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Thread: The Mung Blue! Revisited.

  1. #141
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    tommy is offline Redneck engineer/machinist
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunray View Post
    **Edit: forgot to mention the horror that was getting the plate to fit the 3tgteu manifold. Turns out there are only a handful of suppliers for M10x 1.25 countersunk fasteners and they all only make them in TITANIUM!?! Both suppliers in the states didi not want to accept a Canadian order so I ended up getting them from a supplier in the UK. Pretty quality packaging but I guess you can afford it at $12 per bolt.
    Wow, at that price, I would've tried to get 13/32" long ones with a nice length of unthreaded part under the head and run a die through it by myself, could've saved a lot of dough... just saying...

    Can't wait to see the finished product though, looks really nice!
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  2. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommy View Post
    Wow, at that price, I would've tried to get 13/32" long ones with a nice length of unthreaded part under the head and run a die through it by myself, could've saved a lot of dough... just saying...

    Can't wait to see the finished product though, looks really nice!
    Not possible. This was for the turbo adapter plate not the intake manifold adapter plate. Edited post to correct. I think you meant 13/32 diameter? 13/32 is only 10mm. The length I used was 35mm. there simply is no room between the turbo and plate for studs or anything else mounted above flush from the exhaust manifold. The only possible option I did entertain was a 1" thick plate and some hex key fasteners in deep wells. That didn't turn out because the turbo would then not fit due to the motor mount being in the way.

    The intake ones were only like 25 cents each. M8 x 1.25 is common. Had to use proper fasteners to clear the turbo. Couldn't go larger or different threads-no room and very very VERY rare part. 3tgteu not so common these days.
    Last edited by sunray; 01-09-2012 at 11:45 PM.


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  3. #143
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    tommy is offline Redneck engineer/machinist
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    Yeah I was pretty tired, I meant some pretty long bolt close to 13/32" dia. Something like 7/16" with a section of 35mm unthreaded area under the head so you can run a die on it and turn the 7/16" x 6" into a M10x1.25x35...

    I know those 3T-GTE are getting pretty rare, I have an oil sandwish plate from one and can't find the thermostatic valve and cover anywhere... darn
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  4. #144
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    Sunray, I'd bet your downpipe can be done in pie cuts. Try doing pies with a 9 degree cut, which will total 18 degree for each pie, you'd use 5 in a 90 degree. That would make smoother bend than my downpipe (it's a 4 in 90). With pie cut you can do bend with almost 1/4" inner radius if you want, you just have to cut them thin. Keep in mind mine is 3.5in ovalised coming out of the turbo (to cover wastegate too) and tapers down to 2.5. That's what give it a big look, but it's really compact. Plus I did my intercooler piping before and was tired so it's not as nice as it could have been... lol

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    Pie cuts can do anything.
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  6. #146
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    Bunch of stuff in the hell that has become plumbing this turbo stuff.

    First off Its been fun trying to get all the right oil feed/return and coolant done. So far I have just bent up and flared the oil feed. Tight fit but not too diffcult.



    I chose to do it in sections so it can be easily taken apart and serviced if required.



    It starts out as -4AN just in case I change up to all AN stuff later. Going to try a few different set-ups. First with no restrictor, then different ones if it smokes.



    Coolant twist-loc fittings-still waiting for hose.



    Took the fiberglass off the front of the car and started planning.





    Figure that should work for the location of the fmic and I think rivnuts should do the job. But here is where things started to take on a life of their own. I found that with the electric fan I need to move the rad forward 3/4" to ensure the water pump pulley doesn't ram the fan.

    Then I remembered once everything was off that my front lower rad support is rusted. Spot weld drilling time. Sucks that pre-robot days Toyota put spot weld very randomly and assymetrical side to side.



    See the problem?





    Toyota did some origami sheet metal work to make this piece look like a square tube. So I picked up some square tube and started cutting and folding. No body parts are made for these cars anymore and yet an ebayer in Australia still has these parts albeit far too expensive.



    Added gussets that also allow the mounting of the strut rod brackets on the front of the car.



    Not a bad product.



    Some comparisons of original versus new:







    Little test fitting to make sure it can work.



    Still more to go just on this rad support. I have the oil return still to sort out and then its finishing the exhaust and cold side plumbing. Should be fun!
    Last edited by sunray; 02-09-2012 at 01:04 AM.


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  7. #147
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    Looking good, you got some skills!

  8. #148
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    very nice!
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  9. #149
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    Stock yet don't have any orifice or restriction for the oil coming in. I am just running 1/4" hose to mine and it didn't over oil it.

    Also where on earth did you find the those barbed metric banjos!?
    Last edited by Warren; 02-09-2012 at 11:49 AM.
    BCWORKS

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    The more I look at your oil line the more envious I am of it, I bought a universal flex line and is ugly and not exactly the right length so it loops and is lame. I think I want to do what you have done and do a hardline, What did you do at the turbo side? Any pictures? Also I am using the same front water neck as you but I am also using a E-fan so I need one more NPT hole. Any suggestions?
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  11. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by pitobread View Post
    The more I look at your oil line the more envious I am of it, I bought a universal flex line and is ugly and not exactly the right length so it loops and is lame. I think I want to do what you have done and do a hardline, What did you do at the turbo side? Any pictures? Also I am using the same front water neck as you but I am also using a E-fan so I need one more NPT hole. Any suggestions?
    The t25 actually uses a 7/16-24 flared fitting at the turbo so its just that hardline with a tight turn. 1/4" hardline with double flare.

    For the e-fan I removed the lower sender on the water outlet since it has no function on my car. I bored the hole out and threaded it in (can't remember) 3/8" npt?? Put in a gm sensor as an input to ms3 and ms3 switches the fan on.


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  12. #152
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    Ah, I have my GM sensor in there too, and yeah 3/8 NPT. I also have a Pontiac 6000 thermoswitch I was thinking about using. I was thinking about sticking the thermoswitch in the waterneck and my coolant sensor in the head under the intake manifold unless there was another 2/3tc style waterneck that had yet another bung you might have known about.. Maybe I will just do the MS fan trigger though instead.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  13. #153
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    Decided to post something for the sake of it. Lots of work done lately, tedious stuff that I will not be showing just yet. Did the honourable thing today, called in sick to work, told the wife I was going to work, and headed out to the shop and tried to get something done. Here is some stuff to keep my hope going.

    Engine was found to be moving quite far forward into the rad fan last year so cut the rad mounts annd moved it 3/4" forward. Welded in the new lower rad/suspension support then por-15 and drill new holes.






    Pretty common problem with these cars is lack of room for exhaust. I'm moving up to 2.5" pipe to the rear and this trans mount is in the right spot to not allow pipe over it, and too low to allow pipe to clear speed bumps under it.



    Take perfectly good trans mount and cut it.



    Cut piece of large diamater heavy gauge pipe.



    Weld and done. This idea taken from Tom's toyota site. Very effective solution.





    Fitted the rad and intercooler again and then clearanced the valance to fit the intercooler. Fitted the bumper and grille.



    I dusted the intercooler with black paint to try and hide it.



    There is still lots of little issues to solve such as the lack of space for the left side pre-cooler charge pipe, and some wiring, and some coolant hose, and........29th for first race day???


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  14. #154
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    Awesome progress! Makes me want to get the mango on the road ASAP.
    1972 Mango
    1993 Toyota 4x4

  15. #155
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    Here is a good example of skill>> TIG welds on the plate for my Ford throttle body on the toyota manifold. All thanks to dk member-at-large Warren and his uncle.



    I've always wanted to toy around with a tig but never really had the time or cash.

    Seen this a bunch of times and taken it all apart multiple times lately. Thought I'd post a pic for reference. I know now why so many guys go top mount for plumbing as it would be so much easier.



    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  16. #156
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    Man, that's superb. Everything looks flawless, love how high tech it is now.

  17. #157
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    I love how your car has been slowly and tastefully updated over the years.
    I did the same crossmember mod, man your welds look much better than mine!
    "mmmango!"

  18. #158
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    That is a thing of beauty!
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  19. #159
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    Who knew a little piping could take so long. Took a day off work and got what felt like nothing done. Started by piling up the old exhaust in a corner and starting to make the impossible bends of 2.5 inch pipe to clear the steering linkage and box.





    Literally had to install and remove pipe over a dozen times to get it right especially when trying to clear the rear axle. I'm still not convinced that it won't clunk.



    I felt great so I figured I'd start doing the final assembly and discovered that the oil return you can see here would not clear the left motor mount. More Clearance!





    You can see here how the pipe fits under the car hoping that nothing hits speed bumps. These bodies have little to no room for pipe this size.







    Got everything together once again and realized I forgot the o2 bung. By this time it was 1am (I started at 10am). I did finally get the mechhanicals assembled, heat shielding in, and even brought the oil pressure up and checked for leaks.

    Now I just have to install the batttery in the trunk, wire the boost controller, and start the damn thing. Hoping to accomplish all this including tuning by saturday night.







    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  20. #160
    tommy's Avatar
    tommy is offline Redneck engineer/machinist
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    Nice work on the exhaust, it doesn't look that much lower than the stock one (although the stock on is already pretty low). Make that happen on saturday, I can't wait to hear that Turbo T scream and I bet you can't either
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

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