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Thread: Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

  1. #1
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    I was going overboard with my 4AC. I had rebuilt every part of it except for the bottom end, and was seriously considering Cams and Jetting my Carbs. Enough was enough. It was time for a change. I knew which engine I wanted under my hood, and I knew why.

    I had seriously considered swapping in a third gen 4AGZE with a 3.9 Ring & Pinion. It was a good power to weight ratio setup, and was comfortable for the highway. I was trying to be practical, but that's not why I own a Corolla.

    As a born audiophile, I love the blaring cacophony of high RPMs, Individual Throttle Bodies, and the feeling of that resonance flowing through my body. Toyota and Yamaha created an engine that allowed me to experience all that in their fifth generation 4AGE, the Blacktop.

    Before:


    The Showdown:


    After:



    PROJECT LENGTH JUN 2012-AUG 2013


    For helping me find parts, and for consultation, thanks be to:

    BC Works
    Warren
    Pitobread
    BJ Young
    star_kat
    Duy
    PandaCoupe
    Brian
    VISean
    DugWillis
    b-rock


    And thanks again to my Dad for his supervision and contribution to the project. Sadly, this was our last collaborative project. After finishing the work, I moved to a different country to pursue my career.


    Services and Parts Rendered

    BC Works - Custom Welding, Machining, Powdercoating, and Tuning
    EP Importers - Overnight Parts from Japan
    JDM Advance Engines - Da Engine duh
    Kinsler - EFI Components
    Phoenix Performance - Wiring Harness
    Brian Robert's Automotive & Electric - Alternator Service & Accessory Powdercoating
    Enjuku Racing Parts - The cheapest Koyo Radiator I could find
    Associated Sheet Metal - Custom Fan Shroud
    Driver's Edge - Spal Fan Products
    Victoria Powdercoat - Powdercoating my Manual Rack Housing
    EDP - Rebuilding my Manual Rack
    Coast Industrial - Fuel Lines and Various fittings
    Lordco - Various Pieces
    Last edited by Serendipity; 11-30-2016 at 10:11 PM.

  2. #2
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    PARTS LISZT

    ENGINE

    Yamaha tuned fifth generation 4AGE Blacktop
    AE92 Flywheel, used
    AE92 Clutch, used
    Pilot Bearing, SKF 6001
    4AGE 16V Alternator Bracket
    20V Alternator, Rebuilt & Powdercoated
    Spark Plugs
    Spark Plug Wires, OEM Toyota New
    Distributor Cap, OEM Toyota New
    Distributor Rotor, Beck Arnley
    Oil Pressure Sensor, AE86 GTS, Used
    Coolant Temperature Sensor, AE86 GTS, Used
    O2 Sensor, Bosch 13051


    COOLING

    SS Work's Coolant Relocation Kit
    Koyo Radiator, New
    Custom CNC Fan Shroud
    10" Spal Electric Puller Fans, new (X2)


    FUEL SYSTEM

    GTS Kouki Gas tank, Spectra T01-B Interior Coated, Exterior painted with single stage Black Urethane in semi-gloss.
    GTS Fuel Sender, Hot tanked and Plated. -6 AN Female fitting welded on
    Walbro GSS-307 Fuel Pump
    Kinsler Fuel Filter & Housing, Anodized Black
    Glycerine filled Fuel Pressure Guage


    WIRING

    Phoenix Tuning's complete 20V Blacktop to SR5 Engine Harness.


    MISCELLANEOUS

    AE86 OEM Engine Crossmember & Control Arms, Stitch Welded, Hot Tanked, Cad Plated, and Powdercoated
    TRD Engine Mounts 12361-AE851
    TRD Lower Control Arm Bushings
    Beck Arnley Ball Joints...Boo...
    AE86 GTS Throttle Cable


    MANUAL RACK & PINION

    Used AW11 Manual Rack, Powdercoated, and Rebuilt
    OEM Thrust Bearing
    OEM Rack Bushing
    Manual Rack Boots, Beck Arnley
    T3 Manual Rack Bushing
    Manual Universal Joint, Rav4 (year)
    Intermediate, MKIII Supra


    FLUIDS
    Oil: Amsoil Dominator
    Radiator: Toyota Red
    Last edited by Serendipity; 11-30-2014 at 02:02 AM.

  3. #3
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    ENGINE PREP

    Before installing your spiffy new engine, you'll need to do a number of adjustments to make it compatible for a RWD setup. You can do these in any order you prefer.


    ALTERNATOR & ACCESSORIES

    It's much easier to use the 20V accessory setup, but you can substitute them for 16V accessories if you want. It's nice to be able to walk into any parts store and buy a Water Pump and Alternator if need be, however, if pretty much anything else fails on the engine, you'll need to place an order to Toyota Japan anyways. That's the price you pay to have an engine that was never offered to North America. If you decide to keep the 20V accessories, you could be proactive by ordering a spare of Water Pump Kit. You should also find a local electric repair shop and rebuild the alternator. The components are readily available in North America.



    Using the 20V Alternator Setup

    The 20V Alternator produces 70A (compared to the early 16V at 60A) and will compensate for the extra requirement of the electric fans, so you should use it. The 20V Accessory setup also has a cool upgraded tensioner system.

    Whichever Alternator you use, there are wiring considerations to be made, which will be covered in the Wiring section.





    USING THE 16V ALTERNATOR BRACKET

    To fit the 16V alternator bracket on a 20V engine, you'll need to grind down one of the reinforcements at the back of the Bracket as it interferes with a reinforcement rib on the Block.



    USING THE 20V ALTERNATOR BRACKET

    If you decide to use the 20 valve Alternator Bracket there is an additional complication. One of the Bracket's mounting holes must now share the same space as one of the engine mount's holes. The solution is to create spacers made from round pipe. Drill an appropriate sized hole.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-01-2016 at 12:11 AM.

  4. #4
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    POWER STEERING AND AC


    The only thing I have to say about Power Steering is that it will be easier to install the Engine if the Rack is removed. The Hydraulic lines get in the way, especially if installing your Engine and Trans together as a unit.



    ENGINE MOUNTS

    You'll need to remove the FWD Block Mounts, which are connected to the front and back of the block, respectively. After removing the front FWD Block Mount you'll notice there's a hole in the Timing Cover. It's up to you whether you cover it with a sticker or something or let Karma decide if you deserve a stone in your Cam Gears.



    Before you can install your Engine Mount Brackets you'll need to remove a small pin from where the mounts rest against the block. You'll need to do this on both sides. In the picture below, you'll see a 4AC Engine Mount Bracket. A 4AGE Engine Mount Bracket is a more robust piece, as it has four mounting locations instead of the SR5's three (see SR5 mount in picture).


    ENGINE MOUNT CHOICES

    TRD

    Still available in 2014 by special order from TRD Japan. These are made of a higher durometer rubber than the OEM Mounts, but are the same size. TRD does not make a Transmission Mount, so you'd be buying an OEM replacement.

    www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_bush-ae86.html



    CUSCO

    Available in North America through various Cusco Distributors, these Engine Mounts are made of Polyurethane, and are stiffer than TRD mounts. These Engine Mounts are also 10mm shorter than OEM. Cusco also offers a polyurethane Transmission Mount, so ante up!

    http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_prod...arts_list.html



    MEGAN RACING

    Meh. Is It rebranded CUSCO? I don't know.


    STARTER, SPLASHGUARD, AND ENGINE BRACES

    The 20V comes with a 2A Starter. As it is found on the passenger side of the engine bay it is incompatible with a GTS Bellhousing. Install a Starter from a Manual Transmission 16V 4AGE or 4AC. Since it's already out, rebuild it! The pinion on Automatic 4A starters are incompatible.


    The 20V Splashguard is also incompatible with a GTS Bellhousing, so use your 4AC or a spare 4AG Splashguard instead.


    To finish securing your Bellhousing to the Engine you should install your Engine Braces. The Driver's side Brace from your SR5 can be reused, but you'll need a Passenger side Brace from a GTS. One of the holes on the Driver's Side will need to be modified to fit properly.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-01-2016 at 12:24 AM.

  5. #5
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    PILOT BEARING

    You'll need to install a Pilot Bearing if you want to mate the 20V to a T-50 manual transmission. You can use any 4A compatible Pilot Bearing.



    FLYWHEEL & CLUTCH

    You can use any of the 5 generations of 4AGE Flywheels, but the 20V engines (GEN 4 & 5) were designed to run with lighter ones.

    The 20Vs come with a 212mm surface Flywheel weighing approximately 6Kg, while the early model 16V comes with one that has a 200mm surface area weighing approximately 7.6Kg. 200mm 21 spline clutch kits are much easier to find, anyhow. If your engine came with a clutch then inspect the assembly for wear. I'd recommend replacing anything with under 50% life left, unless you mind dropping your Trans in the future.



    After resurfacing my Blacktop flywheel, I couldn't get a new 212mm clutch kit in time, so I installed a used AE92 Clutch & Flywheel in the meantime, the flywheel weighing approximately 6.9Kg (weights referenced from Jun's Website).



    To be honest, the cost of resurfacing would have been better served in upgrading to a TODA or JUN lightweight flywheel. I drove a fellow member's ride (he has a TODA flywheel), and the acceleration was like night and day compared to mine.

    If you have the money, invest in a lightened flywheel from a reputed JDM manufacturer.


    TODA
    200mm
    http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/prod...eel/4ag-1.html

    215mm
    http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/prod...eel/4ag-2.html

    JUN
    200mm and 212mm
    http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/fl...l?maker=toyota
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-01-2016 at 12:36 AM.

  6. #6
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    COOLING

    I wanted to make sure that the water was routed as per OEM engineering, so that the cold water went to the Cylinder Head first. This removed the RS Chita from my options as it's designed to send the cold water to the block first. After considering even the T3 routing kit, I happily chose the SS Work's kit.


    SS WORK'S WATERLINE KIT

    A really straight-forward, well-made kit machined from Billet Alluminum, and pieced together with "Warren Approved" Tig welds. It came with OEM gaskets, and Samco hoses. It was simple to mount it to the engine.

    The unfortunate reality is that you cannot use the 20V alternator in its original position if you plan to use an SS Work's Water Relocation kit. The Cold Water Pipe shares the same location as the Alternator. Your choices are to use the SS Work's kit with a 16V Alternator Bracket, use the 20V Alternator setup with a custom Waterline Kit, or modify the SS Work's Kit.

    I would recommend that once you install your engine that you drill a few holes in your firewall at the location of the Water Kit's mounting bolts. If you ever need to tighten them, there is NOT enough clearance to access the fasteners easily. Cover the holes with OEM gaskets for baller status.

    If you want to install this Kit before dropping your engine in then you should fabricate a narrower engine hook for the back of your Cylinder Head (or buy a ready made hook from SQ Engineering). The OEM hook shares some mounting holes with the SS Work's Housing, and cannot be used with the Water Kit installed. I found it near-impossible to pitch the engine correctly when I wasn't able to use the rear engine hook.

    These dope kits are made to order and took 7 weeks from purchase to delivery (VIA EMS). cdn.com/20161201/a689d21e7cc8eca7ab4077d3cb2db6f1.jpg[/IMG]


    KOYO RADIATOR

    To be frank, the radiator doesn't actually fit. This kind of pissed me off. The bottom pegs line up nicely, but the added thickness of the radiator requires that you massage the area where the Rad sits against. Even then, the Rad is pitched about 15? out which is unflattering. The best thing is to space the mounting pegs further towards the engine. Warren, I need your help here! Either way, you'll also have to bend the Radiator Brackets to grasp the Rad firmly. Make some new ones if you want, but OEM is cool.


    RADIATOR HOSES

    I reused my 4AC Rad hoses. The bottom one mounted perfectly (with a nice space where the former Power Steering Pump lived), while I had to trim the top Hose to fit. A temporary solution, as I decide wether to go all AN for my cooling system.


    CUSTOM CNC FAN SHROUD

    This was one of the more interesting pieces of this puzzle for me. I made a cardboard template of what I wanted, marked where the fans lined up, and brought all the pieces of the cooling system to Associated Sheet Metal. They treated me with respect and showed a great interest in my project. They took into consideration the shape I wanted and plotted it out using a CAD program. After the CNC cut out the pattern, the corners were folded over, and the Mounting Brackets were TIG Welded on.

    When I arrived to pick up the Shroud, it looked like it was made by Toyota.



    DUAL 10" SPAL FANS (ELECTRIC)

    Frank from Driver's Edge in Vancouver recommended that I go with Spal Fans due to their durability and their success in Rally Racing. I called Spal's tech line and they helped me select my fans based on a number of factors including Radiator size, Horsepower, and available space.

    I purchased a Relay & Harness for each fan, and a 195?F Thermostatic Switch. Warren and Joel from BC Works machined and TIG Welded a threaded bung to the top of the radiator near the cool water outlet for the switch. Neat.





    TOYOTA COOLANT

    Why Not?
    Last edited by Serendipity; 04-24-2018 at 08:15 PM.

  7. #7
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    INTAKE

    It seems that Toyota's performance figures for this engine, beside being complete bull****, depend on having Open Intake Stacks. That's great for performance, they sound beautiful when they're gurgling at any throttle range, but are uncomfortably loud for a long road trip. I decided that it would be best to have two intake setups: Open Stacks (filtered) for city use, and a modified OEM Plenum for highway.

    I'm still searching for actual dyno figures for the Velocity Stacks that are available from companies like TODA, T3, and SQ, to name a few, so I'm currently running my setup with a modified Blacktop OEM Plenum.


    TODA
    http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/prod...ion/4ag-3.html

    SS WORK'S
    http://www.ss-works.jp/partslist1-2.html


    SQ
    SQ claims that the 110mm velocity stacks are the best overall length for daily driven 20Vs.
    http://s-86.com/velocity_stacks.php

    T3
    100mm
    https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/20v4age/100mm-long-4ag-20v-velocity-stacks

    Tec-Arts
    110mm
    http://www.tecarts.com/catalog/4throttle.html



    MODIFYING THE OEM PLENUM

    Expertly modified by Pitobread from BC Works, the OEM Blacktop Plenum can fit! You need to do the following to make it work:

    -Remove the 3" Collar where the Cold Air Pipe once connected to
    -Cut a 3" round hole at the front of the Plenum (RWD configuration)
    -Use the round piece you just cut to cover the hole at the back of the Plenum (RWD configuration)
    -Relocate the PCV pipe
    -Buy a 3" Mild Steel Pipe. Cut and Weld on a section pointing to the front of the engine bay.
    -Buy a 3" cone filter, and fit it to the end of the Mild Steel Pipe.

    NB You cannot run a heater elbow with an OEM plenum.

    JSP 20V plenum
    http://www.jspfab.com/catalog/i70.html
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-01-2016 at 01:03 AM.

  8. #8
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    EXHAUST

    The three middle studs on the 16V and 20V Exhaust Manifolds share the same locations. The two outer bolt holes on the 20V head are located a half inch further out towards each end. The 16V extractors do, however, line up well with the 20V Cylinder Head.


    Your options are to:

    A) Modify an OEM 16V RWD Exhaust Manifold.
    B) Buy an aftermarket 20V RWD exhaust Manifold.

    You cannot use the OEM FWD 20V Exhaust Manifold in a RWD application as the flange that connects to the down pipe shares the same location as the RWD Engine Mount Brackets. It's sad though, because Toyota invested good R&D into making an excellent Equal Length Header for the 20V engines.


    Option A) If you are talented enough to weld Cast Iron, you can extend the outer flanges on the manifold, then drill the new holes, and plane the mating surface, etc. If not, line up the 16V Manifold on the 20V head and mark where the flange overlaps with the 20V Bolt Holes. Remove that material, and machine a couple of spacers. Admittedly, it's a temporary solution, as to squeeze out all the performance from this swap, you'll want to upgrade your header anyhow.

    Warren from BC Works had a concern that (without a flange on the outer bolt areas) the Manifold may not seal properly, so he machined a collar for both outside bolts. He also filled in a large crack in the centre of the old Manifold. Beautiful work, as always.

    Option B:

    JSP:
    JSP is a talented fabricator and welder living in California. His words:

    "My header works best on high rpm engines built to make between 170-240hp. If you plan to put a 272 cam or larger then it will work fine. It is designed for long duration high lift engines."

    4:1 $1400 USD:
    No longer offered

    Tri-y $1750 USD:
    http://www.jspfab.com/catalog/i64.html


    OBX:
    A cheap knockoff of the Formula Atlantic Header. Duy has had several of these in his possession and laughs that not one has ever fit the same way. He's also had to pay to have his OBX headers adjusted so they didn't smack the bottom of the firewall. ****ty in my opinion. $400ish plus the cost of fitting.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 05-22-2017 at 09:58 PM.

  9. #9
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    IGNITION

    What to do about that danged distributor? Here are your options:

    A) Go Coil on Plug (COP). In my opinion, this is the best option., however a lot of my 20V friends have said that the waste spark is not ideal, and are trying to convert back to a distributor.

    Anyhow, buy four Ignition Coils from a 1ZZ (Toyota Echo) or 1NZ (flatter), and wire them up. Then, buy or machine a cover for your distributor. Make it cleaner by buying or fabbing a plate which secures your Coil Packs to the Head. Battle garage, the current USDM supplier of SQ, has these parts for sale:

    http://www.battlegarage.bigcartel.co...rsion-and-more

    Of course, there's a little more to it than that, but I chose option B, so I have no information to relay here. Check out the following site for more info on setting up your COP:

    http://s-86.com/article_coilpacks.php


    B) Go Redneck and Cut/Smash/Punch your way through the firewall. This is a viable option if you love Exhaust heat making you feel like you're driving through the fiery hells of Mordor. Yes, I did this, but only because I intended to extend the Firewall around the distributor. In my planning stage I didn't realize that I would also be have to:

    -Remove the Dashboard with the hope of reassembling it correctly, in one piece, and without breaking anything
    -Remove the Heater Core
    -Remove the Brake Lines that run along the Firewall (because they're in the way)
    -Make a gigantic hole in your car that makes Prison life seem somewhat appealing
    -Buy Dynamat to cover the hole
    -Add the Distributor Cap and Spark Plug wires to the list of things you'll have to order from Japan. (The Rotor can be found on USDM Camry's)
    -Cry yourself to sleep.



    There's little room to extend the firewall back without cutting into the HVAC system. Also, if for some reason you need to service the Distributor, then you'll need to pull the engine. It's a hard choice to make. If you decide to go aftermarket ECU, then the COP setup will work best.


    N.B. The benefit of pulling your heater core is that you can have it rebuilt, and you should. Mine was overdue. No dogs were hurt in the making of this thread.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-01-2016 at 01:15 AM.

  10. #10
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    PART 2, EFI FUEL SYSTEM

    It's much easier to setup your EFI Fuel System while you have an empty engine bay. If you're already running an EFI setup, then skip this section.


    FUEL LINES

    The original SR5 fuel lines are:

    SENDING 1/4"
    RETURN 3/16"
    VENT 3/16"

    You'll need a larger Sending line to accommodate the EFI system, so the easiest thing to do is to run a new Sending line, and use your SR5's Sending Line for the Return, Leave the Vent Line as is. Here's a visual on how to route it:

    SR5 SENDING ---> GTS RETURN
    SR5 RETURN --- REMOVE AND ADD NEW LINE FOR GTS SENDING
    SR5 VENT ---> KEEP AS IS

    It's best to label the lines in their original SR5 formation and their new GTS formation to ensure that you have plumbed everything correctly.





    You will need the following supplies for a basic push on hose installation:

    -15ft of 3/8" EFI hose
    -5ft of 1/4" EFI hose
    -3ft of 1/8" EFI hose
    -Several EFI hose clamps for all line sizes
    -Various adapters/line reducers based on how you route your fuel lines
    -Zip ties
    -Glycerine filled Fuel Pressure Gauge for the engine bay. Not essential, but it will really help in diagnosing problems.
    -New Fuel Filter
    -EFI Fuel Pump



    FUEL SENDER (GAUGE)

    You can reuse the sender from your SR5.


    MY SETUP

    I got the important pieces for my Fuel System from Kinsler. Their tech gurus were most helpful in choosing the right gear. The Fuel Filter they sold me is one they supply NASCAR with, and it's really neat! The filter is housed in an Aluminum case and opens with a wrench, unfortunately though, an imperial one. There are two filter choices: a 10 micron paper filter, or a 3 micron mesh/paper filter. They retail for $10-17, and are a steal!

    Anticipating future AN upgrades for my Fuel System, I had Warren from BC Works weld on a -6 Female AN fitting to the send line on my Fuel Sender.

    See the Wiring Section about wiring the Fuel System and Pump. (Additional details to follow with pictures)



    NB after running a Walbro pump (or Wailbro as I now call it) for two years, I replaced it with an OEM pump as I had had enough of the whine. Driving around the streets, EVERYONE stares at you with a look on their faces as if they think your car will explode. Mind you, some of them are doing it because they like your ride.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-01-2016 at 01:20 AM.

  11. #11
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    INSTALLING THE ENGINE

    Now that you've completed the necessary prep for the engine, it's time to slide 'er in, so to speak. I'd suggest attaching the Transmission and installing them both, but a friend of mine managed just fine by dropping in the engine alone; that is until it comes time to line up the Input Shaft. As long as your engine hoist has an adjustable pitch, you should be fine.



    ENGINE WIRING & SENSORS

    There are a great deal of resources for those who want to wire up the engine yourselves. I saved myself the time and the frustration and got a complete wiring swap from Dr. Tweak. It arrives from the US completely assembled with new wire, and harness plugs. It also includes the fuel relays which makes finishing your project that much easier. I do, however, wish each plug was labeled. Thankfully I have smart friends. If you happen to buy this kit, ask specifically to have them label each connector for you, if they will.

    If you're planning to run the OEM ECU, you'll also need to keep the Ignitor and the Ignition coil.




    SENSORS

    If your engine came with a harness, be sure to scavenge it for the following sensors:

    -ENGINE TEMP SENSOR
    -MAP SENSOR
    -AIR TEMP SENSOR
    -IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE



    OIL PRESSURE SENSOR

    The 20V Oil Pressure sensor is incompatible with an AE86 Dasch. Replace it with first generation 4A sensor.


    COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

    The 20V Coolant Temperature Sensor is incompatible with your Dasch. Replace it with a 16V sensor. You cannot use the one from your SR5.


    O2 SENSOR

    You'll need to buy one of these.




    ALTERNATOR

    -If your car is an SR5 then you'll have to extend the alternator wires, as the 20V alternator is now on the opposite side of the engine bay.
    -white 10 gauge (20')
    -white and yellow 14 gauge (6')
    -black 18 gauge (10')



    ELECTRIC FANS

    The SPAL Fans I bought came with wiring diagrams, as will, hopefully, any other quality fans you decide to use.


    FUEL SYSTEM & PUMP

    You'll need to run a positive wire for ECU power down the passenger side of your cabin to the gas tank. This will connect to the positive wire on your fuel pump. Ground the fuel pump, keeping the wire as short at possible. To make any future service easier, consider including a harness plug or male/female connector at the fuel tank.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-31-2017 at 06:01 AM.

  12. #12
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    MISCELLANEOUS THINGS


    ENGINE CROSSMEMBER AND RELATED

    Since the engine is out, its not a bad idea to clean up your Engine Crossmember, and replace your front end bushings. I had mine Hot Tanked, Cadmium Plated, then Powdercoated. Ride comfort provided by TRD bushings and new Ball Joints.




    MANUAL RACK & PINON

    Since you have the room, it's also not a bad idea to get this done as well. I had the Rack Housing Powdercoated, then the assembly rebuilt. The Tie Rods were still tight as a nun so I reused them.



    VACUUM LINES

    Even if you have a low km engine, spend a little extra and replace the Vacuum Lines. You'll eliminate any potential leaks, and learn how your Vacuum is routed. There are also two large Vacuum lines at the front of the Intake. Cap them off.


    THROTTLE CABLE

    Your SR5 Throttle Cable is too short. Use an AE86 GTS Throttle Cable.



    BRAKE BOOSTER

    Without modifying your intake, you can extend your Brake Booster Vacuum Line to the front of your intake for a quick fix. A cleaner solution is to weld a pipe to the back of the Intake and attach your Booster Line there.


    CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

    You'll need a GTS Gauge cluster as the SR5 Cluster does not have a check engine light. Wire in a pin to the appropriate location from your ECU


    VVT LIGHT

    To be discussed when I finish this task sometime before I die.


    HEAT SINK FOR ECU

    To be discussed when I finish this task sometime.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-31-2017 at 06:02 AM.

  13. #13
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    Curious question, why didn't you just use the AE92 kit with the 20v flywheel? I know my silver top and small port have the exact same flywheel, is a black top one different, or did you just not have the flywheel at all?

  14. #14
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    Serendipity's comprehensive 20V swap.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blade7 View Post
    Curious question, why didn't you just use the AE92 kit with the 20v flywheel? I know my silver top and small port have the exact same flywheel, is a black top one different, or did you just not have the flywheel at all?
    I couldn't get a new AE92 clutch kit in time. After having the Blacktop Flywheel resurfaced, I preferred not to instal a used clutch to it. Capiche?

    When the current clutch needs replacing, I'll decide whether to use my Blacktop Flywheel with a new Clutch Kit, or splurge for a TODA setup.
    Last edited by Serendipity; 12-31-2013 at 11:07 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    1,185
    Whoa.
    '80 MX32 sedan |'83 AE71 wagon |'84 AE86 hatch
    '85 AE86 coupe |'86 AE86 hatch |'86 AE86 coupe
    '88 MR2 S/C |'86 S12 hatch |'88 Silvia K's
    '91 Z30 Soarer '92 JZS147 Aristo |'92 S13 coupe
    '93 R33 Skyline |'98 S14 kouki


    Quote Originally Posted by JungleMatic View Post
    Is dyno like 200 for the hp if mustang shifts but 300 if corolla shifts?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Squamish BC
    Posts
    2,777
    I hope someone got you a camera for christmas

    owned vehicles
    92 LN130 | 76 MX13 | 87 Civic | 87 AE86 | 93 VZN105 | 81 TE72W | 85 RA64 | 85 AE86 | 93 RN130

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Kumamoto Japan
    Posts
    2,515
    Ah, ok. I have been looking for a BT flywheel and I thought you said it wouldn't work. If you get rid of the BT one, I have been looking for one.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,240
    Thanks for the informative thread!
    1989 MX83 - Sold
    1985 AE86 Coupe - Sold
    1985 MX73 - Sold
    1984 AE86 Hatch - Project Car

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    1,185
    Can we get one of the mods to pin this in the info/tech section? I feel this deserves a spot in there.
    '80 MX32 sedan |'83 AE71 wagon |'84 AE86 hatch
    '85 AE86 coupe |'86 AE86 hatch |'86 AE86 coupe
    '88 MR2 S/C |'86 S12 hatch |'88 Silvia K's
    '91 Z30 Soarer '92 JZS147 Aristo |'92 S13 coupe
    '93 R33 Skyline |'98 S14 kouki


    Quote Originally Posted by JungleMatic View Post
    Is dyno like 200 for the hp if mustang shifts but 300 if corolla shifts?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Beyond the Sun
    Posts
    1,279
    So I was finally able to add some photos! I took the time to clean up the thread a bit too. It's almost finished...

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