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Thread: 3/4 in rear swaybar using polyurethane bushings

  1. #1
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    3/4 in rear swaybar using polyurethane bushings

    Hello before the next competition round I hope to do more suspension tuning...

    I've had an ADDCO rear swaybar before but for some reason I didn't put it back in when I put the car back together. Right now it's on a stock swaybar and the car's handling could be improved/tuned.

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    As you can see it's got a bit more lean than I prefer in the rear at the moment and I want to use the ADDCO swaybar I had on before but misplaced the hardware I used years ago.

    I remember using the OEM u-shaped bracket and drilled out some TRD bushings to fit the 3/4 bar before but I'm wondering if anyone has actually successfully used aftermarket brackets that fit proper polyurethane bushings and what modifications had to be made on the axle side.

    Here's some specs from the Energy Suspension catalog.

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    On a side note, what improvements can be made to the rear end links?
    Last edited by Jover; 06-12-2013 at 08:18 PM. Reason: because I'm a grammar nazi, but don't care much for punctuation nor capitalization as much
    JOVER
    F20C Powered 1985 AE86 Corolla GT-S Coupe | 4AGE 1986 AW11 MR2 Fully Loaded! Black on black on black

  2. #2
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    If you're running an AE86 rear end, the rear swaybar bushing bracket from an MA47 will work with a slight modification. The 3/4 ID energy/prothane poly bushings will fit by grinding the bracket to make it "slimmer". Make sure to clean up the edges so they don't bite into new bushing.

  3. #3
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    Goodbye traction. Not a great idea.
    Most guys take the sway completely off.


    RETIRED

  4. #4
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    You don't really need front or rear bars if you have the right spring/shock combo.

  5. #5
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    Seems the common setup is to bump up your front sway and leave the rear alone, or remove it entirely like Junglematic says

  6. #6
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    Thanks! I'll try changing dampening on the shocks.
    JOVER
    F20C Powered 1985 AE86 Corolla GT-S Coupe | 4AGE 1986 AW11 MR2 Fully Loaded! Black on black on black

  7. #7
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    What they said
    I am your 4ajesus

  8. #8
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    +1 for remove
    Husky Situations

  9. #9
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    Why....Not exactly sure. I think it's to do with the solid rear and the jacking you'll get. On IRS you want a bar to keep both sides down...but with a solid rear it's going to do it by itself. I think with a bigger rear bar it just way over stiffens and makes it loose grip.


    RETIRED

  10. #10
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    Bizingo

    Yeah that's a word now.
    BCWORKS

  11. #11
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    sorry to highjack this thread, just wondering if you have any links to info on removing the rear bar. It's not that i don't believe you, i would just like to read up more on it. The only discussions i can find have to do with drifting and not grip.

    Club ONEtwoNINE Track Days
    2013 TRACK DAYS
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  12. #12
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    Don't need links to ehow.
    Just unbolt it and reap the rewards.

    You would put a bigger front bar on to reduce oversteer no?
    If you agree, then removing the rear will also reduce oversteer.
    Simple
    And yes drifters like to reduce oversteer. It's bad, makes you spin out.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tryte View Post
    sorry to highjack this thread, just wondering if you have any links to info on removing the rear bar. It's not that i don't believe you, i would just like to read up more on it. The only discussions i can find have to do with drifting and not grip.
    This thread on CASC was started by a member on these boards who does autocross (dhall0519), if you go through it he is advised to remove his sway bars (by max attack, a prominent member on these boards).

    I've talked with him and he says after a learning period where he had to get used to how the car felt, his times got significantly faster. He still runs without sway bars to this day and consistently does very well at events.
    I hate Corollas but I don't think I can do better with anything else

  14. #14
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    rastaracer taught me about sway bars. unbolt the links and drive, leave the sway bars in, see how you like it. fuk what people say

    I run 8/6 no rear sway bar and 6/4 cusco sways on my daily

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger Happy View Post
    This thread on CASC was started by a member on these boards who does autocross (dhall0519), if you go through it he is advised to remove his sway bars (by max attack, a prominent member on these boards).

    I've talked with him and he says after a learning period where he had to get used to how the car felt, his times got significantly faster. He still runs without sway bars to this day and consistently does very well at events.
    So you're suggesting removing both front and rears? I'm running 9/6.5 springs so im pretty sure its stiff enough now.

    Club ONEtwoNINE Track Days
    2013 TRACK DAYS
    MOSPORT DDT - JULY 12

  16. #16
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    Interesting thread. I've been meaning to remove the rear sway bar on my car for autoslalom for quite sometime. I run ~7kg/mm in front and 4.7 in the back (wanted to have not quite the 8/6 combo).

    Beneficial for track days too? Must try out....
    - Project Hachi-Horror. The eternal money pit.

  17. #17
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    Odd. I run super stiff sways front and rear. Whitelines and heim joint end links.

    My car has great grip. So much that I wish I had more rear bar at times.

    Andrew
    1984 SR-5 (GT-S converted)
    1995 4x4 Tacoma
    Incomplete list of truck mods at
    http://www.parksoffroad.com/Our%20Ri...cab%20taco.htm

  18. #18
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    Andrew what tire sizes do you run? Spring rates? This is beams car?
    BCWORKS

  19. #19
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    185 & 195/60R14
    Cheap ****ties at 48-55psi depending on the tire/sidewall.
    6k rear, thinking about going to 7k.
    Yep, Beams car.

    Andrew
    1984 SR-5 (GT-S converted)
    1995 4x4 Tacoma
    Incomplete list of truck mods at
    http://www.parksoffroad.com/Our%20Ri...cab%20taco.htm

  20. #20
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    This is all silly. Saying one way is better than another in all circumstances.

    Just try it with, and without. Learn what it does, and apply that information.

    And Paul i don't agree with this:

    You would put a bigger front bar on to reduce oversteer no?
    If you agree, then removing the rear will also reduce oversteer.
    Simple
    That's blanket statement like that does not work. If you have understeer because you aren't working that outside tire enough you would want to have less roll resistance, not more. It depends on the reasons why you have that understeer/oversteer to start with. Depends on spring rates, front and rear ride heights, weight distribution, allignment settings... blahblah****ingblah.

    sorry, bit drunk. There is no replacement for testing. Not even E-geniuses like all of us.
    1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
    1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
    ? 1972 Celica race car

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