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Thread: oil pump seal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Toronto
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    167

    oil pump seal

    I regret removing the one that was in place because when I tried to put the new one in it seems to be a lot bigger then the old one and I keep trying to put it in but no cigar... question is: Is it supposed to be bigger then the opening and you need some special tool to ram it in or did these guys send me the wrong part? It really has to shrink a lot to be able to fit in there and this seems like a non shrink part. I waited all this time for this gasket set and then this crap happens , I can't move forward with the build until I get this thing in and if it really is the wrong part now I gotta wait for another seal

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brampton, Ontario
    Posts
    1,463
    it should fit tight, but certainly wont be much larger than the hole.. how big are we talking? did you use lube?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    1,958
    It definitely won't just fall in. Lip seals are a very snug fit in the housing and need to be driven in squarely without damaging the sealing lip or garter spring. Check YouTube, there's gotta be a tutorial on lip seal installation. Like Sparkie asked, how much difference in size is there?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    977
    Can you take an accurate measurement of the diameter? I think (think) it should be 46mm OD. 32.5mm ID. 6mm thick. You'll learn more by calling it a front crank seal when you talk to Google.
    Last edited by b-rock; 07-13-2015 at 10:53 PM.
    $28 Bronze T50 shifter bushings HERE

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    167
    ok using the vernir caliper I measure the old one at 46.16 mm OD and the new one that came with my set is 49.77 OD


    Everything else so far seems to be the right size but if this 1 thing is wrong it really puts a halt in my build and makes it not worth buying in my opinion. They need to fix that or else they don't deserve anyones money

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    977
    Bummer. You can probably get one locally pretty easily. If you have a brand choice, NOK is the original.
    $28 Bronze T50 shifter bushings HERE

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Toronto
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    167
    You mean normal auto parts store will actually carry this? that would be amazing, i hate waiting for shipping

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    977
    I presume you're talking about a 4AGE... at least I hope so. The front crank seal of a 4AGE is the same as any 4A engine (4AC, 4AFE...)... pretty much any Corolla from '83 up to '97 or so... Any auto parts store will have one (is my bet).

    BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523179
    Toyota part: 90311-32001
    $28 Bronze T50 shifter bushings HERE

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    977
    There's something funny going on... I have a Fel-Pro set for a 4A here and the NOK front seal is a rubbery 49.2mm... but the oil pump is definitely 46mm.

    Take your calipers with you.
    Last edited by b-rock; 07-14-2015 at 05:30 PM.
    $28 Bronze T50 shifter bushings HERE

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    167
    Cool thanks man!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Langley BC
    Posts
    32
    Hey GTyeS!, I'm thinking of changing my oil pump seal (front main seal), but heard it can be very hard to get apart.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqkM1imHB4U
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k21YA0QtJp8

    Any advice before I start? I'm not pulling the engine out, but probably pull the radiator to get the crank pulley off. This is for my '85 Corolla GT-S.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    South Lyon Michigan
    Posts
    99
    I tried for 1/2 an hour to get the oil seal on straight. I could not get the oil seal started right to save my life.
    The final solution ****[ grind the rubber off the OD down to the casing for 1/8" all round the diameter and also taper the rubber for another 1/8 to 3/16". ] *** The OD casing piloted right in!!! The job was done in a minute. Dave W

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    South Lyon Michigan
    Posts
    99
    4AGE front Oil Seal
    The solution to the installation of the seal into the housing is to grind the rubber coating on the outside of the oil seal casing. Grind about and 1/8” back to the metal case. The grind another 1/8 to 3/16 of the rubber back on a taper. The seal OD will then pilot square to the housing and it will press right into the housing.

    Disassembly for the oil seal
    The first problem is the crank pulley bolt. Some guys just put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt and hit the starter. I’ve always been afraid something would go flying and destroy something. I made a bar with two prongs that fit in the pulley spokes to hold it while turning the bolt with a breaker bar. A 2nd method I used is to pull the two bolts holding the starter motor and insert a tool to hold the flywheel. If you borrow or rent and impact gun, that would be the easiest solution.
    Once the bolt is removed you can use a steering wheel puller to remove the crank pulley.

    The 2nd problem is removing the cam belt gear. There is not enough space to get the typical puller on the gear. I used a on [engine] head spring compressor. By removing the inner center section that of the compressor, the tabs that sets against the valve retainer, I was able to fit the smaller legs behind the cam gear. Once the gear has moved out a little you can then use a small pry bar to remove the gear.
    Last before re-assembly, lube or spray WD-40 on the crank to prevent any rust, making the next repair much easier. Dave W

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    86tuning, Vancouver
    Posts
    8,869
    I've never had any issues installing oil seals, nor have I ever modified seals before installing. Not saying you're doing it wrong, only that I've installed dozens of 4AG crank and cam seals without modifications or issues.

    Tip: use genuine toyota parts.
    - Brian


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