Page 7 of 82 FirstFirst 1234567891011121314151757 ... LastLast
Results 121 to 140 of 1636

Thread: My Mango progress

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    I got mail

    I love when I get a tag in the mailbox for parcel pick up!
    It gets even more exciting when you order so much stuff you cant tell what it might be!
    Whats next? driving suit or old school patches for driving suit, something else but i cant remember.
    Haha Visa realy loves me.


    loooook out, .150" over, 89mm, 2 liters! yay, I am excite.
    zTime for assembly, need to do some measuring too, make sure my comp ratio isnt like 14:1 cause I dont know what to do with that much comp.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Mission BC
    Posts
    2,074
    you like red.

    big red parts washer

    Big red Block

    Big red tool box

    nice build!

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    ^^Its beacuse I'm an angry person.
    Quite co-incidantal realy, the top box was given to me by a freind, teh parts washer was on sale like 70% off, I had red engine paint for some reason, none of it was planned.
    Although, the mango and the 86 are oroiginally red, hmmm

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Edmonton
    Posts
    1,405
    Quote Originally Posted by paulcorolla View Post
    ^^Its beacuse I'm an angry person.
    Quite co-incidantal realy, the top box was given to me by a freind, teh parts washer was on sale like 70% off, I had red engine paint for some reason, none of it was planned.
    Although, the mango and the 86 are oroiginally red, hmmm
    Nice to see someone doing a good 3tc na build. I will be interested to see what this dyno's at.

    Looking good man. 2L ftw.

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    I have been busy!


    ooh aah


    Reground cam from Colt Cams, this one looks like a cam, that is good, considering the old one looked like a broom stick.


    All together, with new fidanza alum fly, apr flywheel bolts and act copper 6puck clutch.


    Back home


    new drive shaft, old drive shaft, header with gay heat tape.


    new t50, not realy new, new to me, 86 t50 with modded 2t bell to fit newer tranny.

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    Yeah Rob, I realy want to know for real how much this setup will make.
    So many different opinions on it. But in super hopes and dreams I realy hope some where north of 180hp, would be crazy. fingers crossed
    Reality says way less, but if you can pull 100+ hp per liter out of a crappy non cross flow BL A series 3bearing mini engine. It doesnt seem too crazy does it?
    Oh, I only have stock valves right now. I do have a spare head and I am going to order some valves and start opening up the head more than my existing head is.
    I just wanted to get this thing all together first.

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    calgary ab
    Posts
    414
    noticed the cam! what specs does it have.

    build looks good so far, did you do anything special to the rods? if not dont rev it like the 2t.
    7000 max for a 3tc ( if you want it to last).
    I have raced 3t to 7500 rpm with ARP bolts, but I was always nervous doing it.

    you should switch the trans to the older style shifter location, then you dont have to cut the floor pan (unless you already did).

    post some dyno results when done!

    Gary

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    3,307
    I demand high quality picture and sound videos of it running!!

    Remember Paul: start engine run for 15 minutes varying rpm from 2000-3000 never dropping below 1500. Stop engine-hotsoak for 5-6 minutes. Start engine and run again for 10 minutes. Stop engine and hotsoak for 5-6 minutes. > Drop oil. Refill and drive FTW!


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    No, I didnt do anything special with the rods now I'm nervous.
    Cam specs
    Colt Cams grind no. 224.5
    242* duration @ 0.050
    Valve lift 0.450
    lobe seperation 108*

    I realize there is a lot more storke+ more mass going up and down in there. But I figured with all the stories of stock 3t bottom ends holding together at 300 400hp, I would be fine.
    ? now I'm all nervous. I could get some arp's I suppose.
    What is max rpm with a 3t, I was thinking since the 2t didnt seem to care if it was flying around 7500+ the 3t+ over bore so Its way oversquare now would be fine? at 7500 redline.

    I guess I will see what teh power is like and what the delivery is like, if it want s to pull hard up high I will have to get some arp's and pull the engine again. not a big deal. It gives me something to do. :P

    These engines are supposed to be retarded strong, now I'm all worried. Haha, I have to heed Gary's advice tho, he is the OG mango man.

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    150

    2L 3t-c

    Hi Paulcorolla, How much did it cost to machine out the 3t-c to fit the 89mm pistons?
    I have a 3t-c and want to put in 89mm pistons as well. Wanna make the te27 go a little faster this summer...

  11. #131
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Richmond, B.C.
    Posts
    5,225
    I had the crank knife edged, lightened and balanced, along with the rest of the reciprocating assembly, including; de-burred and shot peened rods, a moroso reduction pully, and a 10,000RPM clutch and fly wheel in my race car's 3TC with a 2TC head and Colt Cams. My revs were between 6000 and 7000 all day long during the races. I'm talking about stock car racing here, so the car had to run like that lap after lap after lap for sometimes 100 laps non stop. When I went to the Island to race at Western speedway, my revs would be between 6500 and 7500. If I went to Vernon, (they have a beautiful 1/2 mile tri-oval) I had to change to a different gear set to keep my revs in the happy zone. Those little hemi head toyotas are tough, and can put out a lot of ponies when built and tuned right, for a push rod motor. I'm kicking myself now for ever letting that race car go.

  12. #132
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    calgary ab
    Posts
    414
    Quote Originally Posted by paulcorolla View Post
    No, I didnt do anything special with the rods now I'm nervous.
    Cam specs
    Colt Cams grind no. 224.5
    242* duration @ 0.050
    Valve lift 0.450
    lobe seperation 108*

    I realize there is a lot more storke+ more mass going up and down in there. But I figured with all the stories of stock 3t bottom ends holding together at 300 400hp, I would be fine.
    ? now I'm all nervous. I could get some arp's I suppose.
    What is max rpm with a 3t, I was thinking since the 2t didnt seem to care if it was flying around 7500+ the 3t+ over bore so Its way oversquare now would be fine? at 7500 redline.

    I guess I will see what teh power is like and what the delivery is like, if it want s to pull hard up high I will have to get some arp's and pull the engine again. not a big deal. It gives me something to do. :P

    These engines are supposed to be retarded strong, now I'm all worried. Haha, I have to heed Gary's advice tho, he is the OG mango man.
    I have used the c228.s cam in a 3t , it gave a nice lumpy idle and pulled strong. I only used it in winter autocross so i never really know how strong because we never have traction .
    one thing on install i wished i had used new lifters. I had my old ones recrowned so that made them shorter, the regrind cam is also smaller base circle. now my valve clearance adj screws were screwed farther down. the lock nuts didnt have many threads to engage.
    Paul you may be ok with that thin head gskt and I think you head was shaved a bunch.
    just something to think about.

    Gary

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    calgary ab
    Posts
    414
    Quote Originally Posted by paulcorolla View Post
    No, I didnt do anything special with the rods now I'm nervous.
    Cam specs
    Colt Cams grind no. 224.5
    242* duration @ 0.050
    Valve lift 0.450
    lobe seperation 108*

    I realize there is a lot more storke+ more mass going up and down in there. But I figured with all the stories of stock 3t bottom ends holding together at 300 400hp, I would be fine.
    ? now I'm all nervous. I could get some arp's I suppose.
    What is max rpm with a 3t, I was thinking since the 2t didnt seem to care if it was flying around 7500+ the 3t+ over bore so Its way oversquare now would be fine? at 7500 redline.

    I guess I will see what teh power is like and what the delivery is like, if it want s to pull hard up high I will have to get some arp's and pull the engine again. not a big deal. It gives me something to do. :P

    These engines are supposed to be retarded strong, now I'm all worried. Haha, I have to heed Gary's advice tho, he is the OG mango man.
    I have used the c228.s cam in a 3t , it gave a nice lumpy idle and pulled strong. I only used it in winter autocross so i never really know how strong because we never have traction .
    one thing on install i wished i had used new lifters. I had my old ones recrowned so that made them shorter, the regrind cam is also smaller base circle. now my valve clearance adj screws were screwed farther down. the lock nuts didnt have many threads to engage.
    Paul you may be ok with that thin head gskt and I think you head was shaved a bunch.
    just something to think about.
    yes 3t can handle 300-400 hp in turbo application. but rpms are still kept low.
    I have seen high hp failure of stock cranks brgs. the crank actually is bending in use, yet it looks normal when dissasembled.
    there is some neat math to figure out Gforce load on pistons& rods when they stop at TDC and BDC
    I will have to try to find it again.


    Gary

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    Thanks guys.
    Gary, yeah you noticed the head had been shaved when you were over. I did the math and the compression ratio came out to 10.95:1 roughly 11:1 should be ok. Thats with the thin hg measured insted of the stock thickness.
    I guess I will keep the revs down a bit.
    Rasta, sounds like you had a nice engine built up. Mine will not compare haha.
    I am going to be mainly drifting, autox, trackdays if we still get to drive in Calgary, so there shouldnt be too much constant HIGH revs. A good autox run should be around 1:00 and same with a drift course.
    Howie it wasnt too expensive, around $450, I have no hook ups and have no idea if that is a good price. haha. I took it to a place that my brother recomended. Oh that also included pressing the rods and pistons together.
    I would like to have a 3t that revs to 8k, that would be the ultimate. Proabbly more of an investment than I can handle tho. I will proably get some arp rods and mains. and big valves in my spare head and swap it all some time this summer.

    Now its time to move the battery behind the seats, and build an exhaust.

  15. #135
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    2,532
    LoL, I thought you may have wanted to get your rods peened and beamed like I did on mine.

    Looks sweet man, you going to fire it up tommorrow?
    Bryan
    DK Moderator




  16. #136
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    calgary ab
    Posts
    414
    oops, sorry about the double post, somone delete the 1st one i made.

    Gary

  17. #137
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    I have not updated for a while.
    But I have been working.
    My trip to Japan was cut short due to some family emergency back here in Calgary, so I was only in Tokyo a total of 4 days! Kinda sucks but we had to buy new tickets to get back here right away, and return tickets are teh same if not cheaper than 1 way, so I shall return, haha.
    Everything is ok with family members, just a serious scare, for now, we are still hoping for the best.

    Any way. I built this before we went to Japan.
    cool


    The exit from my header is 2" the first 12" of my exhaust is 2", then 28" of 2.25", with a 12" long ss resonator, then it steps up to 2.5" with a 14" long straight thru muffler, and 2.5" out the back.
    not realy any bends in the exhaust, two realy long mellow curves, haha, I tried a new method to bend. Turned out to be the most rediculous and labour intensive way to bend a pipe ever!! ha!
    I cut into the pipe in half inch increments, cut about 85% of the way thru the pipe, then pull the pipe to close the small gap made by the cutting wheel, and weld it shut.
    It took for EVER, but It kinda looks cool?!

    It will probably be too loud, I dont know tho, my old exhaust was just a single staight thru muffler and it wasnt too loud, my 86 was louder, on the exhaust side. The carbs make some awsomr noises!!

    Speaking of crabs, I did some measureing, from the intake mounting face on the head to the strut tower, is 12". From the mounting side of the intake manifold to the ends of my nice shiney new 45mm airhorns is just under 12"
    have fun balancing! have fun trying to get them in there!!
    So I cut them down, the new horns were 2.25" long, my old 40's have 1.5" horns, so I cut my new horns down to 1.5" and welded some little mounting tabs on. My camera has deeed batterys, I'll see if I can find some in a bit.
    But they look ok.
    I need to get a couple sets of new spark plugs, some oil, and a couple oil filters, then find tdc of no1 on the dist. The distributor can turn 360*! haha there are no marks at all. Crazy! I guess I will just find tdc on 1 and turn it back to 10btdc try to line up the no1 wire to the rotor, and pray!
    Then of course, time it by ear.

    Also need to finish some blocks for the rear, just a little lower, smaller tires you know, require lower ride hieght.

  18. #138
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    3,307
    Paul I like the look of your exhaust bends! I would love to see more detailed explanations of that method, it looks clean and all mandrel and much smoother than my cut and weld j-bends of mandrel.


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  19. #139
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Formerly Victoria
    Posts
    1,704
    Quote Originally Posted by paulcorolla View Post
    It took for EVER, but It kinda looks cool?!
    That looks SO cool.

    Too bad no one will be able to see it when it is installed.....
    HeatBloom - Street Style Since 2004
    https://www.facebook.com/HeatBloom

  20. #140
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Calgary Ab
    Posts
    2,649
    here are a couple more shots of the exhaust.





    Not quite cut all the way thru, so you get a small gap the thickness of the cutting blade, and when you close the gap tight, you get a little bit of bend.
    Kinda like sectioning a pipe to make an elbow.

    ?
    make any sense? hard to explain from a keyboard.


    on the car.
    top secret under aero exposed, shhh, dont tell any one.

    One thing I noticed when I took this, is how low my springs are. The bottoms of the ubolts are maybe 2" off the ground. These damn leafs are limiting. I might have to get them dearched some more, and run less block. I will see how it looks on the ground soon.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •