if you have tame power goals with that motor. If you're planning on getting into wild cams and throwing on a header you're going to run into a tuning wall pretty quick and will need some kind of aftermarket solution so you might as well just go standalone now. Or carb it if efi scares you, but I personally can't stand how finicky, ineffiecient and weather and altitude sensitive carbs are. If stock blue top performance with a pdm cam and a nice catback is enough, stick with the bluetop efi.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Mission BC
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    2,071
    Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend View Post
    stick with the efi if you have tame power goals with that motor. If you're planning on getting into wild cams and throwing on a header you're going to run into a tuning wall pretty quick and will need some kind of aftermarket solution so you might as well just go standalone now. Or carb it if efi scares you, but I personally can't stand how finicky, ineffiecient and weather and altitude sensitive carbs are. If stock blue top performance with a pdm cam and a nice catback is enough, stick with the bluetop efi.
    BAH to you!!!!!

    go carbs let it rawr!!!

    pete

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Saskatoon
    Posts
    444
    Quote Originally Posted by 76RA24 View Post
    BAH to you!!!!!

    go carbs let it rawr!!!

    pete
    I kinda want to megasquirt my 75 celica, but the mikuni's that are currently on it suit the car so well! The tuning flexibility of megasquirt is alluring tho. Mo powah!

    Anyways, I'm diggin your project! That is a lot of work you are putting into the celica!
    Last edited by DBM; 01-02-2009 at 09:37 PM.
    Dennis
    93 MR2 Turbo, 75 Celica, 80 TE72 2dr sedan, 07 CBR1000RR, 77 924, 92 240SX Coupe

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary, AB
    Posts
    808
    carbs arent that finicky. I had a set of dual 40's on a redtop and it was perfectly reliable and started every day even in -25. just need to make sure they are synchronized perfectly so it will actually idle down, once you got that your pretty good as long as the jets are sized pretty close.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    1,074
    do not carb that!... unless your 80 and the only computer you have is a timex

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Bit of progress on the fuel system. Was going to go with a fuel cell but couldn't find one the right size and shape to make filling up not a pain in the ass. So I got the stock tank steam cleaned and repainted it with bedliner. I wanted to run SS fuel lines so I drilled a hole in the top of the tank with a -6 AN fitting for return, and I replaced the drain plug in the bottom with a -6 adapter for the feed. In case anyone ever wants to do this, the fitting you need for the bottom is a -6 AN to 12mm 1.25 tp adapter, made for Dellorto carbs. I'm going to cap off the two stock bungs and just leave the pickup and return tubes in the tank.



    The feed goes straight through the floor via that rubber donut, to the filter and then comes back in to the pump and back out to the hardlines... Should be easy to drain that way too. I need a drill that can fit in tight spaces to mount the pump so it's on hold for the moment.



    Switched over to electrical and made up the engine ground wires. Ran them all to a distribution block to keep things neat, including one under the dash to a cluster of grounds. Battery ground will come off the distro block and the chassis so there shouldn't be any grounding issues. Also made my daily blood sacrifice by way of runaway drill bit. Note the finger field dressing which promptly filled with blood and spilled over the engine bay.




    Now I have to fix the chopped up 4ag harness so I can start this thing soon. Yay. I decided against the Keihin carbs for the time being in favour of the MAP sensored Japspec EFI because, well, I have one handy.

    I may still run the carbs when I move to turbo, still can't decide between that and ITBs with Megasquirt.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Mostly done the fuel system on the back end. Mounted the tank, made the braided lines and mounted the filter and pump. Braided lines are a work out...




    Also tore apart a us harness to rewire it to work with a Japanese ecu. Its times like this I think I might be an idiot for starting this thing in the first place.


  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Woohoo! Finally finished the harness. Crossing fingers though cause I haven't tested it yet. It's amazing how much copper you can cut out if you only want the ECU bits. Took bloody forever though.


  10. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary, AB
    Posts
    368
    Quote Originally Posted by Birch View Post
    Woohoo! Finally finished the harness. Crossing fingers though cause I haven't tested it yet. It's amazing how much copper you can cut out if you only want the ECU bits. Took bloody forever though.
    Holy **** that's some handy work there. Wish you luck it all runs smooth

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    5,640
    .. someone else can probably confirm.. but if you're running redtop injectors, I don't believe you want/need the resistor box (small aluminum finned box with big round yellow connector) .. you just need to jump the 2 pins so the injectors get power..

    otherwise, slick looking..

    Brett
    '87 AE86 - GTSR5 - Daily Driver
    '72 RA21 Celica - 'Ill build it one day'
    '73 RN27 Hilux - Restomod in progress
    '80 MX32 Cressida - Next in the project queue
    '91 SV25 Camry All-Trac - Winter DD

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Cambridge, ON
    Posts
    1,263
    this car is amazing, i cant wait to see the finished product. Your fabrication skills are top notch!

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Mission, BC
    Posts
    3,455
    are those the japanese injectors? They look yellow. USDM ones are blue, the high comp redtop ones are green. If you're running the US ecu you should just stick to US injectors till you actually need more fuel.

    Nice harness work, looks like your close to running

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Thanks for the props. I'm learning as I go and making a lot of mistakes along the way, but it's my favourite thing to do. If only I could find a job doing this...

    The injectors are Japspec. They're a beige colour and I think they're around 213cc. I'm running the JDM ECU with a US harness modified to suit, and the jdm wiring diagram does show the solenoid resistor with the low impedance injectors. From what I've read, the resistor is just to keep heat down in the circuit.

    I'm getting close to running but I have a few things left to deal with. I have to finish the front side of the fuel lines, which means modifying the fuel rail for the outlet to the Aeromotive FPR. I have to find a remote oil filter and oil cooler to give me a bit more room for the exhaust. I have to find a high rise turbo header and make a custom downpipe as no stock or aftermarket header will fit through the tiny space left between the starter, steering linkage, and master cylinder. Most important right now, I have to find work. Scaffolding has completely dried up and I'm beyond out of money now. But the car is coming along nicely.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Got the harness laid out in the bay today. About half the sensors are swapped and mounted. It looks like the loom is just about perfect for length, except for the coil wires but I'll fix that. Even stripped down to minimum, there's a whack of wiring. Its fairly neat though and mostly out of the way.



    Need to make a kick plate for the ECU and extend all the wires a few inches if I keep it in this spot. Won't fit under the dash so this is probably where it will stay.


    Made a kick plate for the chassis harness on the drivers side. One day I may take it apart to lay out the harness neater but I'm anxious to get this thing running so it will have to do for now.


    Spent a couple hours trying to fix up my rear valence panel but it seems like every time I touch the MIG to it, I blow right through and then built up a big lumpy pile of weld chasing the hole around. I really suck at bodywork...
    Last edited by Birch; 02-02-2009 at 10:12 PM.

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Saw someones thread about recovering a steering wheel and decided to give it a go. Turns out its not too hard but it is a lot of screwing around for a pretty small piece. I've been working on it most of a day and I'm still not done. I don't think I'll do it again, but I have a nice suede wheel now. The seams are crooked as hell but its just for me so I don't care. I covered the bare wheel with bra padding from a fabric store and then suede on top. Its nice and thick. Friggin murder on the fingers though... I have a thimble but its too small so its pushing the skin of my finger off...





  17. #77
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Done a fair bit of messing about with wiring and other little details like modifying the throttle cable and the gas pedal linkage, but nothing worthy of posting. I've discovered that the master cylinder is a big problem with the intentions of turbo charging as far as space is concerned. So my solution is to remove the MC and booster altogether. I picked up a wilwood clutch/brake pedal from coreworld and I'm working out a way to mount them.
    Pulled out the factory bracket that hangs the pedals and connects to the steering column mount. comparing it to the wilwood, there's no way to modify the factory bracket to fit the new pedals. So I'm leaving it out completely.



    I will be running remote reservoirs that will mount on the firewall, which will give me the much needed space for the turbo kit to be added later.

    Finished the steering wheel too. Not too bad for a first try.

    Last edited by Birch; 03-22-2009 at 12:24 PM.

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, AB
    Posts
    759
    Done with the fuel system I think. -6 braided line + 3/8" aluminum hardline + AN fittings + Aeromotive pump and boost referencing FPR + modified fuel rail + Mega squirt (later) = enough capacity to handle anything I can throw at it in terms of power.
    Just need to finish off one braided line going to the FPR and its fini.



    Drilled and tapped the rail for an fittings on each end, plugged the stock feed, made a block off plate for stock fpr.



    Mounted the hardline with threaded rivets.




    Anyone notice anything odd about the turbo header? Wastegate flange on the front side is unexpected, and the bolt holes don't line up on the flange. This is the second header I've had that doesn't line up flange bolt holes, do I have a mutant head or something?


  19. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,221


    I am a bit mystified by the front. Inserts you say? How do they work exactly?
    Well, I guess they would work like inserts, just like Tokico inserts, Koni inserts, etc...
    But my question I suppose is this: Are they generic? Toyota specific? RA21 specific? please enlighten. I searched Ksport and couldn't get a clue.
    I am Randy's desire to go faster.

    1988 Toyota MR2 Hardtop NA - Sold and sorely missed
    1992 RHD Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 1 disguised as a III - I'm not actually that big of a JDM fanboy.

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Cambridge, ON
    Posts
    1,263
    I'm jealous of your progress, nice fuel system setup!

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