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Thread: Fuel Pump Not Priming When Ignition On AE86

  1. #21
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    Cold start system fault is likely your problem.

    Fuel pump doesn't prime with key on iirc.
    - Brian


  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    Cold start system fault is likely your problem.

    Fuel pump doesn't prime with key on iirc.
    The fuel pump prime is for the map sensored 4age, this has the AFM. I tested and all the electrical is fine, I also put the ecu in diagnostic mode and it has no codes. It just the motor has way too low of compression to keep idling and starting since it only has 110psi all across.

  3. #23
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    I'm confused. What is your question?
    - Brian


  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    I'm confused. What is your question?
    youre not the only one
    Owned too many different modified toyotas to list LOL


  5. #25
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    q: why does it take my car so long to start?
    a: most likely your cold start sensor is ****ed, it's that brown one that sticks out of your waterneck, burrow a working one and swap it, takes 5 seconds

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by billiam View Post
    Also there is no ECU control of the relay so there will be no key on prime like most efi systems.
    ...
    - Brian


  7. #27
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    I agree with the (brown) cold start temp sensor as a starting point. You can check it in 10 seconds with a multimeter. If it is dead, the cold start injector won't fire, which you can also easily check with a multimeter. This is a common issue with the old Toyota EFI with AFM.
    A really quick test (not recommended more than once) is to pull off an intake vacuum line and spray a bit of Quick Start into the intake when it's cold and being cranky. If it fires right away, your enrichment system (cold start) is not working properly.
    A clicking relay usually comes from low input voltage or a bad ground. It will also not click while the car is running, as it does not turn the FP off when the car is running. It is either on or off. You have a FP regulator in the line that returns the fuel to the tank. You can also test the relay with a multimeter.
    As long as your compression tester tells you 110 across all 4 cylinders (+/- 10 psi) it is not the source of your problem.
    Don't convince yourself of the source of the problem without doing the tests and analysis.
    Dentman
    2002 & 2005 Capital City Speedway ministock champion
    2- 3rd gen Celica Stock Cars; 85 Celica GTS Convertible
    3-7th Gen Celica road and race cars
    86 Cressida wagon with a w58 swap
    Many Toyota Trucks

    "It's better to be in the race for a second than to spectate forever." St Merlin

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dentman View Post
    I agree with the (brown) cold start temp sensor as a starting point. You can check it in 10 seconds with a multimeter. If it is dead, the cold start injector won't fire, which you can also easily check with a multimeter. This is a common issue with the old Toyota EFI with AFM.
    A really quick test (not recommended more than once) is to pull off an intake vacuum line and spray a bit of Quick Start into the intake when it's cold and being cranky. If it fires right away, your enrichment system (cold start) is not working properly.
    A clicking relay usually comes from low input voltage or a bad ground. It will also not click while the car is running, as it does not turn the FP off when the car is running. It is either on or off. You have a FP regulator in the line that returns the fuel to the tank. You can also test the relay with a multimeter.
    As long as your compression tester tells you 110 across all 4 cylinders (+/- 10 psi) it is not the source of your problem.
    Don't convince yourself of the source of the problem without doing the tests and analysis.
    Dentman
    so if its cold, how many ohms will it have when I probe it at the 2 pins? and dose it go open when its warm/hot?
    Last edited by 4age-ftw; 01-24-2013 at 01:23 PM.

  9. #29
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    Someone here with an AE86 and a BGB should be able to answer this spec question for you.
    On the Celica, the BGB says STA-STJ (two pins in the switch, STA is the powered pin) 20-40 ohms below 30C and 40-60 ohms above 40C. Pin STA to ground (switch body) is 20-80 ohms.
    Dentman
    2002 & 2005 Capital City Speedway ministock champion
    2- 3rd gen Celica Stock Cars; 85 Celica GTS Convertible
    3-7th Gen Celica road and race cars
    86 Cressida wagon with a w58 swap
    Many Toyota Trucks

    "It's better to be in the race for a second than to spectate forever." St Merlin

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