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Thread: How To Diagnose/Rebuild 4AGE Alternator?

  1. #1
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    How To Diagnose/Rebuild 4AGE Alternator?

    Tell me what to check and how to do it! Where does the yellow wire go, and how do you get the pulley wheel off?! I have a couple alts laying around and as far as I can tell they are all pooched - but maybe it's just brushes, maybe it's a voltage regulator. . . show me the way ASAP or tell me where to get a freshy (Supra alt possibly?).
    "mmmango!"

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    Stoked you made this thread, my ae86's alternator is sitting on my coffee table right now... waiting to be fixed.

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    charge light on all the time?

    check the brushes & slip rings. if the brushes are shorter than 5mm replace. Take tin cover off, and the brushes are held in with two philips screws in the centre. if the slip rings are grooved up, use fine fine sandpaper to smooth em up.

    charge light not on at all? test all four wires to the alt, key on, engine off, all four wires should see +12v. check your alt-S fuse. If you got 12v to all wires, your regulator is prolly dead. It's the thing that the 3-wire connector plugs into.

    Before removing your alternator, disconnect the battery negative terminal and tuck it down so you don't weld wrenches to anything. Remove the intake boot & top of the airbox assembly and there's lots of room to loosen the belt and take the alt out. 12mm bolt up top, 14mm bolt and nut down below. A large 1/2drive ratchet helps for the bottom bolt.

    Before putting your alternator back in, use a bolt + nut and a socket or something to pull the sliding bushing forwards so that you can fit the dang thing back in between the mounting 'ears.' To tension the belt I use waterpump pliers to squeeze the alt over using the upper flange, and the end of the adjuster bar.
    - Brian


  4. #4
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    Thanks Brian! The brake and charge light were going on till I revved it over 5k, so I figured it was the alternator and pulled it out. I don't have an electrical tester unfortunately, feel like taking a look at it? I could drop it by this evening sometime.
    Last edited by Bangnscrape; 08-16-2010 at 01:39 AM.

  5. #5
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    that probably will work for a long time if you put some brushes in.
    - Brian


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    I have some spare new brushes free if u want a set. sorry didn't see you're on the island

    Ming

  7. #7
    narfy's Avatar
    narfy is offline gigidy gigidy... ooo right!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by tong88 View Post
    I have some spare new brushes free if u want a set. sorry didn't see you're on the island
    spencer is on the mainland quite regularly, iirc...
    Quote Originally Posted by Bangnscrape
    anyone know where the brushes are on this thing?
    it's the red/orange thing held in with 2 phillips screws...
    Last edited by narfy; 08-16-2010 at 01:56 PM.
    VZN185 - 32" BFG AT, OME suspension, ARB bumper, lightforce lights, TRD trans cooler, TRD exhaust, AMT sliders, budbuilt plates...
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    inside...




  9. #9
    narfy's Avatar
    narfy is offline gigidy gigidy... ooo right!!
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    yeah, replace the brushes...

    and your slip rings (where brushes wore grooves into) gently sand them with some fine sand paper until they look copper coloured again...
    VZN185 - 32" BFG AT, OME suspension, ARB bumper, lightforce lights, TRD trans cooler, TRD exhaust, AMT sliders, budbuilt plates...
    ZN6 - stock with HIDs and LEDs...
    fng@regencyauto.com

  10. #10
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    and the brown connector with the finned silver box = regulator assy. also held in with philips screws.

    That slip ring is in sorry shape, might be too worn out to fix. Try sanding it. Keep the sand debris out of the alt by doing it in the horizontal position.

    Put a brush set in and see what happens. The genuine ones come as a whole kit assembled to the holder. Aftermarket ones require soldering, and for the extra $8 I don't know anyone that would possibly bother.

    It's nice that you've posted up some pix. Good job!
    - Brian


  11. #11
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    Yes good job! Narfy - I'm no longer commuting to the city! Finally found a job here. . . 2 kids. . .oh I'll just make a thread about what I've been doing lately with pics of my new ride!

    I'll take apart my alt and check it out, see if it's only brushes. Before it stopped charging altogether it would charge up with the revs. I may have hooked things up wrong as well. . . it's for the mango so no charge light etc. which is maybe what the yellow wire is for?
    "mmmango!"

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    Thanks again! Better pics...

    Inside:



    fresh brushes:



    Old vs new:


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    Cleaned up the sliprings with some 2000 grit:



    A shot of the regulator assembly while I was at it:


  14. #14
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    Just got it back into the car, and the charge light didn't come on so it looks like that did the trick. I hope this comes in handy for other clueless hack D.I.Y. backyard mechanics like myself. Price wise this is a great savings if you compare it to a new Toyota alternator: $272 (I think) Lordco: $174 or a rebuilt model from Edmonds starter $100 since new brushes only cost $15. Thanks again for the great instructions Brian and Francis for the fresh factory bolt and suggestion on where to buy new bushes(Edmonds starter on Broadway).

  15. #15
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    lol just make sure the charge light works with the key on, engine off.
    - Brian


  16. #16
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    Will do. I guess this thread can be moved back to the reference section now.

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