1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
? 1972 Celica race car
I was able to get all the repair panels welded in. So from fire wall to front seat brace is all welded in place. Just need to do some grinding to smooth out the welds. I don’t know what my thoughts are on the 3M weldthrough primer are yet. It makes really ugly looking welds. The only reason I am using it is to prevent rust on the lap welds etc.
Time to tackle the passenger rear half inner rocker:
Cut out the inner rocker:
The front section of the rear wheel tub looked like this:
So i cut it out and made a new corner:
Here is the old inner rocker on top of the new cardboard template note the seat belt backing plate with the welded on nuts is also in that mess and rusted in half:
and the inner rocker is made (this piece is going to be added to my list of sheet metal repair panels):
Inner rocker tech screwed in place:
I built a new seat belt backing plate out of some thicker 12 gauge steel:
The seat belt is being test fitted and it fits in place very nicely:
This is under the rear seat. I cut out the floor pan section that sits over the rear control arm mounting (maybe called a torque box?) The floor pan was fairly solid but there was a lot of rust on the torque box inside. I am going to leave this open till I get the whole floor sand blasted. Then I can epoxy prime this aria and close it back up again:
When I was hammering and dollying the rear floor pan straight I was wondering if the car had fallen off some jack stands or been jumped because the frame rails and floor pans and roccker pannels had a bunch of dents in them. Then the other day at the rear of the drive shaft tunnel under the rear seat i found some deeper indents with paint rubbed off that matched the universal joints:
Maybe I need to change my color choice from turquoise to orange and my autocross number to 01
Here are my first 2 thoughts enjoy the clips:
wow i've been away from DK for a few years and it sure is nice to see a build like this going on.
very nice work, thanks for saving another celica.
My Blog CarJunkies
I made one pore piece for the rear floor tub on the pass side. This piece was kind of more complex to make with it's multiple angles and ribbing running over the angles. I also had to line up the ribs with the ribs on the existing floor panel which was a bit of a challenge because none of them are exactly the same width or depth. I had contemplated replacing the whole floor tub but upon closer inspection the rest of the floor tub looks to be quite solid.
I was under the car welding in some more floor/rockers in place and started thinking about sub frame connectors. Being into Mustangs as well I know sub frame connectors is a big improvement on the Mustang. The Celica is very similar platform to The Mustangs I have owned. So last night I did some Google research and came across this link:
The late 1960's mustang in this video is very similar to the underside of my Celica. So I will think on this it should be simple enough to make. The biggest thing to keep in mind is having the car sit level while building sub frame connectors. I like how this design gives ground clearance.
The other designs I looked at are like these:
Maximum Motorsports style of design: https://www.brothersperformance.com/...torsports.html which sits below the sub frames instead of inside the subframe tubes. These attach to the seat mount bolts so the seat does not flex and twist when you go over the bumps in the road. My design would have an angled bend in the tube because the Celica sub frames do not line up straight with each other.
The other design I came across is on this group B rally Celica: http://www.mat.fi/projects/62 (go to picture #101) I like how this design does not have a gap between the floor and the connector tube (another place for dirt to sit and cause rust). My design would probably have a piece of 12 gauge steel running along the bottom of it so I could use the floor jack on it.
The other thing I have been considering is stitch welding the seams.
I do autocross but am not to concerned with which class the car falls into. I am building this car more for cruising but with the capability to to make some really good handling any ways. How ever I decide to finish the floor one frame rail has a rather large hole in it so work has to be done to the sub frames any ways.
I just finished welding in the right rear section of the cabin with the exception of the weld on nuts on the inside of the inner rocker to hold on the seat belt reel. I was hoping to get new weld on nuts uptown but I am told that these are specific to Toyota and that they could not get a match to the bolts from my Toyota. So I am going to have to clean up my old ones and reuse them.
Here is the progress so far:
I also had to build a section of the rear torque box:
Next up this weekend is building and replacing the whole frame rail I cut out the rusted out area but decided to just build a whole new piece.
What is going on with the masking tape lines in your photo bucket?
Josh Danish is a Scammer
Well the trunk metal work is done!*
I started with the jack storage it was shot so I cut it out and replaced it with one from a 1974 celica. The 1973 and 1974 have no differences:
Old jack storage:
Rust free 1974 jack storage:
Test fitting 1974 storage:*
repair patches patterned off of the 1974:
Jack storage and small patches welded in and cleaned up:
The driver side trunk needed some work too. Either the back axle seal or brakes are leaking. This section was covered in oil or fluid of some sort, does not matter as it will end up all fresh any ways. explains why the rear brakes do not work:
The frame rail had a couple places where it was cut out with a cutting torch to mount a hitch so I fixed those too, no idea why a small car like this had a hitch any ways:
Also started making the fender mounting locations on top of the strut towers and the outer rad support corners as they are pretty rusted. It appears that this 43 year old car has crumple zones built into the front! I had no idea that kind of thing existed in the 70's:
I also shoveled the snow from the shed and pulled out my crusty spare fenders to find the best one for test fitting while installing the fender mounting structure. Each fender has the exact same rust flaws to some extent, so there must be a way to improve on these places:
I do have the card board template that I used. What kind of specs do you need?
I used 16 gauge steel so it should be stronger than new. Making the actual rail was not too hard, getting it to fit like oem took more patience. for measurements I took a piece of masking tape and laid it over (across) the old frame rail and drew a line on each 90 degree bend and at the edges and then transfered Those points to the cereal box card board (large family size minwheats box works well for the length here ). Those points gave me my width and where to make my 90 degree bends. I then measured the length total and transfered that to the cardboard template. Next I measured where each gradual bend that followed flat section you would put the floor jack on the car when lifting the car and transfered those measurements to the cardboard template. The flat edge along the bottom did not get any cuts but each bend was pie cut and bent while holding it against the floor board. then when I was happy with the placement I tacked the pie cuts. Then removed the rail and fully welded the pie cuts. The transmission mount was removed and is just tacked in place with plug welds inside the frame rail. I drilled holes in the floor board where the frame rail sits againsed it and plug welded the rail on. The place where it joins up to the original rail is lapping over and solid welded at the edge and plug welded on the overlap. I will see If I have any more pictures I can share of the process. I hope this helps.
I am finished the rusty stuff in the engine compartment with the exception of grinding down a few welds. So with that checked off the list*I am almost done the structural rust repair and can start on the body work. It is coming along a lot quicker than I had thought.*
The bottom of the strut towers on both sides along the frame rails needed the same repairs here is the passenger side:
I am also excited about this recent purchase. Santos Toy Shop in California*provided me with a very clean rear 1/4 panel requiring just a small rust repair on the rear lower corner I hope to get the other side from him as well:
I stripped the paint from the rust prone areas and they are solid, amazing how a 40 plus year old car does with very little salt:
The other side from santos will not have the rocker panel portion of the 1/4 panel and i am coming up with an idea to build one. If i cut up an existing replacement rocker panel from wolf steel I can make it work for that portion as this photo demonstrates:
This is intense! Great work!!!
Loved reading through this, first time I've seen it. Makes my "restoration" look tame. I would like to acquire some of these metal forming skills.
I also kind of never want to have to deal with rust again though, so there's that then...
2011 GSE20 Lexus IS350 6MT F-Sport with LSD
2005 NCP13 Toyota Yaris RS 5MT Hatchback
1993 TCR10 Team Mondor Toyota Previa GT-S RM 5MT Studded Ice Race Van
1986 AE86 Toyota Corolla GT-S 5MT Supercharged