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Thread: "Project Turquoise" aka Tommy's little peanut...

  1. #21
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    Your KE is the most beautiful blue I have ever seen on a car.

  2. #22
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    On a carb, fueling comes out of progression holes AT the throttle body at idle tip-in. I'm sure it will still work, but it might be a bit goofy at tip in with the back side of the throttle plate wetted down.

    1970 KE17 Project
    1969 KE10 Slider

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serendipity View Post
    Your KE is the most beautiful blue I have ever seen on a car.
    Thanks, I also like it a lot

    Quote Originally Posted by Cbergerud View Post
    On a carb, fueling comes out of progression holes AT the throttle body at idle tip-in. I'm sure it will still work, but it might be a bit goofy at tip in with the back side of the throttle plate wetted down.
    Yeah, I guess you're probably right about that... but it should at least keep those throttle plate clean as hell
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  4. #24
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    Well, I thought a little about that and got to the conclusion that I don't care about idle tip in conditions... lol

    Stand off injectors are made to have a better mixture and by throwing the injectors down in the stack, not only did it mess with the flow, but it would have very poor mixture. Must have had a brain fart when I thought about that...

    So I got back to the previous setup with the injectors out of the stack (stack that I don't have yet so use your imagination ) and improved on it a little





    A little alloy bracket mounted on a threaded rod. Yes it's really that simple, you may even say a little crude but it will allow me to play with injector height depending on the height of the stack I'll use and allow me to fine tune the spray in order to get the best mix possible

    I may have to work a little on where I'll mount this in order to stay out of the velo stack way, but the good thing is that it doesn't mess with the flow anymore!
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:51 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbergerud View Post
    I think you are going to have terrible economy and low end driveability with the injectors that far away and on the other side of the throttle plates. What works for a 10k rpm 150e might not be so great on a mild 3k. There have been some oem setups with staged injectors, with one set close to the head and one far away. I think thats how F1 did it too.
    If you look at a lot of old TBI setups, the injector(s) was(were) miles away from the intake port.

    VW 1.8L 4cyl in the old Golfs with the Monomotronic injection system had only one injector mounted about 2 inches above the throttle body, which was probably at least 6 inches away from each intake port.

    Old GM V8's with TBI had two injectors mounted where the carb once was, way far away from the intake ports.

    I've seen plenty of bikes with ITB's that had the injectors far away like tommy is proposing.

    The velocity stacks are a must.

    Lets hope it works!

  6. #26
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    Well, I would cast off the GM design as something worth following, it was terrible, but VW seems to have made a decent go of mono-jetronic. I'll retract my argument, haha.

    1970 KE17 Project
    1969 KE10 Slider

  7. #27
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    lol

    The bosch mono-motronic wasn't even jetronic!

    It was probably one of the simplest EFI setups i've ever seen from OEM.

    No MAP, No MAF.

    One injector.

    Non-crossflow cylinder head.

    TPS, ECT, IAT and CKP. Nothing more. (ok I think it had a knock sensor and an 02 sensor, but it doesn't need those to run).

    I would've loved to have seen the fuel and ignition maps on that thing!

    Still, goes to show you that it can be done. Thing had pretty good fuel economy on the highway to boot.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by mech View Post
    lol

    The bosch mono-motronic wasn't even jetronic!

    It was probably one of the simplest EFI setups i've ever seen from OEM.

    No MAP, No MAF.

    One injector.

    Non-crossflow cylinder head.

    TPS, ECT, IAT and CKP. Nothing more. (ok I think it had a knock sensor and an 02 sensor, but it doesn't need those to run).

    I would've loved to have seen the fuel and ignition maps on that thing!

    Still, goes to show you that it can be done. Thing had pretty good fuel economy on the highway to boot.

    Damn, that makes my own "simple" design looks overbuild and over enginnered next to that lol Oh and there will be some stack for sure... I just blew my yearly budget with the LSD/suspension so I'll have to wait a little, along with the whole "EFI ITB" project... but I'm not planning to actually turn that project into reallity before next year because of that. That and because I still need to complete the suspension swap, work on the body/floor and go through the K50 before slapping it underneat before moving on the engine building phase... I'm only toying with the EFI setup right now because I'm still waiting on parts for the suspension and I have nothing else I can start...

    But I think it's getting pretty close to a well thought out plan... if you guys have anymore input on the subject, go ahead. But as far as I'm concerned, I'm willing to give it a shot the way it is right now : MS running IAT, ECT, MAP and TPS; Short lower manifold that aim at a 30 or 40? angle up with no port for vaccum or nothing else; S12 hose type injectors mounted outside the velo stack with the fuel rail mounted below on the TBs and EFI rubber hose in between both...

    But thanks for all the input you guys gave me, made me think about it a lot and I think I'm on something right now
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  9. #29
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    Don't forget CKP!

  10. #30
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    Why would I need it?

    I can just wire the coil - for RPM signal to the ECU and just batch fire the injectors... the ignition will be run via an old school dist (probably from a 4K to get rid of the point fire I curently have)
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  11. #31
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    Your gonna change your points and condensor in the distributor to a electronic setup with a hall effect sensor?

    Then you could definitely use that as your RPM input to the megasquirt.

  12. #32
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    Yep, the 4K-C out of starlet already use an electronic distributor with an external ignitor. Just a matter or sourcing one and changing the coil... much better and accurate than point type (and no maintenance associated with) and a lot easier to fit than COP or wasted spark... although a lot less "tunable" than the later systems...
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  13. #33
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    Simple, reliable, good.

    What type of sensor is it? Hall effect or inductive?

  14. #34
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    No idea... probably a little early for hall sensors... I'll search the interwebz just out of curiosity... will post back the answer here later!


    *edit*

    Well just like I thought, reluctor type, probably too old for hall effect lol
    Last edited by tommy; 08-29-2012 at 09:54 AM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  15. #35
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    Well, the front suspension setup has changed again... lol

    I was going to order some T3 adapter today but receive a PM yesterday from a chap in AB that has a TE27 but I don't think it has any TE27 machanical things left on it...

    He was kind enough to dig through some box he had laying around and found a pair of TE27 knuckles... Since I'd rather help fund the BEAMS project than fund some big company, so I sent money westward and TE27 knuckles should be coming eastward probably next week.

    Thx again paul.

    All in all, that is the best setup (using OEM part) for the front suspension. It bolt in my stock balljoint but allow for the bigger 85mm bottom strut spacing to bolt on (mine is 80mm). And compared to the AE86 PS knuckles which are 115mm from balljoint to tie rod, the TE27 are 110mm for quicker steering.

    Oh well, now the plan "shouldn't" change again. I'm giving a class at UdeM for the following weekends so time to work on the car will be very thin till the middle of september... as soon as there is some REAL progress, I'll report back here
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  16. #36
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    Wow, what a month! Honestly, I haven't been busy like that in a long time... I had almost no time to work on the peanut.

    I received my knuckles a couple weeks ago...

    AE86 P/S in black, TE27 in grey..


    Apart from that, all the front suspension has been painted. Calipers are back together, even the pads are in. Bearing have been pressed in the hubs along with the seals. Tomorrow I'll go grab some new bolts to throw everything back together... would've been stupid to mount all that nicely painted stock with rusted bolts. So I should be able to bolt everything back soon enough... maybe have slap eveything on the car this weekend... depending on the weather.

    Then last sunday Mech dropped by on his way to Ottawa and dump his old TE21 rims with crappy tires. I didn't have anything 4x114.3 at home but now I can use those wheels to drop the car back on it's wheels after the suspension swap. That will give me some time to unmount tire on my Enkei and sell them to a fellow RX7 driver... so I can buy the 14x7 Watanabe from my friend.

    Oh and the plans for the engine have changed once again... I know, I know... again! But I'm trying to convince myself that anytime soon I'll stick to one of those plans...

    So I bought a ski-doo engine from a friend for about the price of the gas it cost him to deliver it to me and the beer it cost to pull it out lol





    It's an old bluetop that the last owner wasn't able to blow even while beating on it sideways every week. I had the "chance" to follow him a couple of times lately and that thing smoked more than an old Skandic on his last stretch, it smells "2 stroke" like nothing! Cyl 1, 2 and 3 have 180psi but the forth is pushing a big 70... So I grabbed the whole swap, missing only a RWD waterpump, alternator, flywheel/clutch and a T50... but I have 3 sets of cams, 2 complete bigport head, and about enough pieces to build a second engine

    So te plan is to rebuild it to OEM specs. Clean up the casting in the ports, polish the combustion chambers, deshroud the valves and balance the whole rotating assembly. So I'm waiting to open it up to find out if it'll stay 1587cc or if the cylinder walls are fubar and I'll have to go 1607 with 20over pistons. In an ideal world, it'll only need a hone and new rings, but we don't live in an ideal world...

    The idea behind all this is to drop in a stock bluetop that will make more power than the objectives I had for the 3K but that will make it with OEM Toyota reliability... and for 1/2 the price . I know, it's not original but at least it's not a F20, BEAMS or 20v... it still looks like and old crapy engine from an other era.

    So that's it, the K50 rebuilder planned for this winter is out the window... replaced by a 4A rebuild!
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:52 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  17. #37
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    4A yeah! We're in the same boat, keepin' it 1600cc!
    "mmmango!"

  18. #38
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    I'm not keeping it 1600cc, I'm bumping displacement by 1/3 over the little 3K's 1166cc

    Anyway, time for a little update.

    This morning was one of those grey saturday fall morning... so I decided to start stripping the little bluetop. First I only wanted to remove the wiring loom and label everything but as some of you guys might know, when a car enthousiast starts wrenching, nobody knows where it will end...

    So it went for 2 more hours until the intake was out, all the timing and timing cover component were also out, the cams were removed from the head and I pulled the head off...

    To start inspecting the block and to dig a little deeper on the compression problem on the forth cyl...



    The head is in freackin great shape... it'll need a hell of a good clean, but everything is very neat. As stated above, I wasn't expecting burned valve and all the valves are in nice shape.

    The first three cylinders are not so bad, the top of the cylinder is a little rough, but the honing marks are still clearly visible...



    ...but the forth is not so neat...



    It looks a lot worst than it is, their is no vertical marks like you'd expect from a broken ring but those upper horinzontal marks are pretty wide... but luckily they are not very deep. I'll wait to pull the pistons first, but I might have to go overbore... which is sad because the pistons are in very nice shape too...

    Stay tuned, I'll dig a little deeper in the short block as soon as I have a little time.

    Concerning the rest of the car, the whole front AE86 suspension is back together, all painted up and assembled with new hardware. As soon as the weather improve a bit, I'll try to throw everything on the car.
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:53 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  19. #39
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    Well, I went along with the short block tear down but didn't go very far...

    I removed the crank pulley in about 30 sec with a flywheel puller but the damn timing belt sprocket was seized in rust pretty badly... badly enough that after 2h of heating with torch and quenching in penetrating oil and doing it again, I had to finaly remove the damn thing with cold chisel.. and a hell of a lot of elbow grease (and BFH apps)... here is what's left of the damn sprocket!



    I don't really care for the sproket since I have a couple left overs but in my mad "striking the damn thing with a BFG" I dinged the crank a coupel of times, nothing serious and ui's all in the aera under the sproket so outside of the oil seal area so no leakage should happen after this, but I still feel bad for beating the crap of the poor old engine like that...

    Oh and on the bright side of things, I let the the #4 cyl soak in ATF for a week and after cleaning it out, my bore gauge can't even see a diff in diameter difference... hell my finder just barly catchs the marks on the #4 cyl wall.... so after aller, I can probably save it from goint overbore and reuse the stock piston (which are in pretty damn great shape)... I'll wait to see the look from underneat, but if it looks as decent as from the top, that'll be the plan.

    Stay tuned for the next update which should happen after the whole bottom end tear down is over... if those damn gremlins stop shoving **** my way!
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:55 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  20. #40
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    Update!



    And my new 2 ton press to help get rid of those pesky 40 year old bushing...

    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:55 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

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