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Thread: help blacktop 20v high idle; warning lots of blathering and over info

  1. #21
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    was having high rpm stumbles for a while at factory timing and had to advance it a lot and then it went away but does stumble ever so slightly on occasion.

    I'll have to pull my coolant temp sensor and test it.

    just checked my map today cause up until today I have had the check valve plumbed in but it's in now. still idling high though. I'll definitely have a look at that coolant temp sensor

  2. #22
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    you guys are totally overthinking it, it's the iacv...
    if you were closer you could drop by and I'll plug in the one off my car and it'll idle at 800. the blacktops just finicky like that. I've actually taken a broken one and cranked the adjustment to one side to get it to idle at 800
    but instead of just buying new temp sensors, I'm sure you can check the resistance cold vs hot

  3. #23
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    visean is offline Yo, troubled night in the John
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    I have an extra IACV if you want to buy, but I have no idea if it works. I am running stand alone and no IACV on mine.... I just have to sit with my foot on the gas a little bit for the first minute of warm up. YOLO RACE CAR!?

  4. #24
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    duy I've been in snohomish area wa for a while but after April 11 I should be back up in Bellingham if you get time at some point It wouldn't be a big deal for me to go up there. I've tried adjusting the iac and I know I've taken the spring out and manually lowered the idle down while it was hooked up but like you said if they're finicky I'll try another. I just figured the temp sensor could be telling the iac it's not warmed up yet and to keep warming up.

    I guess well just have to see!

    visean if I can prove the iac is the problem I'll be more
    then happy to buy it off you when I settle into a job in bham. currently I'm broke and unemployed looking for work in Bellingham so it'll be a bit before I have the funds lol

  5. #25
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    oh and yeah I was was just gonna put it in a pot of water and heat it up but I guess removing it isn't necessary haha

  6. #26
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    i came up with an interesting theory. when i start it cold itll start and idle around 800-1000 and then as it warms up it increases until its about 1600-1700 when hot. could my sensor wiring be swapped? not sure if theres a specific polarity for these sensors but it kinda behaves that way. if tweakd never thought about that i wouldnt be suprised if they didnt worry about polar orientation.... anyway gonna see if i can either swap wires or but a jumper between plug and senor to see if it makes a difference.

    or im just wrong haha

  7. #27
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    visean is offline Yo, troubled night in the John
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    NOPE! Wiring on toyota sensors can't be swapped as the ECU is just looking at the voltage drop between the two wires.... sort of, so it doesn't matter which wire goes to which lead.
    Having said that, it doesn't mean you might not have wiring issues. The joys of an engine swapped car!

    What you could put between the wires is a potentiometer. or a bread board and some resistors.

  8. #28
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    that's a thought! like my own electric choke! and yeah heated up getting like .346 k ohms stupid auto multimeter

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThrashLoaf View Post
    was having high rpm stumbles for a while at factory timing and had to advance it a lot and then it went away but does stumble ever so slightly on
    Any more detail on this issue? Know of other people with COP set ups that also change the timing?

    I have had issues with stumbles or misfires in the past
    1984 blacktop coupe
    1982 Corolla wagon - STOLEN

  10. #30
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    yeah I can reply Better when I'm home but I had to advance to about 20• initial timing which is with diagnostic terminals jumped. it's a lot and I wouldn't try it if you don't have a knock sensor

  11. #31
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    when you batch fire with toyota coilpacks, it tends to misfire WOT or top end. doesnt happen with civic d17a plugs for some reason

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duy- View Post
    when you batch fire with toyota coilpacks, it tends to misfire WOT or top end. doesnt happen with civic d17a plugs for some reason
    Thanks Duy, never saw reports of this in the original club4ag thread. Just to be clear my engine is a blacktop 20v on the stock ecu with Toyota COPs ( 1NZ).

    Any thread you can link me to? Change the timing or go to the civic COPs?
    1984 blacktop coupe
    1982 Corolla wagon - STOLEN

  13. #33
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    I have civic cop too I went with 1nzfe and 1zzfe because the tweakd harness came with those but I did wire one on my 16v once and it worked too but I don't know about rpms didn't really try.

  14. #34
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    oh yeah the other problem I had with civic plugs at least on the 16v is they would make it about a half mile down the road and melt I still have a few left if you wanna try them out

    the video I posted above was 1nzfe coils

  15. #35
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    visean is offline Yo, troubled night in the John
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    What do you mean? How were you running COPs on your 16v? I hope you weren't running them group fire like you are on the BT.

  16. #36
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    because the injectors are also batch fire lol

  17. #37
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    yeah just one i just wired it to the igniter like a 20v. it worked just the same. the intake valve is really the determining factor.

  18. #38
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    Wired it where to the igniter? The coil output?

  19. #39
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    i just wired it up the same way you wire a 20v cop. it wasnt really beneficial at all, just did it because people said you couldnt due to batch fire injectors and thats not exactly true.

    i believe i had one wire going to ground and one going to igniter and i mightve had a third wire its been a while since ive even thought about it haha. it revved up all the way in nuetral i know that. i just didnt try any wot runs because the coils would melt pretty quickly. and that could be due to how i wired it. i probably did something stupid like had a loadless circuit the whole time and then the coil wire who knows haha i dont have a 16v anymore so i never took it further.

  20. #40
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    Depends what wire you used off he igniter. I honk the Honda coils begin charging on the leading edge of the trigger pulse and fire on the trailing edge - they would want to run off the igt signal from the PCM (which does go to the igniter) however if you used the coil output of the igniter than it would have the opposite polarity, over dwell the coil pack and over advance the ignition - and fry the coil.

    As for your idle issue, should it not be the iacv, open up the PCM and see if any caps are leaking. Generally leaky caps cause less specific problems, but it would be nice to rule it out.

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