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do-boy
07-08-2014, 03:58 AM
My check engine and brake lights were on. Coupled with running light problems, I was sure I needed a new alternator, even though I drove my newly acquired car for weeks without a hint of dead battery. Tons of cranking with learning how carbs work.

Anyways, I bought a new alternator and have this one. It's fully functioning.

$40, which is just about the core charge. I'll even put it in for you if you provide beer and a pizza pocket.


I still have the check engine and brake lights on by the way. My life is a wreck.

oldskoolcool
07-08-2014, 07:37 AM
Do boy, my te31 does it to. And the charge light lights more,with the ebrake. The most frustrating thing is that I remember my sport coupe did the same. And I fixed it. But I don't recall what it was I did to fix it

nolanator
07-08-2014, 11:42 AM
My brake light and charge light has been on since i bought my car and i havent had any problems. Wasnt aware these cars had check engine lights though

do-boy
07-08-2014, 01:35 PM
ebrake doesn't change the light noticeably at all. aI tried chasing it for a while but have given up since it all works fine. voltage checks out too.

Hemi3tc
07-12-2014, 03:39 PM
There is a charge light relay in the RHS front of the car beside the glove box. Sometimes these go bad and light up the brake and Alt lights even though your alternator is charging. This also supplies power to the carb choke heater.
If you tap it and the lights go out it is probably bad solder joints or loose/bad connector .



13413

do-boy
07-12-2014, 05:23 PM
That is some primo info. Thanks!! The light never goes out though. Or do you mean to tap the choke heater? My car doesn't hold high idle when cold either

oldskoolcool
07-12-2014, 07:08 PM
There is a charge light relay in the RHS front of the car beside the glove box. Sometimes these go bad and light up the brake and Alt lights even though your alternator is charging. This also supplies power to the carb choke heater.
If you tap it and the lights go out it is probably bad solder joints or loose/bad connector .



13413

Sweet I'm Gonna give that a try

Hemi3tc
07-13-2014, 03:22 PM
That Charge light relay is all one relay box that also supplies power to the choke heater. That is why there is a diode in the circuit.
Tap it, as in hit it lightly so you don't break it. The charge light relay.
If it starts working, you can carefully pry the cover off and resolder the solder joints.
Also try reseating the connector. ie pull it off and push back on.


If you have a multimeter you can test it in many ways but the shop manual says to apply power with the relay removed and unplugged.

Terminal 1- power (+)
2 - negative (-)

No power there should be no continuity between terminals 3 and 4.
With power there should be continuity between terminals 3 and 4.

Also, if your heater choke coil is open then no power is going to flow through the charge light relay either. So check that the heater choke coil has resistance across it. Part of the bottom of that cct diagram is cutoff that says choke (looks like a resistor but is the heater choke coil) that goes to ground to complete the cct from the charge light relay with power from the alternator IG terminal.

I think it might be the dangling wires off the connector that causes the terminal solder joints to crack over the years.
This relay is mounted on a metal tab by sliding it on.

If the light never goes out would probably mean the relay is not energizing to close the terminal 3-4 contacts.



That is some primo info. Thanks!! The light never goes out though. Or do you mean to tap the choke heater? My car doesn't hold high idle when cold either

do-boy
07-14-2014, 01:01 AM
I....... Kinda understood that. I really appreciate this info, thanks again. Your description sounds great and It'll start making sense when I do have time to poke around the car. I'll let you know when I reach success!