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Thread: Joel's Plug and Play Megasquirt how-to!

  1. #1
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    Joel's Plug and Play Megasquirt how-to!

    Note:I just wrote this and haven't spell checked it, plus I have a broken collar bone, so if there are mistakes, please be kind as typing is extremely dificult

    If your reading this your probably just like I was when I started my Megasquirt (refered to from this point on as MS) venture, Intrigued and scared. I knew enough about cars and ECUS and stuff but when it came to standalone, I was pretty much in the dark. Don't worry, I'll try and make this painless as possible. Alot of people want to hookup a megasquirt, but are intimidated by the wiring, if you follow this guide, you should be able to do it. I have faith in you. By the end of this writeup you should have made this:



    What this guide will hopefully help you with is hooking up a MSv3 ECU to your Stock Bluetop wiring harness, WITHOUT TVIS control, TVIS control requires a extra circuit to be built, and that you'll have to get into on your own, i'll provide a few links at the bottom to give that info though! You will also be able to use the toyotas sensors and VAST gnition system in a seamless and easily swappable manner, so if (for whatever reason) you can hookup your stock stuff and still have it run in a matter of minutes. I'm going to try and keep it dumbed down as much as possible, because the problems that I found when hooking mine up was information overload. so lets go

    heres your standard disclamer: YES YOU CAN BREAK STUFF AND SERIOUSY MESS UP YOUR CAR, SO BE CAREFUL, STUPID! THIS WIRING WILL NOT WORK FOR A MSv2 ECU BUT CAN BE USED AS A GUIDE. THE TACH SIGNAL WIRES ARE DIFFERENT! THIS GUIDE WORKED FOR MY APPLICATION BUT I CAN'T GUARANTEE IT WILL WORK FOR ALL SETUPS! I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILTY FOR ANYTHING THAT MAY COME OF THIS WRITEUP INCLUDING DEATH, EXPLOSIONS AND THE DOWNFALL OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION.

    with that out of the way lets begin, here is a list of parts you will need to complete this

    - Wire - 16-18g wire, colors helps troubleshoot down the road, I went to princess auto and grabbed ever color they had in 18g, you can use just one color if you wish though.. it will just make your life kinda interesting.
    - Solder - Rosin core is the best,
    - Soldering iron - I had a 35 watt iron from princess auto.. worked great
    - wire strippers - or a knife or something like that
    - Shrink tube - you don't need much,
    - 85-87 GTS ECU - You'll need the ECU connector
    - Male DB37 connector - if you bought a complete MSv3 kit it should have came with one
    - MSv3 ECU - preferably loaded with MSnS-Extra and associated board mods
    - Vaccum line - Rubber black stuff to run from the Throttle body
    - GM AIT - Part #'s as follows: GM #25036751, Standard AX1, GP SORENSEN 779-19001, AC DELCO 213-190, NIEHOFF IGNITION TS83631 (was DR-136W), WELLS SU107, MSD 2320 (includes connector), Wells PN 235, NAPA PN ECHTSC300, Niehoff PN PS77421, Conductite/Dorman PN 85110. Make sure youspecify you need the connecting pigtail as well.
    - Laptop - with you version of megatune installed
    - DB9 cable- for connecting MS to lappy
    - Patience
    - Time
    - Cold beer

    Step #1 Dissassembly of your factory ECU
    Remove all the case screws and pull out the "brains" of your factory ECU (the printed PCB) we need to remove the yellowish connector from the end that plugs your ECU into the factory harness, yes that means you have to unsolder ALL those pins (TIP: snip the leads off the board close to the PCB, you only need to solder a small piece of wire to the ends) ANNND if yor ECU has all the pins Labled, don't ruin the pinout labels, that will help you immensely to make the harness. I have heard that not all are labeled though, so you may get lucky. If not you will need a pinout of the factory ECU, There is a link in step #2 showing the bluetop pinouts Once you have the harness off the board, set the board aside, if it's labeled, keep it handy cause you will need it! at this point you should have something that looks similar to:

    http://pitobread.com/doristuff/p3080001.jpg - huge pic warning

    Straighten all the pins out, clean them with a solvent like rubbing alchohol or something. If you have got this far you should have a unconnected ECU connector with a bunch of straight and clean pins on the back. if some are pretty magled, don't worry, you only need about half of them to make it work

    Step #2 Soldering madness
    Ok heres where it gets fun, below you will see my chart, if you have the pinouts printed on the PCB, it will now make sense to you what goes where at this point, if you look closely at your DB37 (on either side) you should see tiny numbers labeling what pins are what #, take your time, solder and check to make sure things are going to the right spot, and check again once soldered, you'll do fine. I reccomend "tinning" your leads when soldering to make your life easy ("tinning" is soldering both pieces before connecting them to get adequate solder on both) make sure your iron has been on for 5-10 min and that it is nice and hot, this is also where the shrink tubing comes into play, put the tubing on the ECU connector side of the harness, on the leads you solder, just for added security. there is no need of it for the DB37 end as the connector is covered with a casing. also when stripping your leads, dont expose too much wire, you only need about 5-10mm of wire to solder to the pins, this will help keep the wires from shorting out on each other.

    A - means that no wires are connected to that pin on either side

    http://www.pitobread.com/doristuff/bluetop_pins.jpg - Link to ECU pinout WARNING huge pic

    MSPin = ECUpin as seen on the PCB = Color I used
    37 = vc = Red
    36 = igt = White
    35 = #10 = Brown
    34 = -
    33 = #20 = Green
    32 = -
    31 = s/th = Red
    30 = -
    29 = -
    28 = +b1 = Yellow
    27 = -
    26 = vcc = Red
    25 = -
    24 = ne = Blue
    23 = ox = Blue
    22 = vta = Yellow
    21 = thw = Green
    20 = tha = White
    19 = -
    18 = -
    17 = -
    16 = -
    15 = -
    14 = -
    13 = -
    12 = -
    11 = e02 = Black
    10 = e1 = Black
    9 = e2 = Black
    8 = e01 = Black
    7 = -
    6 = -
    5 = -
    4 = -
    3 = -
    2 = -
    1 = -

    Once you have this done, give a light tug on all the wires, make sure they are securely connected, a loose wire could mean headache intermittent problems... so now is the time to check everything. Thats it. Check, double check, triple check all your wires. I pulled all the extra pins out of my ECU to try and keep stuff from shorting out and have it alot cleaner back there, if you've got this far, you should be on your way. wrap everything up and put the cover on the DB37.

    Step #3 AFM shennanagans
    Now before you get all gung ho and hook this up, there is one other issue you have to attend, pop the hood you will need to either T off or using a unused vac line, run a vaccum line in to the MS ECU's onboard map, try and find a body plug and stick it through there, as I did. put it through the rubber part so the metal doesent cut through it and leave you with problems onces thats connected move over to the AFM, remove the connector, and unbolt it out of the car. If you look at the connector that the harness plugs to you'll see 4 screws, unscrew it, we need the connector to make a harness for the AIT and fuel control so once you have it pulled off te AFM body, cut/unsolder the wires, now we need to:

    Jumper pin 2 to pin 5 with a piece of wire, solder it in place on the AFM connector
    Connect AIT wire to pin 7 and solder it in place on the AFM connector
    Connect AIT Ground to pin 3 and Solder it in place on the AFM connector
    Tape it up
    Plug it back into the AFM connector on the Harness

    Here is a pic of what i'm referring to



    Now you can go ahead and hook up your AIT and put it into your intake somehow(drill/tap a hole and thread it in) it can be close by for the time being but it should be in the intake path.

    Thats it.. you did it big guy, sit back and have a beer
    Last edited by pitobread; 12-10-2006 at 08:50 AM.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  2. #2
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    Step #4 setup your MS

    Plug in your harness, plug in your MSv3 with Megasquirt and Spark - Extra loaded onto it
    You will need to set the following (Copyed from http://members.cox.net/jdlaugh/index...figuration.doc cause i'm rather lazy )
    Spark Settings - On the Spark Settings screen in MegaTune, you set the trigger angle to 10. When trigger is set below 20, MSnS-Extra actually fires the ignition in the ?next cylinder? mode ? when it receives a tach pulse (NE in our case) it waits until the next signal before generating the ignition pulse.You set the Cranking timing to Time Based ? although I don?t think it matters. Fixed angle is set to 16 if you want to run static timing or ?10 if you want to run using computer-controlled timing. Now, this is key: Spark Output Inverted MUST BE SET to NO. Trim Angle, Hold Ignition and Trigger Angle Addition all should be set to zero.

    Setting Constants - I haven?t finalized my Req-Fuel settings on the Constants Page. If you use the calculator in MegaTune, it will give you a good starting value. The stock injectors are low impedance. However, the stock system includes a resister pack that conditions the input to the injectors, so they should be treated as high impedance in the MSnS Extra setup. Under Injector Characteristics, set the PWM Current Limit to 100 and the PWM time threshold to 25.4, per instructions in the MegaManual. (By the way, this only holds true if you are using the stock resistor packs!!!). PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation and is typically used to control low-impedance injectors that don?t have a resistor pack. There is a lot of discussion on the MS sites and in the MegaManual about setting the PWM criteria and it can get confusing. Setting the PWM current limit to100 essentially turns off PWM. MSnS-Extra is set up to use the Fast Idle Control (FIDLE) circuit to provide ignition signals. The value in the Fast Idle Control field is when MS switches OFF fast idle and is based on coolant temperature. That value needs to be set high ? you want it to stay ON during normal running. I have the value set at 215 for now. Control Algorithm is Speed Density ? that?s standard with MS. We have two injections per engine cycle, alternating injector staging, multi-port fuel injection and the engine is even fire. Map type with V2.2 of the MS board is 250kPa. Set the other fields as I have ? they are values recommended by the MegaManual.

    Dwell Control
    The stock ECU controls Dwell ? which basically keeps your coil from burning out due to oversaturation. The latest version of MSnS-Extra with MegaTune offers an ?experimental? dwell control feature. I think I?m one of the first people to actually use it. Certainly I?m the first to use it on the Toyota VAST system. Thanks to Roy (erwendell) on the mr2oc.com forum, who tested his stock ignition system with an oscilloscope, I have a pretty good idea that stock dwell is about 2-3 ms. For now, I?ve set mine at 3 ms. (Major Warning: No Guarantees this will work. You could fry your Igniter or Coil, which would be a major PITA!) After 100 miles of driving and a few hours of idling, I?ve seen no problems with this setup.

    Other Config notes:
    you go into MegaTune > Code Config > Codebase and Outputs function

    Distributor should be set to Msns all others are off

    fidle is set to idle control and led 17 is set to spark output a (these are MSnS- extra settings but they are important)

    Step #5 Start your car
    Chances are, with this info, your car "should" start, it may run rough and stumble, but if it does, congrats, your on your way to tuning! If not check and double check all your connections.. sometimes little things that are missed can cause big problems so start from the beginning and check and make sure everything is correct.

    Again this is what I did for making my car work, it may not work for everyone, i can't control car/wiring issue etc.. so take this with a grain of salt, but hopefully this will help alot of people who are sitting on the fence about MS.

    Resources:
    http://www.diyautotune.com - Best place for geting your MS and parts!!!!
    http://www.jerryjoy.net/mr2/MR2.htm
    http://www.megasquirt.info
    http://www.msefi.com
    http://members.cox.net/jdlaugh/index...0connector.jpg - For MSV2
    http://members.cox.net/jdlaugh/index...figuration.doc - For MSV2
    http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=12830 - MSv3 - extra mods
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  3. #3
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    And he typed that all out with 1 hand cause he broke his collarbone wrestling strippers with me last week. Well done good sir.
    I am your 4ajesus

  4. #4
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    *cough* reference page *cough*

    great write up bro!
    Kanji > Trevor

  5. #5
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    cool

    nice work

    Just a couple things;

    TVIS is normally on, if the TVIS wire is not grounded, the car will feel great off the line but really choked up above 5000, probably with lot's of detonation to boot! That's what mine was like, I quickly put a fix to that by grounding the TVIS control wire on the chassis near the ECU

    Also, it's not an MSv3, is an MS version 1 (also known as 'MS I') with PCB revision 3. So these instructions will hopefully work for any MS version 1, wether it's PCB revision 1, 2.2 or 3. MS1 revision 3 has a nice little prototyping area on the PCB if you wish to add the circuit to control TVIS, it's only a buck or two for the components.

    Another thing I really like about the plug and play setup with the stock harness is the OEM 4age cold start circuit is standalone, so you can basically ignore anything todo with tuning your cold start in MS which is the biggest battle of all. I found just getting the car to start nicely in all conditions has been the biggest challenge.

    Neil
    Uber D.I.Y. Zenki Turbo
    Squirted since '03

    "When I'm old enough to get my drivers license, I'm going to drive the car allllll over DisneyLand, and their ain't no-one whose gonna stop me!" - my 5yr old son 09/16/2005

  6. #6
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    Thanks neil i'll clarify the version up at the top, it's just me being lazy and not wanting to type out MS-1v3 every time

    I was hoping people would know what I meant
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  7. #7
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    You should post this up on the new Toyota only MS board:

    http://tscperformance.com/megasquirt...64146ed8ee51a1
    "mmmango!"

  8. #8
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    Added pics and more info
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  9. #9
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    Megasquirt: The -extra mods for v3 board walkthrough.

    http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/index.html

    In all honesty I should have done this writeup before THIS one here, for most of you on here.. this will be a bunch of techno-babble that is pointless and random.. You can leave the thread now .

    THIS IS FOR THE MEGASQUIRT 1v3... 2.2 users look elsewhere.

    Probably one of the most asked questions I got about the megasquirt setup is "do you have to do anything to the megasquirt?" . Short answer, Yes. Before you can use the Toyota VAST ignition with megasquirt you need to setup the ECU. It would help if you understood what it is your doing. -Extra is a firmware revision for megasquirt that allows you to get 12x12 tables and spark control. If you don't do it, you get no spark. Sound simple enough? If you made your megasquirt yourself it's easy.. again the hardest part I found when I did it was there was not enough info, so I got confused. Hopefully you won't.



    First off, if you built your own or bought your own, make sure that you have your jumpers on the bottom of the PCB

    For the Hall sensor, optical sensor, or points:
    Jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket,
    Jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink.
    Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.
    You need to enable your MS for hall/optical/points step #52 of the V3 assembly manual.. do that by connecting these with jumpers:

    TACHSELECT to OPTOIN


    XG1 to XG2 and TSEL to OPTOOUT


    See, Simple...

    Now on to the extra mods...


    See that grey wire? those are what we have to add.. and a resistor...(under the shrink tubing)

    Starting on the bottom run a wire from D2 (either side it should have a jumper, you can run it from either side of the board aswelll but I went with the bottom) to the Positive side of D9 you will need to install a 1k resistor inline.. (mine is under the shrink tubing again)... done, flip over your megasquirt.



    On the top from the 5v in the prototype area run a 5v lead with a 1k resistor inline to the + lead on d14 (led) then solder another lenth of wire onto the same spot and run it to:



    (it comes out on the bottom in the place labeled IGN as seen here)


    And thats It.... you've sucessfully setup your megasquirt for -extra and it will control all your factory sensors and whatnot... pretty sweet

    If you wanna read and understand why you just did what you did, I would sugguest you read this thread

    http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=12830

    You will still need to flash your firmware.. you can get that from

    http://not2fast.wryday.com/megasquirt/mt/2.25/

    And thats it kiddies, have fun

    And Celica-Fiend, I cant' remember your email here at work.. and I wanted it in forum format. so I posted it. :crazy:
    Last edited by pitobread; 12-10-2006 at 08:52 AM.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  10. #10
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    Awesome. Seriously awesome.
    ?Spencer M
    ?Member Since :: November 6, 2002

  11. #11
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    Thanks for yet another great write-up. This will come in handy. I still need to figure out my ignition setup tho, unless you're a step ahead of me. Then you can just show me what to do.
    1987 Toyota Corolla SR5 20 valve megasquirt bucket SOLD
    1985 Toyota Cressida mintier than yo mama's mouthwash with 1JZ + big single turbo

  12. #12
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    I was actually going to get you to drop off your megasquirt so I can hook it up to my testbed and get everything set up and finished.

    And I figured out how to do your ignition setup.. it's f'n EASY If I had an hour or 2 I could get your car wired.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

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    nice soldering dude! :)

    your soldering looks so much better than mine, I definitely have a franken MS, haha. All apart of being one of the early adopters (guinea pig) I guess.

    I think I'm going to get a v3 for a winter project, with MS2..

    Neil
    Uber D.I.Y. Zenki Turbo
    Squirted since '03

    "When I'm old enough to get my drivers license, I'm going to drive the car allllll over DisneyLand, and their ain't no-one whose gonna stop me!" - my 5yr old son 09/16/2005

  14. #14
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    subscribed.. you want this thread merged with your original thread or moved into the Ref section by itself?

    Brett
    '87 AE86 - GTSR5 - Daily Driver
    '72 RA21 Celica - 'Ill build it one day'
    '73 RN27 Hilux - Restomod in progress
    '80 MX32 Cressida - Next in the project queue
    '91 SV25 Camry All-Trac - Winter DD

  15. #15
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    Merged would probably work, Thanks Brett.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil85ae86
    your soldering looks so much better than mine, I definitely have a franken MS, haha. All apart of being one of the early adopters (guinea pig) I guess.

    I think I'm going to get a v3 for a winter project, with MS2..

    Neil

    Thanks, I've been soldering and unsoldering things for a looooong time.. I guess it comes with practice

    I would do a MS v3 with a mapdaddy map sensor..(baro compensating map sensor @ DIYAutotune) MS2 doesent give enough for the extra cost. IMHO
    Last edited by pitobread; 07-06-2006 at 09:19 PM.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  17. #17
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    ms2

    Quote Originally Posted by pitobread
    Thanks, I've been soldering and unsoldering things for a looooong time.. I guess it comes with practice

    I would do a MS v3 with a mapdaddy map sensor..(baro compensating map sensor @ DIYAutotune) MS2 doesent give enough for the extra cost. IMHO
    I have a 2nd map sensor from a built MegaJolt that I never used. Was thinking of using it for realtime baro correction.

    My motivator for the MS2 is simply for the hi-res code, can really smooth things out at lower PW with big injectors ...and the fact that MSnS-extra is just sort of in fix mode these days as I understand that they are now focusing all new development for the new MSnS-extra for the MS2 which is coming out soon. I can only imagine how much more they will be able to cram into an MS2 based on how much more powerful the processor is.

    Now if they ever get the bugs ironed out of the hi-res msns-extra for MS1 I may just stay with MS1.

    I haven't pulled the MS out of the car for 2 years, I figure if I go with the full MS2 upgrade I'll be able to leave it in their for another bunch of years

    Neil
    Uber D.I.Y. Zenki Turbo
    Squirted since '03

    "When I'm old enough to get my drivers license, I'm going to drive the car allllll over DisneyLand, and their ain't no-one whose gonna stop me!" - my 5yr old son 09/16/2005

  18. #18
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    Would you please post copies of your info at the Toyota Megasquirt forum? They're good resources and I'm sure others could benefit from them if you posted them here since you don't have to register to view there:
    http://tscperformance.com/megasquirt/index.php
    '85 Celica Supra P-type 6M-GE

  19. #19
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    Done.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  20. #20
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    Thank you.
    '85 Celica Supra P-type 6M-GE

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