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Thread: can you use a galvanized fence post for a driveshaft?

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunray View Post
    Are you guys going to just weld the firewall seams after its pounded to the desired amount? The motor mounts look solid enough so the only thing I am wondering now is weight distribution. I bet you are moving just about everything you can into the back right?

    So provided the driveshaft holds up this thing should have gobs of torque so I imagine that Ben should be able to take his smoke-show making to a new level.
    Hahahaha well i think Mike will be the one doing all the smoke making from now on.
    You cant really see from the pics, but we welded in a peice of 1/4 inch plate as bracing for mounts. Compared to the horrible little factory welds id say they'll be plenty strong. The firewall has been reworked in a few places to fix the popped spot welds. We are going to reweld all of that stuff.

    In know you're a busy guy Chris, but if you have time outside of work and family id suggest coming over for a laugh. You wont be disappointed.
    Im flame broiling in my pants

  2. #82
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    Last edited by BenR; 03-11-2009 at 12:40 PM.

  3. #83
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    firewall is pwned

  4. #84
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    yesterday we stripped all the suspension parts and i will be making cressida coilovers this week.

    also need to get the pump mounted in the tank, run a fuel line, and through the tank back in the car.

    the spool rear is in and the rear suspension, i think the ebrake cables still need to be hooked up. also the ebrake is a little close to the shifter so it probably needs to be moved.

    replaced a couple hoses and gaskets on the engine and ordered a new tensioner to put on. still need to get an output shaft seal.

    this week will be putting the front suspension in and brakes. also the tank and line.

    that leaves the wiring, heater hoses/core, brake master mounting plate, trans xmember, drive shaft, and interior. also the hood and rad support and pulling the fenders.

  5. #85
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    dont forget i still gotta get two more 205/50/15's to mount on the diamonds..
    anyone got any ? cheap/ free is best

    update valve covers redone... hot tanked painted and buffed to a nice shine.. thanks liam for the initiative

  6. #86
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    Im not stretching 205/50's on those things haha.
    And ya i left the vavle covers at Bens shop so we'll have to take pictures of them tomorrow.
    Im flame broiling in my pants

  7. #87
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    what are you talking about liam? some new 205/50s will stretch on nice. you know you are going to be doing the same thing to your car soon so might as well get on it.


    need to make us one of these
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ld5h2...om=PL&index=11

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlMhB...eature=related

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsTcn...eature=related

    what is a vavle cover?
    Last edited by BenR; 03-18-2009 at 06:34 PM.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenR View Post
    what are you talking about liam? some new 205/50s will stretch on nice. you know you are going to be doing the same thing to your car soon so might as well get on it.


    need to make a one of these
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ld5h2...om=PL&index=11


    what is a vavle cover?
    A vavle cover covers the vavles and stuff.
    As for that video make one of those and ill help, but an inner tube and rope aint gona cut stretching 205/50s on 10's no matter how new they are.
    Im flame broiling in my pants

  9. #89
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    Maybe back to the question. Sand... not grind... sand off the zinc first (with a sanding disk, or even by hand, but IIRC fence posts are dipped so hand sand would take a while). Wear a decent mask (if you weld often, now's the time to go get a good mask from north or 3m, get one with tubes that connect the filters around behind your neck) when you do this, it's the zinc that causes the galv. poisoning, and even as dust coming off the metal it can be bad for you. I've had the galv. fever and it sucks... it only lasts like 24 hours though, shaky, fever, pail skin, and a general chill... it's like having a really $hitty flu strain. If it's dipped the galv. will be on the inside too, so protection is essential, and seriously if you're doing this in your garage... keep the door open and your buddies out. Zinc has a very low melting point compared to steel and will splash everywhere almost instantly... the reason for sanding and not grinding is two fold ... first grinding removes too much material and the disks just smear the galv. around and clog the disk (which can actually be quite dangerous). Have fun guys, but for the record, I'd get one made.

    Bry

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackrabbitslim View Post
    Maybe back to the question. Sand... not grind... sand off the zinc first (with a sanding disk, or even by hand, but IIRC fence posts are dipped so hand sand would take a while). Wear a decent mask (if you weld often, now's the time to go get a good mask from north or 3m, get one with tubes that connect the filters around behind your neck) when you do this, it's the zinc that causes the galv. poisoning, and even as dust coming off the metal it can be bad for you. I've had the galv. fever and it sucks... it only lasts like 24 hours though, shaky, fever, pail skin, and a general chill... it's like having a really $hitty flu strain. If it's dipped the galv. will be on the inside too, so protection is essential, and seriously if you're doing this in your garage... keep the door open and your buddies out. Zinc has a very low melting point compared to steel and will splash everywhere almost instantly... the reason for sanding and not grinding is two fold ... first grinding removes too much material and the disks just smear the galv. around and clog the disk (which can actually be quite dangerous). Have fun guys, but for the record, I'd get one made.

    Bry
    Bry when are you going to stop talking that non-sense. People use the smiling cyclops on a stick with no mask and they are fine.

  11. #91
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    i glanced at this build previously, but it wasnt until i saw the motor in the engine bay that i realized how absolutely AWESOME this is!!! Cant wait to see it finished!

  12. #92
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    vavle cover pics please

  13. #93
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    pics of vavle cover will have to wait till i go over to liams since thats where they are and liams camera had an unfortunate incident with a large piece of machinery.

  14. #94
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  15. #95
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    stripping more front end stuff today. getting it cleaned and coilovers should be done for tonight..

  16. #96
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    As posted by Jackrabbitslim You simply have to remove the coating on the tube before welding. A wire brush on a grinder or one of those black discs you put on a drill works very well. Just make shure you brush the interior of the tube since it's a dipped coating so it's galvanised on the inside also.

    If I'd make myself a driveshaft like that I would totally trust it since I'm the best professionnal welder I know. I would definitely make one first pass with a tig and cap it off with flux core. Dont do it with a 110v mig cause that makes baby jesus cry.
    1985 ae86 Levin hatch track car
    2001 Mazda protege 2.0L boring daily driver

  17. #97
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    did you specifically ask for pepto pink? if so thats killer! love this project so far.
    81,84,87, 88 toyota cressida, 84 bj60, 85 bj60, 86 hj60soa, 71 datsun 521 pickup

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoAsT View Post
    Dont do it with a 110v mig cause that makes baby jesus cry.
    And Flux core doesnt?

    1991 Tercel 4A-GEsmallport RIP 09/02/2011 - - 1993 Supra.
    05 IS300 Daily

  19. #99
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    Flux cored welding with shield gas:

    Another type of FCAW uses a shielding gas that must be supplied by an external supply. This is known informally as "dual shield" welding. This type of FCAW was developed primarily for welding structural steels. In fact, since it uses both a flux-cored electrode and an external shielding gas, one might say that it is a combination of gas metal (GMAW) and flux-cored arc welding (FCAW). This particular style of FCAW is preferable for welding thicker and out-of-position metals. The slag created by the flux is also easy to remove. The main advantages of this process is that in a closed shop environment, it generally produces welds of better and more consistent mechanical properties, with fewer weld defects than either the SMAW or GMAW processes. In practice it also allows a higher production rate, since the operator does not need to stop periodically to fetch a new electrode, as is the case in SMAW. However, like GMAW, it cannot be used in a windy environment as the loss of the shielding gas from air flow will produce visible porosity (small craters) on the surface of the weld.

    Just for the record this is what I do in life. I built all of that:
    Last edited by RoAsT; 03-21-2009 at 10:25 AM.
    1985 ae86 Levin hatch track car
    2001 Mazda protege 2.0L boring daily driver

  20. #100
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    so same as mig welding but with the flux cored wire, i never thought to try that

    1991 Tercel 4A-GEsmallport RIP 09/02/2011 - - 1993 Supra.
    05 IS300 Daily

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