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Thread: 2az-fe into a RWD corolla

  1. #1
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    2az-fe into a RWD corolla

    Bunch of people were chatting about this on Whatsapp chat group:

    2az into Ae86

    http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/eng...into-ae86.html
    http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic...2az-fe-thread/

    Taka aono

    http://dsportmag.com/browse/featured...ng-for-goliath

    Discuss!!!


  2. #2
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    I'm curious as to why they chose the AZ instead of the AR. There are a lot of people making good power on the 2ar engine.

  3. #3
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    i can only think that the transmission bell housing would get bulky.. ? Also the 2az is same weight as a 4age

  4. #4
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    This is interesting to me... It seems like a lot more work than some other swaps, and a lot more Frankinstine-ish, but I really like the idea of it. Why is this such an uncommon swap? It seems like a very good idea.

  5. #5
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    Sure it's a great idea if you have money and fab skills. Or you can just bolt in an sr20.

  6. #6
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    lol sr20 is so 2000n late

  7. #7
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    Yes but also can cost $3000 all said and done.
    BCWORKS

  8. #8
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    But where I am currently, I could get a whole car for $300. SR's are a little harder to find when there are 20 of those engines within a 1km radius of me right now. It is the fab work that looks like the hardest part, but it is something to think about. I am now studying this.

  9. #9
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    2rz or 3rz. Big block 4 cyl.

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blade7 View Post
    there are 20 of those engines within a 1km radius of me right now.
    Are you a cyborg?


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pitobread View Post
    2rz or 3rz. Big block 4 cyl.
    QFT

    - already RWD, no headache there
    - stock W59 means, stock bellhousing allows to run any W tranny, no ring gear filling or starter mayhem
    - Bullet f??&ing proof

    All the 2AZ has over the RZ is the light weight alloy block which is pretty nice but is it worth all the trouble?...
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  12. #12
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    then a dohc ka24 starts looking appealing too.

    cheap, plentiful, bolts in.


    i'm totally playing devils advocate here. i'd love swap ideas because its a necessity for me one day.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommy View Post
    no ring gear filling
    Took me half an hour with my dremel and a single cutoff wheel to do my 3s-gte flywheel. Not as hard as one would expect, and the starter engages flawlessly.

    wikipedia suggests this engine superceeds the S lineup, could that mean similar bellhousing pattern, implying 5/6ths (or whatever) compatibility with an R series bellhousing?

  14. #14
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    I work at the biggest Toyota around and there are a ton of old trade-in's here.

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    Yeah but KA and RZ are both iron block huge mothers.
    BCWORKS

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    Use a Geo metro alternator, sheet metal intake and light non cast header and an RZ would be on par with a 4age... 'cept it would have power and torque.
    1987 Corolla GTS Hatch | 1985 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1987 Corolla GTS Coupe | 1992 Tercel CE | 1992 Paseo | 2003 Corolla CE | 1974 Corolla 4 Door | 1978 Corolla Coupe | 1979 Corolla Hatch SR5 | <3||||||1990 Miata |||||| <3
    I like Toyota's wanna fight about it?

  17. #17
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    Do the same to a 4AG and it would be even lighter, and slow.
    BCWORKS

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    i like when people buss ass to get Toyota motors to work in Toyota car. keep that other stuff where it belongs. prolly gonna get flamed for that.
    85Sr5 3RZ+TH400+8.8 TO B CONTINUED

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by wonda View Post
    i like when people buss ass to get Toyota motors to work in Toyota car. keep that other stuff where it belongs. prolly gonna get flamed for that.
    No flames required. Im the guy who built and owns the 2az-fe AE86 built from mainly stock parts in Australia.

    Taka Aonos version uses a Nascar transmission thats an expensive custom item and his motor was built by Hasselgren, who generally build formula atlantic engines as evidenced by the custom valve cover finish. Its next level stuff, highly boosted 500ft/lb and 500hp plus.

    I just wanted to fit one to a corolla chassis and try to do it on mainly stock Toyota stuff. It appeals to be because I dont mind doing extra work to keep it in the Toyota Family. Its basically about as hard as a fairly common fwd to rwd gen 1/2/3 3sge conversion is, which is reasonably common, with a couple of extra things to consider along the way. Its a challenge to do your own research at the self service wrecker rather than rely on other peoples ideas and patterns of thought. Its service weight is no more than a 4age, maybe even a touch less, and it has heavy after market support. If I ever get wealthy I can put a bc stroked 2.6 litre motor in and go nuts, although NA appeals more than boost as Im more of a purist about the ae86 (even if that sounds contradictory). I wanted a car that handled and steered like an ae86 should, with great torque response and some revvy character to the engine. The 2az is a passenger car engine with a lot of low down grunt to haul you and your family around in a Camry. It is a bit happier at higher revs than an rz engine, it suits the NA screamer punching above its weight ideals of the ae86 more than bigger and heavier truck motors, even if hp/l is potentially greater in a steel blocked rz, I care more about potential hp/kg, and the 2az has this in spades. The car doesn't need 800 hp to do what I want to do with it as I'm not trying to get too far away from the feel of the original.

    I used:

    2002 Camry 2azfe engine - removed from a brand new car with coils, flywheel, clutch, manifolds, tb and engine loom.
    W57 transmission with fairly low mileage, stripped, cleaned and fitted with the brass shifter bush conversion that's commonly done to these.
    4age ae-101 Independent throttle bodies
    MX13 Corona Mark 2 rear end - 3.9:1, 7.5 inch cw/p with Lexus RS200 Altezza Type 2 torsen lsd from 99 model car.
    RA40 Front Struts converted to HSD coil overs. 5 kg springs.
    Toyota Hilux Y transmission bell housing from YN8x series utility
    Matching Y flywheel ring gear
    Matching YN8x Starter reduction type - rebuilt.

    Complex Problems:
    Starter motor location. Engine has no provision for starter unless installed bell housing side ala camry series. Has a large aluminium sandwich plate to connect to the transmission that blocks all access from traditional rwd locations. Unknown bell housing pattern or if any rwd tranny suits.

    Motor has interference issues with the throttle body pointing the wrong way and hitting the firewall with engine mounted. Unmodifiable high temp plastic manifold.

    Motor leans towards inlet side in stock car but leans the other way 9 degrees ish when rotated and mated rwd. Oil pickup level changes. Sump drain not correct.

    Very close to/touches top of firewall/tunnel union area .

    Steering interference to clutch slave on required bell housing.

    Shifter position a bit forwards of t50 stock position.

    No engine mount bolt holes with thread anywhere

    Stock belt system includes an extra 2 devices as I deleted AC and power steering from the motor. This creates interference issues where the belt wants to travel through the tensioner.

    Solutions/Mods required to adapt it all and fit to chassis

    Bellhousing was simlar to S motors, which is similar to Y, VZ, MZ, GR. I decided to use Y bell as I had the S as well baut it put the starter on the hot side and in a location that interfered with the main structural bolts holding the motor together. Y placed it on the inlet side and in some superfluous metal that could be trimmed. I drilled, chipped and flap disced a spot for the starter to bolt in. There was only the dowels locating the housing and maybe one bolt. I drilled through and tapped a couple holes on the block and bell in turn and was able to get about a 5 bolt union that I was happy with. I had to make a couiple of plates and close up some redundant inspection holes on the union at the engine side.

    2azfe flywheel was machined down to fit the smaller Y ring gear and to save weight and to let the native location of the starter on the Y housing locate it in accordance with the ring gear. This natively gave the correct engagement and tooth set angle to get it to work. I just had to work out the correct face to face distance from starter to ring gear. My first attempt (4 washers precisely worked out fine and remains in place to this day). Flywheel is well under 10kgs now, it think, I cannot really remember but its in my rollaclub thread if you care to read it. The 2az flywheel was retained as it has a unique bolt pattern at the crank and the economics and reliability of redrilling a flywheel is not ideal. Hence the decision to machine it down to suit a starter/bellhousing set from a stock vehicle.

    The stock 9 inch camry clutch was used that came with the motor originally. Ive slipped it once pretty hard. Otherwise its been fine, held up great especially at the drag strip. I needed the clutch shop top make a custom throwout bearing carrier to adapt the distance offset by the odd fwd rwd mating of surfaces, so the throwout bearing is also way bigger than the Toyota parts that would generally operate this clutch, I think its a ford bearing from a much larger car. It was all as recommended by NPC, a pretty well loved shop here in Brisbane that does excellent clutch system engineering. I used a wider double row pilot bearing and tapped it to an ideal depth without seating it allt he way, and this perfectly adapted the nose of the input shaft to the motor.

    The belts were re routed slightly by modifying the tensioner to accept a stud and a different pulley. The belt then was set with a rose jointed arm that turn-buckle adjusts. A custom post was turned on a lathe to hold the lower edge. This clears the path along with some further relief of metal on the tensioner bracket itself to adjust the belt and have it function correctly. The idler pulley was swapped to a back of belt pulley to a grooved 7pk unit to allow the belt to wrap around the other side. Diagrams can be found in my rollaclub thread.

    Mounts were custom and picked up some holes that I tapped on the block, Hot side is really wierd looking but wraps around the block to pick up a very low bolt hole and is cutaway to clear the disptick, the other side has a 3 bolt pattern as you would hope for.

    Used cusco ae86 engine rubber mounts.

    Made an itb manifold to suit the 20v itbs. Used Ross machine racing (USA) flange on the motor side and sam Q(Australia) made me the flange that spaced the throttles 10mm apart and modified my inks for me. I had a local alloy welding guru weld it up. Mick from Exotic exhaust. I hand formed the port transitions from alloy bullbar tube. SamQ supplied trumpets for me which he makes to custom specifications. Mine are 98mm plus they have 8mm spacers under them. Longer seems better. Total inlet length is about 340mm to valve I think.

    Has a modified ra65 gearbox cross member to adapt the tranny in. Uses shortened mx13 auto tail shaft that came with the diff and had the correct w57 manual spline for some reason. Its one piece still with the stock 40 year old rubber join intact in the crush tube.

    Motor slants left which has a few benefits. Keeps gearbox dead level. Allows longer inlet with less interference with clutch and brake master. Straightens out the early part of the exhaust slightly. Makes the motor more natively fit into the deepest part of the firewall. Reminds me of the old K motor in the previous corollas, which traditionally slants left, although much more than this.

    Sump was hand formed with a slide hammer and custom anvil recess to accept a new location for the oil pickup screen and drain bung. Dipstick was remarked at approximately double the level of original based off a dry oil fill and engine rotation to prime motor and filter. To achieve a new oil pickup location I custom designed a new oil pickup that I did a sloppy job planning but somehow got correct flange orientation first go. It was made from heavy steel steam pipe and welded by professional pipe welders at a boat engine shop. I faced the flanges and ported the pipe and polished the seam from the inside to enhance flow and reduce restriction. It gets oil pressure before it starts and I have not had a pressure loss while driving in any event or terrain, so it seems to work perfectly.
    Last edited by littleredspirit; 03-26-2016 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Spelling and more details

  20. #20
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    The bit where it touched the tunnel top edge was simply relief cut slightly, hammered inwards a bit to create the required clearance, and then patch welded over the 2 splits.

    Clutch slave was modified by being ground to sit lower and at a slight angle and the bleeder shortened to clear the steering. I dont recall what it was off but there are at least 3 designs of slaves to suit the Y housings over the years, i just found one that didnt stick forwards too far and I cant remember what it was off. Clutch works great though.

    Has lift pump, surge tank and bosch hp pump under the car, nothing fuel related inside. 333kpa fuel delivery pressure.

    Runs standalone adaptronic e420d ecu. Innovate LC1 with Bosch wideband and is tuned by tps on VE mode. VVTI is retained and stock cams. I plan to install my 11:1 pistons soon.

    Rose jointed rear suspension members, and koni/kyb rally shock combo.

    Its a registered road car and was easy to pass as with no weight penalty the need for brake upgrades and chassis stiffening are negated. This bypasses a lot of the BS you can get caught up in when registering a modified car for road use in Australia. The car is stock weight at 970kgs with a half cage welded in.

    Wheels are 15x7 staggered ssr fins that suit the stock gaurds. Zero and plus 13 I think. Federal 595 rsr 205 50 15



    Have great mates who helped a lot, and some great people on rollaclub to chat about things with that have been playing corollas for decades.

    Happy to answer questions

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