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Thread: "Project Turquoise" aka Tommy's little peanut...

  1. #121
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    tommy is offline Redneck engineer/machinist
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    Well, I may not be machinist and I may not have the tooling but it doesn't stop me from trying...







    For those who didn't notice, that's a 15in press-drill

    All for that...



    Where am I going with this? Crank pulley prototype... I told you guys I didn't trust crank mounted oil pump

    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 06:56 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommy View Post
    Where am I going with this? Crank pulley prototype... I told you guys I didn't trust crank mounted oil pump
    DRRRRRRRRRRYYYYYYYYYYYY SUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMPPPPPPPPP!

    Does this mean you'll be replacing the alloy bottom end with a flat plate (can you or does the crank interfere?) to make for lower center of mass?

  3. #123
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    Don't get too excited, I wanted to go drysump for all the added benefit but it's a lot of work, a lot of cash and a lot of added components to go wrong... maybe in the future but for now I'm staying wetsump. I'll just mod the lower pan to add an extra liter or two and will relocate the oil pickup in order to use a single stage external pump. The goal is to be able to underdrive the pump and keep it isolated form the crank nasty harmonics... while keeping things as simple as possible.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  4. #124
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    Wetsump or drysump then, this build is still super sweet. I'm dying to hear it run. What are you using for an oil pump? hydraulic motor?

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren View Post
    You're crazy.
    ....
    BCWORKS

  6. #126
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    have you considered a harmonic balancer

    1970 KE17 Project
    1969 KE10 Slider

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbergerud View Post
    have you considered a harmonic balancer
    Yep, but that won't change the fact that the pump will still be driven at crank speed. I calculated the displacement of the 7A pump to be around 3.1cc per rotation where a stock redtop pump pushes about 50% more. I'll be using a single stage pump rated over 6cc per rotation so by using a timing crank and cam gear I'll underdrive that pump 50% so it'll push the same displacement as my 7A pump at the same engine RPM... but it also means that when revving the engine to 10,000rpm the pump will only see 5000rpm so it won't tend to explode like all 4A pump being revved over 9000rpm

    Oh and you get the added bonus of popping the belt before startup and priming the whole oil system with a drill... plus the gears were free, the belt should cost around 20 or 30$ and the pump cost 250$... except mine was free
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  8. #128
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    Well, didn't find anything better to do with my old 8" solid disk than to scavenge them for part to finish the crank pulley



    Just need to assemble it all. I'll take some pictures just to show how it's done but not tonight.




    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 06:57 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  9. #129
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    Alright, the goal with the external pump is to KISS : "Keep It Simple Stupid". So I aim at having only one hose going from the oil pickup in the pan to the external pump and one other going from the external pump to the block. The easiest way of doing that is to try and use the stock oil system as much as possible. I gutted the rotor in my pump housing but will be using the housing to hold the crank seal and as an inlet to the oil system. I'll also use the stock oil pressure release valve to regulate the pressure as OEM. To do that, I'll use the 3/8BSPT fitting that was used to block the machining hole in the side of the pump and find a way to block the space in the housing between the rotor and the pressure release valve.



    To do that I recycled my old cheap spacer to machine an aluminum plug to fit in place



    And let the bugger chill in the freezer for the night.



    I then put the housing in the oven at 350? but if you're going to do that, leave less than 0.003" of interference between the plug and the hole... otherwise you'll end up with a welding job like me



    All that's left to do is machine the other side of the plug to allow the oil entering through the external fitting to reach the pressure release valve



    And that's it... I'm out of MAPP gas so I'll grab a bottle tomorrow and braze the crack... it sucks but at least it's on the good side and could've been wayyy worst.

    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 06:59 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  10. #130
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    Pretty standard corolla engine building here. Nothing to see folks.


    Yeah right.
    1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
    1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
    ? 1972 Celica race car

  11. #131
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    Yeah right :P

    Well sometimes you've got to take one step back before moving forward again : after bathing in oil for 20 years, their is no way to make the weld penetrate at all... so I'll start over with a "new-old" housing and leave less interference for it not to crack again.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  12. #132
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    Sooo answ3r was about to ship me a couple of 6.38 solid spacer and since he's a real nice guy, he's supposed to throw in an old oil pump so I can use the housing lets just hope that I don't crack that one too...

    So tonite I was a little pissed about it (more about the half day I lost trying to braze that crap together) and seeing all that aluminum rod slip on the casing and make a puddle on the floor didn't help it. So I recycled again, picked up that crap from the floor and made some "home casting" of a new 1/2 plug (to be machined to specs afterwards)



    It is less neat than the "redneck billet" one but down there no one will notice... and it'll do the job more than enough

    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 06:59 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  13. #133
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    Hey why don't you put a NPT plug in there instead of trying to do an interference fit ?

  14. #134
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    1 - There is no way to get the tap in place... even by grinding the inner ring, I'd have a hell of a time to align the thing and spin it there... let alone drill the hole first
    2 - I don't have a 3/8NPT tap or drill bit to go with it either

    Interference fit will do, 0.003" this time

    BTW, Thank for the oil pump buddy
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  15. #135
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    Well, I finished machining the plug and while waiting for the oil pump, I welded my modified crank pulley.

    First I drilled the disk that will serve as a belt guide.



    Then I spot welded it to the timing sprocket. I used 2 C-clamp to stop it from warping form the heat of the welding.



    Surface the thing to get it flat...



    ...and weld the ring made out the old brake disk on top of the cut crank pulley



    All that's left is to align it spot on and weld it through the inside. The "guide ring" was machined 1mm oversize to be filled by welding. The weld looks like crap but if you can weld that deep inside a 1inch tube, you're a better welder than I am... luckily, penetration is excellent and I made a second pass full heat almost no wire just to be sure.



    That's it, all that's left to do is electroplate it with zinc and send it to get balanced.


    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 07:01 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  16. #136
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    I don't know what I say. But I feel like I should say something.

    Get a lathe you weirdo.
    BCWORKS

  17. #137
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    Hahahaha, like I told anwser yesterday : the problem is space : my work shop is like 6x8... my shed is actually bigger. My mortgage is signed for 3 more years at a fixed rate of 2.99% so I'm sitting on it but after that I'm selling this house for profit and getting something with a nice big garage... then I'll follow your advise Warren... until then my press drill will also serve as a lathe, mill and surfacing tool :P
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  18. #138
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    All shinny !!!

    Last edited by tommy; 07-02-2013 at 07:02 PM.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  19. #139
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    Like a boss! you should've zinc'd your block too.

  20. #140
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    If it wasn't for the huge amount of electrolyte required I would have probably done it. I have 2 gallon of electrolyte ready so expect all the pulleys, brackets, and a lot more stuff to get the same treatment.
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

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