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Thread: "Project Turquoise" aka Tommy's little peanut...

  1. #41
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    Nice press!!
    Get those ae struts in there!

  2. #42
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    Thx paul, it's called ingenuity... or poor guy that doesn't own a press :P

    Anyway, I've been so busy lately it's not even funny... I should paint the LCA, tension rod and top plate tomorrow since I'm supposed to be running a lot of stat test and I have a lot of down time in between... so...

    But the rest is already assembled and ready to go, I'll try to take some pictures of the AE and KE strut next to each other... it's not really funny when stock AE86 brakes look like a big brake kit
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  3. #43
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    Well, I think that'll end up being the longest suspension swap in history...

    I received my top plate yesterday and when I opened the box, I realized that they did not come with the upper spring perch (I assumed they came with since I didn't find a way to by those on rockauto...)

    So I had to reuse the KE ones... but they needed some cleaning and painting. So I got as far as I could while the paint was drying...



    Now I only need to take out the torque wrench and put some cutter pin in there... apart from that, the hub/disk are mounted on the spindle and the caliper and brackets are bolted on the struts. As soon as the paint dries on the spring perch, I'll slap those on with the coils and I'll only have 5 bolt per side to get all that back together on the car. Don't dispair... I'm getting there lol

    Oh and by the way, the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing that came with the car are complete crap... I'll take the rear leaf bushing dimension and order some whiteline ones and get myself a complete set for the front in order to replace those piece of ****... ES ones are going in the trash because that's the only place they belong. If you need some bushings, do yourself a favor and pay a little extra but DO NOT buy those crappy ones.
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:56 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  4. #44
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    Well, I'm finaly done with it!

    I'll only need to bring out the LCA once I get some quality bushing to press in there... the worst part of all was bolting the top plate on the strut tower. Was tighter than a virgin and the strut bar wasn't really helping out.



    Everything is either new or rebuilded and freshly painted... I just need to refresh the undercoating so it doesn't look all ****ty. I think I'll use bedliner, after seeing what mythbusters could do witht that, I think it'll be up to the task

    Oh yeah... upgrade?



    But now the sad part...



    Thanks mech for your stock TE21 wheels, but they look sad compared to the enkei... I'll need to take care of that soon! Oh and even if the coils are TRD 6kg lowering coils, the car didn't drop a mm, probably due to the fact that the AE86 front must weight a good 250lbs more, the coil must not compress enough... oh well, the 4A-GE weight should help in taking care of that issue

    Oh and something strange but good came out of this, I went from something aroung 3? or positive camber to 0.5? or negative camber... and it's a hell of a lot stiffer in the front. Now for the wheels, I think I'll try to grab some 14 or 15" to fill the wheel gab instead of cutting the coils and slamming the car.
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:57 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  5. #45
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    Awsome.
    those old brakes are so small!

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulcorolla View Post
    Awsome.
    those old brakes are so small!
    Yup, 8" non-vented FTL hahah

    So the rear end is out...



    I'll be able to swap it out for a 6.38" in order to use my bearing/brake that I bought for the TE... and the TRD LSD

    Oh and the leaf packs are out so I'll be able to dearch it and add one or two other leaf in there...

    Stay tuned!
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:57 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  7. #47
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    I love those enkies, just please lower that car soon!
    "mmmango!"

  8. #48
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    Enkeis are for sale... 13x6 et+12... only problem is they are 4x110. If their is any takers here, i can make a deal on them, they are very very clean.

    But don't you worry, it will get lower I'll drop the rear first : dearch the leaf and stiffen it with a leaf or two (maybe add a little block, but I'd like to run without if I can) then I'll match the ride height up front by cutting the TRD coil... that's right!

    Oh and I forgot to show you guys the conditions of the stock KE knuckles... pretty scary if you ask me.



    I don't know who did it and why, but I guess someone wanted to swap in an AE/TE suspension and tried to redrill the knuckles... I prefer my way thanks again paul!

    I just hope I won't find any other suprises like that...
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 05:59 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  9. #49
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    That's fine! Looks like Oem holes!!! )

  10. #50
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    Well, here is the story of my T50... I traded it for the rear polyeurethane bushing I had bought for my TE to the guy that bought it. When I picked up the tranny, the guy wasn't home and it was pouring rain. The thing was wrapped in 3 plastic bags so it stayed dry but it wasn't the best deal. First, the damn thing was stuck in 1st... I told the guy that I would only trade with a tranny that turns without making awful noise and shift through all the gears. Obviously, the guy didn't care about that. Second, it was missing the yoke. I have a bunch of 20 spline for early T and 21 for W tranny, but no late 22 spline yokes... dammit again.

    Well, I bit the bullet and started investigating if their was anything to do with the damn thing. I started removing the extension housing to see if it wasn't simply a case of misaligned shift linkage but the damn thing didn't want to cooperate one little bit...


    Rotten bolt was seize to the extension housing and since I couldn't move the shifter's linkage, I couldn't even think about lifting the case out... out came the mig


    After removing it, I was afraid to move the shift forks, I could with a hammer blow, but I was afraid that something was stuck on the gear selector side. So I opened it up and nothing. I had to use a brass punch and BFH'ed the damn 1st shift fork into neutral position. I ripped everything from the case and when I got to the damn rod, I realized what went wrong. Some water leaked through the top of the tranny where there is a little metal plate that hide the spring and ball that serve as locating pin in the shift forks for them to not pop out of gear. The water simply got on the shift fork rods and made them rust, which prevented the rod from sliding freely. I BFH'ed them out of there, lightly sanded the surface rust and polished them and now they slide like daddy in mommy. Problem solved!

    Apart from that the tranny is prestine. Bearing are all good, no play and no noise. Gears are perfect and all synchro are more than acceptable. So as soon as the case in cleared from 25 years of dirt and crap, I'll slap everything back in there and call it a day!

    Meanwhile, here is what my work table looks like


    Other problem solved, I finaly swapped my diff with a local member here who builds mini legends. He was looking for a small Toy diff and gave my a very clean TE2X 8 bolt S type (6.38"), which has the same spring perch as mine and the same total width, which is almost 3" narrower than a AE86 housing. It came with axles retaining plate, bearing and seal in perfect condition (I had brand new ones, but I'll problably save them for somwhere down the line. I also got 2 whole set of 9" brakes, back plate and all the hardware, so I got more than a complete axle. And I also got a neat surprise. I was expecting a 4.1:1 two pinion diff from some automatic corolla (since they almost all uses that) but here is what I got:



    9/37... 4.11:1, alright, we won't call home because of the gear ratio difference between that and a 10/41 4.1:1 but the 4.11 has less teeths which are a little bigger than it's little brother which makes it a little tougher

    The only problem is I that I have no idea where this ratio comes from (maybe a late tercel 4x4 AL25, but I'm not even sure) so I'll try to take care of it... if that's even possible

    So while I was chatting with the guy, I told him the "tranny story" and he reached and grab a yoke and told me that he thought it came from a manual AE86 but he had no use for it...



    right on! An other piece of the puzzle found

    Lastly, I took advantage of this morning's sun to work on the car a little, prepare it for winter. I removed the seats so somewhere in january or febuary, when it'll be -40? outside, I'll just have to open the car's door and BFH the hell out of the floor for a minute. Should easily take care of the sound deadening and is cheaper than dry ice

    While at it, I took a couple pictures of the half-stripped car interior




    And I also took a picture of the area behind the rear seat to compare it to the TE31's

    TE31


    KE20


    The gas tank looks a lot smaller on the E2X, although I have no idea if it's a KE/TE difference. Overall, I like the frame layout of the E2X over the E3X. It's a lot cleaner, it looks a lot boxier and the shocks are mounted upright instead of being put at a silly angle under the gas tank
    Last edited by tommy; 12-17-2013 at 11:09 AM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  11. #51
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    Well the 4AG is fully stripped, I should bring out the micrometer anytime soon

    The guy who traded diff with me finally got it open. I was spot on on the ratio : 4.222:1 but he was able to confirm that it was a B type 5.7".

    So he wanted me to give him the rear driveshaft flange since the bolt pattern is realy weird and the center ring is a lot smaller than usual. So after work today I pulled the driveshaft from under the car to have ot stripped.

    Ones again, i'm very happy to swap the whole drivetrain from out of there... I don't think I can trust anything mechanical on that car. I pulled only 600ml of oil from the tranny and it was so thick, it looked like bunker fuel.

    Oh and have a look at my OEM tranny support... looks legit!



    So I stripped the whole driveshaft



    Yeah, same length as the housing!

    And I have an other problem, the 22 teeth yoke and rear flange are from an AE86 and the driveshaft is the KE's original.

    U-Joint comparo between AE86 and KE20


    The design is different, the KE's caps are held on using C-clip as the AE are "crimped on" and supposidly "non serviceable". But overall the caps dia is a little different on both cars with the AE86 ones being the biggest ones.


    So I'll have to oversize the driveshaft ear's holes to accept AE86 u-joint cap and get myself 2 aftermarket u-joint for AE to hybrid my KE driveshaft with the AE86 yoke and flange.
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 06:05 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  12. #52
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    Well, lots of boring stuff happened, so not a lot of pictures...

    Brought out the micrometer and took every mesurement possible on all the heads and cams I had laying around. Nicest head was chosen but the cam caps on the intake side had very small score marls. I ended up openng very slightly the oil clearance to get rid of the marks, did it on both cams for good measure. After micropolishing of the caps and cam journals, oil clearance is a little heterogenous between caps depending on the previous damage so it varies between 0.0019" et 0.0028" which is the upper limit of the range in the FSM... and pretty far from the max of 0.0039" anyway.

    The cams are mix and match so I'll have a complete valve clearance job to do once everything is back together but I took the time to measure the 48 shims I had and place them in a fishing box all labeled by thickness so it should help speed up the process.

    After finishing the cams and cam caps polishing I flipped the head around and brought out the dremel



    It's hard to see on the picture but the one on the left is almost done and the one on the right is stock. I completely blended the transition between machined area around the valve and the rough cast finish of the chamber. I also enlarged the area around the valves and oppened the chamber a little more around all valves so it is now flush with the cylinder bore. All the transition are completely smooth so no sharp edge are left for hot spot to form. I finished the surface with a wet sanding using 1000grain and completly polished the chamber is order to keep carbon deposit at bay. All 4 are now done and I'll now turn my focus on the ports. No cutting and/or reshaping will be done in the ports, just a sanding of the casting marks and blending of all transition between machined area and rough finished. I'll finish the intake with 80grit and completely polish the exhaust once again to keep carbon deposit away.

    While doing that, I had a couple of question going through my mind about the LSD. First the Ad when I bought it said it was a 1.5way, some said it should be a 2way but overall the amount of info on those 6.38 TRD LSD is almost none existant... well their is the definite anwser :



    Oh yeah!

    The rebuild kit according to the TRD catalogue I have here is the same number as a 6.7 so the friction plate should be identical... But my 6.38 is only using 2 friction plates per side instead of 4 like on the 6.7. Good thing is that a rebuild kit will give me enough friction plate to last 2 rebuild, but it will probably means that they'll burn 2 times faster... so I think I'll grab a rebuild kit soon just in case I need to open the damn thing next fall. Oh and for the smart ones, it was already a bitch to reclose the damn thing so stuffing 4 more plate in there is really impossible.
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 06:05 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  13. #53
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    The internals of that diff look identical to my factory rx7 lsd. i was going to either cut the ramps on the spider carrier smaller so it would be more aggressive and i could stick more plates in or surface grind the backside to make more room. very neat. i can almost guarantee they were made by the same manufacturer or copied.

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  14. #54
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    Here is the POS I bought for 300$ last week. Engine was supposed to knock so the PO stopped using it last summer, turns out the engine goes perfectly, it just has an exhaust rattle lol

    Anyway, the car is dead. A friend of mine took the exhaust manifold and wiper arms to go on his girlfriend's AE92, another took the wheels and tire to go on a tercel, someone took the hood trunk and rear light, I stole the fuel pump and assembly, all the zinc bolt from the inside... all in all it's now officially a bitch everyone raped it for parts

    But the real reason I bought that POS was for that other POS sitting under the hood... ugly 7A-FE


    Stupid engine... so yesterday I started ripping through it with some "circomstantial" beer... "Fin du Monde" translate to "End of the World"... lol


    Stupid slave cam setup but the inside looks neat for a 230,000km granny car


    Has a crank angle sensor, thing I didn't know existed on an A engine..


    And 5A cams...


    Anyway, nice piece of crap... so almost everything is gone in the scrap bin except that nice straight 8 cam that will make a very nice lamp


    to go with the ones I already have...


    And the gay crank along with the sissy rods that seams like made out of toothpicks tried running away before behind thrown in the scrap bin like the rest...


    But I decided to save them and make a nice coffe table out of them

    Anyway, apart from the "home decor" stuff, all I kept to use as "engine bits" were the buckets and shim (not that I have already enough, but shims are always nice to have around. I also kept the wiring so I can strip it and use it when I need to. But the only thing that will end up in the peanut is the engine bloc and oil pan since the 16v doesn't bolt and the 7A is half alloy so it's less heavy. I just need to weld a fitting to the lower steel section for the oil return line. The rest is officially in the scrap bin...


    Here is the nice tall deck A block



    With the alloy/steel oil pan


    Bearing are practicly new, automatic granny car will do that to your engine


    And the cylinders are really neat, a little polished on the exhaust side, but that's to be expected, nothing a nice light hone will not take car of.


    Oh and a friend also unloaded his garage in my car yesterday, I have a redtop flywheel, engine support brackets, stiffner plate, brand new 16v waterpump and thermostat and a lot of other small things

    So some of you might wonder why the heck I went through such trouble to get a 7A if I'm going to make a coffee table out of the stroker crank that came in it... well, the plan is to destroke the 7A with a 4A crank, retaining stock 4A dimension, but since the 7A bloc is 15mm taller, it will allow the use of 137.5mm rods instead of the 122mm that are stock on the 4A, thus turning the 1.58:1 rod/stroke ratio into 1.79:1, which will make the 4A even more "rev happy". My "special" rods should arrive between christmas and the new year, I'm looking forward to see how they'll fits the bluetop crank and pistons... oh and those rods should bring the piston 0.5mm above deck so it will also bump compression by something like 1 point (haven't done calculations yep but that's my educated guess) which is an other nice thing

    I'll keep you updated on the "talltop" or the "4A big block" which ever you guys want to call it
    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 06:09 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  15. #55
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    You've got to love the cold climate... or at leat use it. Took me under 25min this morning (-25?) to remove all the sound deadning inside the car
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  16. #56
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    Cool. Nice progress.
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  17. #57
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    Destroked 7A, very cool! I have one on an engine stand, waiting patiently for me to get on it.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by PandaCoupe View Post
    Destroked 7A, very cool! I have one on an engine stand, waiting patiently for me to get on it.
    Upon returning from Windsor next week, I might have a cheap alternative concerning the rods in such a setup... I'll wait to test fit them first, but if the measurements I got are accurate, they should be "almost" bolt-on... oh and they are OEM stuff, bought them for 30$ each

    to be continued...
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  19. #59
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    Neato!
    That's pretty cool, long rods are cool, and it's still a 4age!

  20. #60
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    I already have forged 7A Belfab H-Beam con rods but your idea to build a high rpm 'talltop' is very cool.

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