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Thread: Replacing 4AGE Timing Belt - For Idiots!

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    Replacing 4AGE Timing Belt - For Idiots!

    I think I'm off by a tooth, I was following the Haynes manual but I'm wondering what your methods of sure-fire timing belt replacement are. I know there are markings and what not. . . I need to start over and want it to be correct. I've done a few but here I am. . . Thanks!
    "mmmango!"

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    put the new belt in, and then the bottom timing cover on followed by the pulley. turn that to zero and then line up the cam gears. slip the new belt on, make sure its really tight on the non tensioning side, other wise that defeat the purpose of the tensioner.

    once it's lined up, release the tensioner,
    turn the crank clock wise, this will cause the tensioner to tighten up a bit. while adding some pressure, tighten the tensioner down, and your done.

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    no 1 cyl TDC afaik, both timing marks lined up. slip belt on left to right, maintaining some tension, slip tensioner on, dont turn the engine counterclockwise.

    once its all on, rotate the engine once by hand to make sure no valves bind.

    In Toyota, we rust.

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    too late. lol

    In Toyota, we rust.

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    If this is your first timing belt, be sure to paint mark the belt on the two cam pulleys and the crank pulley. Then match paint the new belt in the same spots, you can't go wrong.

    However, in your case, I would recommend you take the crank pulley and lower timing cover + holey washer off.

    V E R I F Y that the crank pulley is on the notch. Superfaint notch + dot on the oil pump housing near top. It's possible for your crank pulley to be seperating and you may not see that, even on close up inspection.

    top two gears are easy, especially if you didn't remove them to do the cam seals. If you did, then make sure that the intake pulley knock pin is at 12 o'clock and the exhaust one is at 5 o'clock.
    - Brian


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    I had it all apart when I rebuilt the head, seemed like it was running good afterwards, except I had to crank the dizzy pretty far ro get it between 10 - 15 degrees.
    "mmmango!"

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    too lazy to read the above posts carefully, but there is a third marker for TDC (compression stroke)

    pull the oil cap, and you will see a small dimple in the camshaft, indicating proper alignment.

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    I've been having timing issues as well. I've found that even when everything is lined up I had move my exhaust cam advanced way more than normal. It's the only way i can get it between 10 and 15. Even tried notching the dizzy slots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Special K View Post
    I've been having timing issues as well. I've found that even when everything is lined up I had move my exhaust cam advanced way more than normal. It's the only way i can get it between 10 and 15. Even tried notching the dizzy slots.
    are you looking at the notch on the pulley or the notch on the actual lower crank gear?

    Cause i did the pulley and had the same issue,re-did it for the notch on the crank and all was well.
    Penelope ~ AE86 4AGE;Maxine ~ A32 VQ30DE; Roxanne JCE10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Special K View Post
    I've been having timing issues as well. I've found that even when everything is lined up I had move my exhaust cam advanced way more than normal. It's the only way i can get it between 10 and 15. Even tried notching the dizzy slots.
    stock cams?
    - Brian


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    Quote Originally Posted by mr e View Post
    are you looking at the notch on the pulley or the notch on the actual lower crank gear?

    Cause i did the pulley and had the same issue,re-did it for the notch on the crank and all was well.
    Hmm, i think i used the pully. I'll have to check this. Thanks


    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    stock cams?
    colt tri-flow's

    Thing is I was able to time this engine no problem until the timing belt snapped. It's never ran right after that.

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    cam timing should have nothing to do with ignition timing...

    time your cams first to the timing marks provided on the lower timing gear (not the harmonic balancer) and the oil pump, to the timing marks on the cam gears and the back plate. facing the engine, with the intake cam on your left, the pin on the cam should go thru the hole at the 12 o'clock position on the intake cam, and the 5 o'clock position on the exhaust cam, if the dimples on the cam gears line up to the notches on the back plate.

    time the engine first, then get it to run, then time the ignition...
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    I definitely used the pulley to find 0 at the crank.

    I'll take the pulley off and use the crank gear like in this pick:


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    Quote Originally Posted by Special K View Post
    I've been having timing issues as well. I've found that even when everything is lined up I had move my exhaust cam advanced way more than normal. It's the only way i can get it between 10 and 15. Even tried notching the dizzy slots.

    I spoke with Geoff at Colt Cams regarding cam timing and he told me that all the cams are designed to run at zero, no advance or retard on either one, so adjustable gears are a waste of time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rastaracer View Post
    I spoke with Geoff at Colt Cams regarding cam timing and he told me that all the cams are designed to run at zero, no advance or retard on either one, so adjustable gears are a waste of time.
    It's not a cam issue, they're awesome. I had been running them at 0 last year with no issues. Something drastically changed when the timing belt snapped. Been trying to find what's wrong ever since.

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    wait, you have colt tri-flow cams... and your timing belt snapped??

    colt tri-flow cams have more lift, therefore making your engine into an interference engine...

    according to your pictures, your cams are timed... do a compression test...
    PS... 9000th post!
    Last edited by narfy; 08-17-2010 at 04:11 PM.
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    ^ it's over 9000!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by narfy View Post
    PS... 9000th post!
    Post whore...j/k...lol...What's the record?

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    sorry to the OP for the total highjack here

    Quote Originally Posted by narfy View Post
    wait, you have colt tri-flow cams... and your timing belt snapped??

    colt tri-flow cams have more lift, therefore making your engine into an interference engine...

    according to your pictures, your cams are timed... do a compression test...
    PS... 9000th post!
    yes, it's now slightly interference with the higher lift cams. I took the cam covers off when it happened and checked the shim gaps. 2 of them on the exhaust side are way out of spec (too much gap) and I don't have shims thick enough to close the gap. It also makes a slight ticking sound at idle.

    It still drives ok but it's significantly down on power. My guess is the springs got squished too far and won't expand as high as they previously did.

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