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Thread: Jehuty's SR5

  1. #1
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    Jehuty's SR5

    So I picked up my first AE86, an 87 SR5 back in December. It was rotted to hell, The rear arches rotted out pretty bad and the front was prety bad too.

    I'd never done any body work before in my life. I didn't have the know how or the tools but I figured I'd give it a shot.

    I headed down to Canadian Tire and picked up all the supplies and got to work, little did I know a project I thought would take me a couple days turned into more then a month or problems.

    After I did the body work I decided I'd repaint it so I got a quote from a guy who lives 2 houses down from me (he does body work for a living). he said $2000 to paint it and that didnt include body work.

    So I decided I'd just do it myself, I looked into getting a spray gun but at the time I thought it was too expensive and messy. Then I stumbled apon the $50 paint job, I dont really even know how I found it.

    So I gathered up the supplies and did it, After hours and hours and hours and hours of wet sanding it finally turned out pretty good, not perfect by any means but good enough for an SR5.

    Anyways I didnt take many pictures but I documented alot of my work with a collection of videos, if you can put up with me blabing on endlessly about stuff, take a look.

    Its not much but I'm really happy with the results of my hard work.



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FqCj...e=channel_page
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TISxi...e=channel_page
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=285eO...e=channel_page
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-MwR...e=channel_page
    Last edited by Jehuty77; 05-21-2009 at 05:14 PM.

  2. #2
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    is it just me or does that paint scheme remind anyone else of the black and white patches on a panada?

  3. #3
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    LOL!

    When I was at wal-mart last week some guy said I should have a big stuffed Panda in the back window.

    Isn't this one of the most popular paint schemes around?

  4. #4
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    it just needs tofu stickers and your golden

  5. #5
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    Why didnt I think of that? I can deliver everyone Tofu and be a drift master!

    LOL

    Seriously though I did the paint job because I like the way it looks, lots of people have this paint scheme.

    Well regardless it was alot of work and I'm happy with the results. Yay for tremclad.

  6. #6
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    Oct 2009
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    canada
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    That Paint Job is Classic for the Hachi-Roku.

    Makes it distinctively more noticeable.

    It's like what Red and Yellow is on a Ferrari.

  7. #7
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    lol this thread is ancient, I thought this thread was long deleted.
    Last edited by Jehuty77; 11-19-2009 at 01:31 AM.

  8. #8
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    Long story short I've had this car for quite a few years, while I have a few cars, I use this as my winter beater.

    Over the last 2 years the rear main seal has slowly gotten worse and worse, it was leaking easily a liter per week(free undercoating).

    Just a few weeks ago when I took it out of storage for this winter I turned her on, looked underneath and the oil was pouring out, must have lost a litre in like 5min.

    I decided the rear main has to be done, While were at it were gonna do the front main seal, cam seal and re-seal the oil pan.

    Here's a few pics of the progress so far.

    Its still not finished.

    Before anyone jumps the gun and says "shoulda gone 4AG", its not in the budget right now, I'd love to but I cant with other financial obligations, its the little things like wiring differences and such that would hold it up.

    I'd love to slap in a T50 with my 4AC but I need the correct clutch, Clutch pedal, bell housing, etc.

    I'm considering in the future going sidedraft on my 4AC just for sh*ts and giggles.

    ALSO I want to do a vacuum delete on this biotch.



    NO I didn't use this, but I thought it was funny. Magic in a bottle!




























    PART # LOG

    Mechanical Fuel Pump - Carter M60414
    Last edited by Jehuty77; 11-18-2013 at 01:32 PM.

  9. #9
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    Gold top 4a. Rare
    1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
    1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
    ? 1972 Celica race car

  10. #10
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    So I wanna do vacuum delete, most of this stuff is apparently useless


    So many vac lines :0

  11. #11
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    ...if it works, why fart with it? these carbs were built with a fair bit of consideration to making them work around a variety of conditions. I did a rats nest removal on an FB before and it really just takes a ton of time and makes it look better.

    collecting bits to do a fuelly swap would be better worth your time in my humblest of opinions.

  12. #12
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    Last night I did the front main seal, cam seal and bolted up the Torque Converter to the Flex plate which was a pain in the ass.





    Ran into a bit of an issue bolting up the torque converter which I covered in another thread but i'll post the contents here:

    I have 2 torque wrenches

    - Powerfist 3/8 Drive (10ft/lbs-80ft/lbs)
    - Master Craft 1/2 Drive (20ft/lbs-?)

    Anyways the book calls for 20 FT/LBS

    My plan was to tighten the torque converter in 2 passes in a cross pattern,
    1) first 10ft/lbs(using the 3/8 drive) then
    2) 20ft/lbs(using the 1/2 drive cuz its better quality and I trust its reading)

    So I tightened them all to 10Ft/lbs(put in lock tight), switched over to the 1/2 drive to go from 10 to 20 ft/lbs.

    It started clicking immediately signaling it was already at 20ft/lbs, so I thought this is ****ed, I set the torque wrench to 30 ft/lbs to see if it would still click, it did, when I set it to 35ft/lbs it didn't, I wasn't trying to tighten it anymore, just trying to gauge what spec its actually at.

    It was also still a little hard to gauge if I was getting the right reading off the torque wrench cuz I had to have a buddy stopping the motor from spinning while I tightened the bolts which created a bit of a see-saw motion as I tried to tighten it. Eventually I just jammed a wrench in to stop it form spinning and I still got the same reading.

    I was thinking I could try to tighten them up again to see the spec once the tranny is connected to the driveshaft long as the bolts are accessible(im sure it will be a pain with the subframe right in the same area.

    So now I have to assume the power fist one gave the wrong reading and its actually at 35 ft/lbs.

    I briefly tried to loosen the bolts to try again but they were so tight I didn't wanna risk snapping any off so I gave up on that idea(ill have to use a torch if I wanna takem off).

    So my question is will it be fine over tightened like that? thoughts?

  13. #13
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    Motors Back in!



    Shes not running yet but we ran into an issue.

    When dropping the motor back in the head rammed the heater core pipe flattening it like a pancake.

    Using a Heat Gun, A deep socket and lots of patience, I was able to bend It mostly back into something resembling a pipe, however now the pipe is more square then round(except right where the hose is suppose to go, that part i got roundish) my question is, will this impact the flow of coolant in any serious way? effect the engine, etc?

    My assumption is no but i'm looking for input anyways.

    ALSO, is that the return line or the line sending coolant? I'm assuming its the return.

  14. #14
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    Hamilton, ON
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    I don't know if that's the factory return line or not, but they are kind of a bipolar thing anyhow. I did this on the daily and had a similar fix. I got a socket inside to roughly resemble a round shape again, check for cracks, then applied rtv silicone around the heater core pipe and then gently as possible replaced the heater hose and used a regular screw hose clamp a little tighter than what the Toyota spring clamp would do, then let the rtv cure 24 hours. Also make sure its just the stock .9 bar/13psi rad cap. It has worked to date in the daily sedan.

    also it will not effect anything coolant related or the function of the heater core.

  15. #15
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    I'm sure its fine. IF you are worried replace the pipe with hose. ITs not like this thing revs to 9k
    I am your 4ajesus

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jehuty77 View Post
    Motors Back in!

    Shes not running yet but we ran into an issue.

    When dropping the motor back in the head rammed the heater core pipe flattening it like a pancake.

    Using a Heat Gun, A deep socket and lots of patience, I was able to bend It mostly back into something resembling a pipe, however now the pipe is more square then round(except right where the hose is suppose to go, that part i got roundish) my question is, will this impact the flow of coolant in any serious way? effect the engine, etc?

    My assumption is no but i'm looking for input anyways.
    I had a similar issue when replacing the old heater hoses on my 86; they're so delicate that it's nearly impossible to keep them perfectly round. You did the right thing by massaging it back to shape with heat.

    If you're really concerned, pull your heater core and have it rebuilt by a rad shop. I did, and I'm thankful for it. The brazing where the pipes and the core meet were cracked and liable to leak in the future.

  17. #17
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  18. #18
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    ^ not cover on the T-belt and something went through it?

    I briefly tried to loosen the bolts to try again but they were so tight I didn't wanna risk snapping any off so I gave up on that idea(ill have to use a torch if I wanna takem off).
    35 ft lbs is **** all. You can tighten blots far beyond that with a regular wrench and loosen bolts that are a lot tighter than that with the same. Its just a bit of a biatch to get to those ones. I wold not have even bothered using a torque wrench in the first place and just cinched them down with a wrench to a precise torque of tight.
    1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
    1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
    ? 1972 Celica race car

  19. #19
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    No the belt must have been bad

    I had it idle in the garage for about 30min, suddenly the motor just stopped and the belt flung up.

    I did hear a strange ticking noise before the belt popped, not sure where the noise is coming from, will have to see if the noise persists after I install a new belt.

    I think the ticking was coming from the back of the head but its hard to tell, could have been the belt.
    Last edited by Jehuty77; 12-18-2013 at 08:15 AM.

  20. #20
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    Crank and cam still turns easy?
    1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
    1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
    ? 1972 Celica race car

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