Serendipity's comprehensive AE86 5 speed swap.

[Serendipity]

In October 2010, I consulted with my Dad, the master mechanic, and I decided that I would like to retire my hardy 4 speed automatic for a more utile 5 speed transmission. As a pseudo-totalitarian, simply installing the necessary parts would not be enough; each part would have to be inspected for long-term use, be upgraded if proven upgrade units WERE available, and since I would have the opportunity to complete most of the project off the car, I wanted to protect and beautify the parts by a combination of plating, powder coating and painting. And so we began the witch hunt.

Being that the original T50 had over 200,000km, I knew it would need to have some internal parts replaced, but with our good friend Robert of EP importers in Nagasaki, we were able to source the best priced parts direct from Toyota Japan. They were cheaper than going through the local Dealership.

In realizing my own limits, I hired out the work I did not feel confident in doing myself. I did a lot of wrench turning, but by seeking professional help (hehe) this project came together quite well.

Completing an entire system at a time is exhaustive, but it's a comprehensive way to get everything the way you want it; no piece-meal or incomplete projects keeping you up at night.


PROJECT LENGTH OCT 2010-MAY 2012
Thanks Dad for your contribution, supervision and patience.


For helping me to find the parts, and for consultation, thanks be to:

Dugwillis
Warren
jma
Corolla Fiend
celica-fiend
JayWhit
Rasta Racer
Coldstar64
DiscoQuinn (Who needs to empty out his mailbox!)
Brian
Jeff Lange


Services & Parts Rendered

Victoria Powder Coat - Powder Coating... Duh!
Bullfrog Transmission - Transmission Rebuild
Key 2 Machine Shop - Resurfacing of Flywheel
LeJeune - Installation of Pedal, adjustment of the Brake Pedal, fabrication of the Clutch Line
Island Muffler and Brake - Exhaust work
Victoria Plating - Anodizing of Nuts and Bolts
EP Importers - Toyota OEM and TRD Performance Parts



PARTS LISZT AND PICTURES:

Transmission
T50 transmission w/ GTS Bell Housing - Used, Powder coated Gun Metal

Transmission Internals Needed
Input Shaft 33301-12010
Input Shaft Bearing 90365-30020
Rebuild Kit (with Bearings, Syncros, Gaskets and Seals) Kingomatic BK244-WS
Shift Fork 3rd/4th 33212-14010
Sleeve 3rd/4th 33364-14010
Shift Fork 5th/Rev 33214-14010
Sleeve 5th/Rev 33395-26010
Speedometer Gear (19 tooth) 33403-19135
Reverse Switch 84210-10051

Clutch Related
Clutch Cover - Used, OEM
Clutch Pressure Plate - Beck Arnley
Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts (X6), Generic M8X1.25
N.B. We'll be replacing these with OEM bolts when we swap the engine.
Clutch Fork - Used, Powder Coated Black
Clutch Fork Clips - Used, OEM
Clutch Fork Boot 31126-20070
N.B. We're keeping the OEM clutch while the 4A-C remains in the car.

Flywheel
OEM Flywheel - Used, Resurfaced
Pilot Bearing 90363-12003-77
Release Bearing - Nachi 40TRBC07-27SB
Release Bearing Hub - Used
Flywheel Bolts (X6) 90105-10042


Hydraulic System
Master Cylinder - Beck Arnley
Master Cylinder Clevis 90240-08006
Master Cylinder Clevis Pin 90468-16142
Master Cylinder Clevis Bushing 90386-08002
Master Cylinder Clevis Washer 90206-08001
Slave Cylinder - Beck Arnley
Slave Cylinder Soft Line 90947-02440
Hose Bracket Used, OEM
Hose Clip 96991-10080

Clutch Pedal
Clutch Pedal & Bracket - Used, Powder coated Black
Clutch Pedal Hinge Bolt with Washer 90080-11553
Clutch Pedal Hinge Collar Bushing X2 90386-13007
Clutch Pedal Hinge Collar 90387-10003
Clutch Pedal Pivot Bolt 90101-10015.
Clutch Pedal Rest Bolt 90101-10369
Clutch Pedal Rest lock nut 94110-51000
Clutch Pedal Rest Bolt Cushion (X2) 90541-06008
Clutch Pedal Return Spring 90507-14003
Clutch Pedal Foot Pads (X2) 31321-12030
N.B. Same part number as the 5speed Brake Pedal Pad

Mounting Parts & Hardware
OEM Transmission Crossmember - Used OEM, Powder coated Black
Trans Crossmember to Mount Bolts (X2) 91661-41018
Cusco Transmission Mount 116 912 A
Transmission Mount to Extension Housing Bolts (X2) 916912-B1020 X2
Slave Cylinder Mount Bolts (X2) 91611-B0825
Bell Housing Bolts (X2-75mm long) 90119-12042
Bell Housing Bolts (X2-55mm long) 90119-12168

Shifter & Related
TRD Short Shifter PTR04-20850-02
TRD Shift Knob PTR04-00000-05
Shifter Housing Rubber Boot 33555-12090
Shifter Gasket 33584-20010
Shifter Bushing 33548-14010
Shift Boot - Used, OEM
Secondary Shift Boot - Used, OEM

Gear Oil
Motul, Gear 300, SAE 75W90, 100% synthetic, 2L

Driveline
GTS Intermediate Shaft - Used, OEM
OEM Centre Bearing - Used, OEM
N.B. This part will be upgraded once our GTS rear end project is completed.




And now for the pictures:

INTERNAL PARTS


CLUTCH & RELATED


SHIFTER

[Serendipity]

rebuilt

[Serendipity]

ADDITIONAL TOPICS TO BE DISCUSSED:


DIFFICULTY IN SOURCING A "T-51" REBUILD KIT

Problem
Naturally, my first stop in search for a T-50 rebuild kit was Toyota who quoted me around $800. Thinking I could do better -haven't we all thought the same thing about a relationship?- I fired off an email to Robert at EP Importers. His quote was around $650 for an OEM Toyota kit he would piece together. I had a suspicion that I could find the kit for cheaper non-OEM kit if I was willing to do some digging, so I hopped onto my computer and started searching.

I found that the rebuild kit had the non-OEM designation of "T-51". There were several web based business selling transmission rebuild kits, but none of them showed any stock. I called the few that appeared to, but sadly they told me that their stock was also at zero. I asked them where they got their kits from and they all said Transtar; a company whose head office was in Texas. I called Transtar, who referred me to their Canadian head office, who then referred me to their regional orifice in Delta, BC; known as Kingomatic.

First of all, the manager told me that they only sold kits to parts stores, so I went into Lordco to place the order. The kit was $400. After paying my 50% deposit, I received a phone call 3 days later to confirm that they would could not sell me the kit as it was missing parts; they didn't know which ones, nor did they ask! So I placed another phone call to Kingomatic and asked which part was missing; it was the input shaft bearing. By this time, I had received call backs from the other parts shops I had inquired about the kit. Napa's quote beat Lordco at $350, but was still missing the input shaft bearing.

Solution
I pleaded with the manager at Kingomatic, saying that without this rebuild kit I couldn't complete my restoration project, and that I would still be willing to purchase it without the missing bearing. I guess all the phone calls they had received were starting to annoy them so they conceded to sell me the kit. I opted to buy the input shaft bearing from Toyota in exchange for an ass raping.

Conclusion
Outside of Toyota, there is generally NO availability of a "T-51" rebuild kit, reasonably priced or otherwise.



INSTALLATION OF THE CLUTCH PEDAL

Disclaimer.
As I am not a mechanic, I will only provide you with the information necessary to source the parts you need to complete the job. If you are not mechanically-inclined or are a moron, hire a shop to do this work for you. Haha.

This is a fairly simple process, provided that you have an OEM AE86 clutch pedal assembly. In the automatic AE86 firewall, there is a large rubber grommet to the left of the brake booster covering the hole for the Master Cylinder's piston. The holes for the clutch assembly bolts were also pre drilled at the factory, therefore no drilling is required to install the clutch pedal.

Furthermore, to triangulate the pedal assembly, all you need to do is fasten a nut and bolt through the top of the pedal bracket to the bottom of the dashboard. Again, all the necessary holes are already there. You can choose to weld the sections together as some senior members of this forum prefer to do.

[Serendipity]

OEM SETUP OF AUTOMATIC BRAKE PEDAL VS MANUAL TRANSMISSION SETUP

In an automatic AE86, the brake pedal is twice as wide as in those who came from the factory with a manual transmission. Therefore you need to either replace the brake pedal with one from a manual transmission car, or remove the metal pad and cut it to size. It is the same size as the metal pad on the clutch pedal.




USING A T50 INPUT SHAFT AS A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL

If you happen to have spare input shaft available, you can use it in place of a clutch alignment tool. It is also quite useful in seating the pilot bearing after you have pressed it into place. Please see the supporting picture.





USE OF EXTENDED BELLHOUSING BOLTS FOR EASIER TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION

When my Dad was apprenticing, he had to work on a lot of engines and transmissions on his own. "Necessity is the Mother of all Invention" they say. In order to have an easier time installing RWD transmissions, he welded extensions onto bolts with the same thread as used to attach the bell housing to the engine.

By screwing them in from the Transmission side to the Engine (so that they pointed towards the rear of the car), he could slide the transmission into place without worrying too much about lining up the input shaft. We used the same concept for our Transmission swap. (Left), the extended bolts in the right-hand corner. (Right), the extended bolt to scale. Another bonus is that the weight of the transmission will sit on the bolts, and NOT the input shaft.




WIDENING OF TRANSMISSION TUNNEL

The automatic transmission tunnel is much narrower then that of the five-speed. Therefore to install the five-speed and have enough room for the shifter to move around you need to widen the tunnel. I'm currently working on making a template available in PDF format that would allow someone doing a five-speed swap to print out the template, lineup the bolt holes for the automatic shifter, and trace an OEM sized hole.

AUTOMATIC AE86


MANUAL AE86
(Photo Courtesy of the Internet)
Attachment 10756



NEUTRAL START SWITCH; HOW TO GET YOUR CAR TO START!

Once you have everything hooked up you're going to find that you can't start your car and wonder why. The reason is because you'll find on the engine harness on the driver's side there is wiring going to the neutral start switch of the automatic transmission which is no longer a closed-circuit.

To solve this problem you'll need to take the harness from the neutral start switch and connect the black and red leads together, then plug that connection back into the wire loom. This will close the circuit and you will now be able to start your car.

[JOshua a]

So pertty

[clay72]

ADDITIONAL TOPICS TO BE DISCUSSED:

-Installation of clutch pedal.
-Difficulty in sourcing a "T-51" rebuilt kit.
-Automatic brake pedal VS Standard brake pedal.
-Use of input shaft as a clutch alignment tool.
-Use of extended Bell Housing Bolts for installing transmission.
-Widening of transmission tunnel.
-My choice of gear oil. Why I am wanting to change to Redline brand.
-Neutral Start Switch
-Reverse lights

Serious?

[Warren]

He likes his stuff proper guy.

[clay72]

He has a lot more time on his hands than I.

Not saying i don't take the time to do things right, but to sit down and write about standard details of the job... Thats more than i could be asked to do.

[Jeff Lange]

Cusco Transmission Mount PART NUMBER NEEDED

Cusco Part Number 116 912 A

Bell housing Bolts X4 PART NUMBER NEEDED

90119-12042 x 2 (75mm long)
90119-12168 x 2 (55mm long)

TRD Short Shifter 00602-3301-002

Incorrect part number.

TRD Japan Part Number 30301-AE802
Old TRD USA Part Number 00602-30301-002
Current TRD USA/Canada Part Number PTR04-20850-02

TRD Shift Knob PART NUMBER NEEDED

TRD Japan Part Number MS204-SP004
TRD USA/Canada Part Number: PTR04-00000-05

Bolt 90101-10015. I can't remember what this part was for...

Clutch pedal pivot bolt.

[RandyCorolla]

this is something else man! Kudos for getting it done!

[Serendipity]

Thanks to Dr. Lange for the missing part numbers.

[clay72]

Then prof Lange one ups the OCD-age! Haha awesome. This should be put in a book or something. TSMs got nothing.

[Dugwillis]

Cool

[aecacia]

It makes my heart sing when I see how well my old car is being taken care of

[Serendipity]

STARTER ISSUES

Once you've installed the transmission you'll notice that the starter no longer fits. That's because you have to replace the front part of the starter's housing with one from a 5 speed starter. The pinions are the same just not the front part of housing. Not sure where to find one? Contact your local electrical rebuild shop. They should have a donor in their rebuild stock.


REVERSE LIGHTS, AND HOW TO GET THEM TO FUNCTION

Similar to the neutral-start switch modification you'll have to modify the existing wiring coming from the neutral-start harness. The OEM wiring is connected to a white plug. Remove the Neutral Start wiring (Red & Blue). It's taped to the Reverse Light Wiring (White & Black). Attach two female terminals to the remaining wire ends; they will plug into the reverse sensor on your transmission. Use the OEM heatshield for the wiring and complete your project. Your reverse lights will now work.




MY CHOICE OF A GEAR OIL. WHY I AM THANKFUL TO MOTUL, BUT WANTING TO CHANGE TO REDLINE

I'm using a Motul Gear 300, SAE 75W90, 100% synthetic, and I find that the transmission isn't shifting as smooth as I was hoping. This issue is further exacerbated by the fact that I'm also running a short shifter.

After speaking to Brian, I am in favour of trying a Redline Gear Oil on my next trans fluid change. He mentioned that it assists in shifting. Motul makes a really good product, but I feel the fluid is better used in motorsports. It shifts like butter when my trans is heated up enough, but it takes at least 20 minutes of driving to get my fluid temps up to this point.

I am, however, able to feel through the shifter when I'm matching the engine's revolutions ideally, so my current setup is teaching me how to shift this transmission.

[Rastaracer]

Needz moar pics!

[Serendipity]

CLUTCH SOFTLINE BRACKET

To securely connect the clutch hard-line and softline you'll need the bracket from a manual AE86. It mounts to the passenger side frame rail.

(Photo courtesy of the Internet)




EXHAUST PIPE MODIFICATION

In thinking ahead to an eventual Dual Cam 4A Swap you'll probably be using a bell housing with the Clutch Fork on the Passenger Side. With this set up the stock 4AC exhaust pipe coming from the manifold will no longer clear because the slave cylinder is now in the way.

To get things running correctly you will need to fabricate a custom pipe coming from the manifold to the catalytic converter. At this point it would also be a wise idea to replace your 25-year-old catalytic converter. Don't forget to weld a heat-shield onto the pipe to protect the slave cylinder from the exhaust temperatures.

I decided to replace the inch and a quarter diameter exhaust pipe with a two-inch diameter pipe. It resulted in a slightly quicker throttle response when matched up with a High-Flow Catalytic Converter, and High-Flow Muffler.

[Chewy]

Nice writeup

[Serendipity]

Needz moar pics!

I know that's not what you meant Trevor! Haha. I have supporting pictures that I will add shortly!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Serendipity]

I ALMOST FORGOT

I almost forgot to mention that you'll also need 6 bolts to secure the Clutch Pressure Plate to the Flywheel.