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Thread: Fuel Pump Dead? Replacment in an AE86...?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Brampton, Ontario
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    Icon1 Fuel Pump Dead? Replacment in an AE86...?

    I did a quick search on DK, but didn't really find anything on this... I KNOW I've read it on here before, but perhaps it was deleted from the big DK crash..? Or perhaps someone can link me to it?

    Anyway, I believe my fuel-pump is dead. Car won't start and I don't hear anything from the fuel tank when I turn the key into the on position. Fuel pump may possibly be dead.

    Could it possibly be a fuse? Where is the fuse for the fuel pump located?

    If it's the fuel-pump itself, how do I go about replacing it? I recall you being able to replace the fuel-gauge thingie by means of a secret trap-door in the coupe, but does that include fuel-pumps? .. but anyway, I have a hatch. I guess I'm just asking out of curiosity. LoL.

    Lastly, anyone know the best way to source out and get myself a working fuel-pump? Canadian Tire? Princess Auto? Toyota? ... And anyone have any experience replacing a fuel-pump and can give me a hand? I'll pay you for your time. Case of beer, dinner on me, or something else we can work out. Car is currently located in Brampton at my parent's place.

    Thanks!
    - TVK -

    "There's A Vid In All Of Us!"
    "Do You Know How I Fix Rusty Cars? I Buy A New One." - Ben (Soulibrium)

  2. #2
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    I bought mine from Autovalue here in Calgary. You cannot access the fuel pump from the trunk (I have a HB, so... I'm not sure if coupe is diff.) you have to drop the tank. Basically, drain the tank, undo the tank straps and be very, very careful on the lines going to the fuel pump. You'll have to jack the car up quite some height for the gas tank to drop (this is where you should be careful with the fuel lines) and drop the tank. From there you can access the fuel pump. Mark the lines, pop the new one in and you'll be good to go.

    I've never done it - only read about it and have seen it done. Seems straightfoward, the lines are probably going to be the hard parts on the job. Also - if you have the tank out, get it professionaly cleaned and the pump, if fails - will be warrantied (via reciept for cleaning...). Also - when my pump went it gave an on + off acceleration for a while and then just stopped. The car would not turn over.

    About the fuse, I have no idea. Lol.
    AE86 | Tacoma X-Runner
    4AGE 20V | 1GR-FE


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Victoria, BC
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    TVK, what year is your car?

    Theres a FP test point in the kouki diagnostic port, if you jumper FP to ... B+? I think it is, it should bypass the control circuitry and power the pump directly.. then check the pump wire @ the harness plug and make sure you've got voltage ..

    if zenki, Id say check voltage while someone tries to start it.. if none, then a problem upstream, if you've got voltage and no pump, then yeah, your pump is toast, id figure.

    if trying to drop the tank with the lines still attached (probably the only way your gonna be able to do it in an ontario car, even my BC cars hi pressure line had the nuts rusted solid..) Id probably undo some of the line brackets up along the way in the trans tunnel, so that you can get a little more slack in things..

    Brett
    '87 AE86 - GTSR5 - Daily Driver
    '72 RA21 Celica - 'Ill build it one day'
    '73 RN27 Hilux - Restomod in progress
    '80 MX32 Cressida - Next in the project queue
    '91 SV25 Camry All-Trac - Winter DD

  4. #4
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    Sep 2004
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    my fuel pump gave up on me during winter. There are 2 connectors in your trunk( where there's the oval plate) the large rectangular connector is for the fuel pump and the other one for the "gas level sensor" disconnect the wire for the fuel pump and check if there's any voltage when you turn on your key. this will indicate if there's any electricity going to your fuel pump. If there is, then it could be the fuel pump itself. unbolt the square rubber plate at the gas panel and take it off, unbolt the 2 straps that hold your gas tank. Just be careful when taking the tank down because 20+years old gas line are fragile. See where there is 3 hoses that goes in the tank? That's the fuel pump support. Mark which hose goes where. unscew it from the tank, carefully remove the support and you should see the fuel pump on the support. If there was voltage from the connector, plug your fuel pump directly to check it out one more time. underneath the fuel pump there a small hole where the fuel is aspirated. If it's working, you should see the helice inside turning. In my case, the fuel pump was dead. I changed it for a walbro(some ppl say it's) Put everything back in place.
    so far so good. the pump is quiet, barely noticable.

    Some tips: It's always better to have a almost empty tank to work with. because it's a pain in the @%% when you have to lift the tank to strap it back on.
    Some people cut a rectangular in the trunk right on top of the fuel pump support to make it more practical for this kind of job. Last but not least, make sure the connectors are well clipped. Because while drifting, it might disconnect and you'll be there like wtf

    Hope it'll help
    Cao
    DoriKaZe's a LifeStYle

  5. #5
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    PS: Don't smoke around this tank. You'll get owned. (if you smoke..)
    AE86 | Tacoma X-Runner
    4AGE 20V | 1GR-FE


  6. #6
    Join Date
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    if you have a zenki, then just push the AFM flap in when the key is turn to "on" position. That'll turn on the fuel pump

  7. #7
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    I have a zenki.

    And there isn't an AFM, since my car's TC'd.

    So it IS possible to lower the tank if I undo some of the straps holding up the fuel lines?

    I had to change my fuel filter and it was biznatch because the lines were all rusted. I had to use some whatchamacallit-tape to seal the leak on the ends going into it.
    - TVK -

    "There's A Vid In All Of Us!"
    "Do You Know How I Fix Rusty Cars? I Buy A New One." - Ben (Soulibrium)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by The VidKid View Post
    So it IS possible to lower the tank if I undo some of the straps holding up the fuel lines?
    First, diagnose your non-running fuel pump. Check for power at the connector in the trunk. The one with two wires... check for both +12 and ground.

    If you have power and the FP doesn't spin, try smacking the bottom of the tank with a mallet, 2x4 or whatever. I've used boots to kick them when there was nothing else available. Sometimes smacking the tank (not hard enough to dent it!) will make a sticky pump spin.

    Yes, you must drop the tank to get the pump.

    General procedure is to jack up the tail of the car as high as possible.

    Undo the filler neck thing. Unplug the two connectors in the trunk.

    Support the tank and then remove the two straps. If you're LAZY you can just pull the 2 pins, but it's much much better to undo the 2 bolts. Lower the tank just enough to undo the screws holding the pump bracket in place. Lower the tank some more, then r&r the fuel pump while the bracket is still 1/2 way in the car. I support the tank on the jack + 2 stands, or whatever.

    On a truly rust-free car you can sometimes undo the fluid lines first, then lower the whole thing to the ground.
    - Brian


  9. #9
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    I have a hatch (as stated in my first post, lol). Any difference with the procedure? Is there a secret-trap door in the hatch compartment?
    - TVK -

    "There's A Vid In All Of Us!"
    "Do You Know How I Fix Rusty Cars? I Buy A New One." - Ben (Soulibrium)

  10. #10
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    No trap door, fuel tank has to be dropped.
    AE86 | Tacoma X-Runner
    4AGE 20V | 1GR-FE


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by The VidKid View Post
    Is there a secret-trap door in the hatch compartment?
    negative ghostrider.

    test for power to the pump first. then drop the tank.

    it would really really really suck to replace the pump, only to find a broken wire in the trunk afterwards when the new pump doesn't work either.

    fwiw, new denso pumps are less than $200 if you can find the proper sources. or just get a used pump from any 1990-1997 japanese car. supra, rx7, cressida, camry, etc.
    - Brian


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    do the FSM test procedure as Brian suggested before buying a new pump.

    IIRC, the AFM has the fuel pump switch and the fuse box has the fuel circuit relay...

    bought my Denso fuel pump kit (w/ filter) from densoproducts.com for about $115 shipped. not sure if shipping is extra to Canada.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    first check all your fuses realting to EFI, one of them is for the fuel pump, i'm not sure which one though. there should be 2 (one 7.5a, one 15a) efi/ignition related fuses in the engine bay and 2 (one 7.5a, one 15a) in the drivers side kick panel. theres a fuse diagram on dorikaze.ca so check those first.

    if theyre all good. test for power at the pump. disconnect the harness by the access panel and test for power there. if you have power, its the pump. drop the tank, pull the pump out. if not, check for broken connections or shorts in the wires leading up to that harness.

    for dropping the tank: jack up on the axle, place jack stands as far outwards as possible. make sure you jack it up high enough to get the filler neck out when you drop the tank. disconnect sending unit and fuel pump harnesses from up top. take off the filler neck plastic clip (4 screws), get underneath, undo 2 of the fuel lines that you can see, the last one you have to disconnect when the tank is slightly dropped since it disconnects overtop of the tank (at least thats how it is on mine). put a jack under the tank with a piece of wood in between the tank and jack. undo the straps (1 bolt for each strap at the front of the tank) and drop the tank with the jack. only drop it halfway and undo that last fuel line and then drop it fully. unscrew the fuel pump assembly and pull it out. pretty easy.

    as for replacement, i used a walbro 255lph pump and it works fine. but i do have a 20v silvertop. if its a stock 4age that might not be the best choice. there's lots of oem replacement pumps that you can get with a lower lph. search ebay and whatnot. and swapping out the pumps is pretty much by the book. strainer, 1 hose, 1 power wire, 1 ground wire.

    keep in mind, if you test the pump outside the tank and it works. just change it. i've tried that and gone through this whole fiasco many times before giving up and just replacing the pump and having the new pump work.

    whole process only takes about 2 or 3 hours. hope this helps.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    519
    i did a real ghetto way to see if my fuel pump is working or not. I just unscrew the fuel line a bit and have someone crank it for short bursts to see if fuel comes out.

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