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Thread: Diy Hydraulic Ebrake

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Lethbridge, AB

    Diy Hydraulic Ebrake


    -Mount your hydraulic brake

    -Drill 2 holes for your inlet and outlet lines

    -Locate your rear brake line

    -Bring your brake line to the inlet on the ebrake

    -From your outlet, goto your main brake master cylinder

    -Do not "T" inline with your brakes

    -Just install the hydro brake inline between your master cylinder and rear brakes

    -Make sure you don't have the inlet and outlet lines on the hydro brake backwards (check with the manufacturer) and be careful that some hydro brakes also have a reservoir outlet for bleeding.

    -Do not use long braided hoses or add extra length to your lines, try to keep it as
    close to oem length as possible or your pedals might feel more "mushy"

    -Do not pull on the ebrake handle or "play with it" until there is fluid in it or you will damage the seals

    -Bleed from the rear brakes only

    A couple quick and effective ways of bleeding the brake/hydro lines:

    1) Pump the brake pedal several times then hold it down... once you do that immediately pull the e-brake then open the bleeder on one of the rear brakes

    2) When I bleed them, I hook up a line to the rear brakes, that line goes into a container full of brake fluid. I open the bleeder, I then smoothly and slowly pump the brake pedal and the e-brake, however MAKE SURE the brake MC reservoir stays full. I alternate how I do the brake and e-brake and try and do them together some times.

    3) I do bleed the handbrake itself after I bleed the brakes as normal, I bleed a fair bit of fluid through the system in the normal way and then I bleed the handbrake itself just as you would the normal brakes. Pull up on the lever and crack the nipple, close it before releasing the lever and keep repeating this a lot. Keep doing this until no air comes out and then go back to a normal bleed to finish.

    4) pump pump pump, open, pedal to the floor, staging brake to the bottom (aka pulled all the way), hold stageing brake down, pump pedal back up, keep tension on the staging brake handle till at the top. Couple times of that and we were done.

    Also Here's the link for CNC's suggestion on How-To bleed the brake lines:

    Products that are out there:

    Its a matter of opinon or price your after but you should do some research on what suits your needs. The CNC one is the cheapest route of the bunch but seems to have the most problems. The problem with it is when you pull the hydraulic ebrake and touch the brake pedal the same time (by accident in mid drift for example) the handle might not release and you might have to pump the pedal several times to get it free. CNC uses a check valve when pulled. When you hit the (2) brakes it gets stuck shut because of pressure from the wrong side. Upgrade you master cylinder on the hydraulic brake to a Wilwood one (who have already solved this problem), Or just buy a brake with one already installed. I haven't seen a single complaint about the Wilwood yet. Some setups (like Ksport, D2) come with an adjustable lever so you can mount the lever either horizontal or verticle. It also has a lock to keep it *up* like the stock handbrake. Cheap way to go is buy a conversion kit and buy the lever seperate - some guys like using the aluminum handle that come with floor floor jacks, they're cheap and they already have a grip on them!

    If your thinking about installing a hyraulic ebrake, you should also think about leaving the stock ebrake in place in case of emergency you have a brake failure in one of your lines you still have that last resort available to you (which is what it was intended for), it might not be worth shaving off that 3-5lbs off your car in the end. Also check your region to make sure its even legal to remove your existing ebrake.

    Internet websites you can view to purchase your hydraulic ebrake:

    Wilwood Master Cylinder:

    CNC handbrake:

    Driftworks handbrake:

    MAX USA handbrake:

    Ksport handbrake:

    D2 handbrake:

    Moore Parts handbrake:

    Checkpoint racing handbrake:

    GPR Handbrake:

    Revolution racegear handbrake:

    Lewis Engines handbrake:

    Ears motorsport handbrake:

    Raced&Rallied handbrake:

    Prefab handbrake:

    Autosport direct handbrake:

    TRT-Shop handbrake:

    AGmotorsports handbrake:


    Demon tweeks conversion kit:

    Motorsport-Tools conversion kit:

    Rally Design conversion kit:

    Gartrac conversion kit:

    If anyone has anything to add (Diagrams, thread sizes ect) Please respond, I hope this solves some questions for you guys out there!
    Quote Originally Posted by 4age
    "The Miata will get some compliments along with some ?hairdresser? comments and odd looks from the average public, enthusiasts are never really sure if you are a stance guy, a drifter, or a homosexual"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Surrey, BC
    wow this sucks ass. as soon as i decide to start machining
    hydro handbrakes everyone wants to make their own

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