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  1. #21
    tommy's Avatar
    tommy is offline Redneck engineer/machinist
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisTangoJuice View Post
    Thanks for the info, unrelated, but I just read your build thread all in one go, you're crazy at what you do, was really hoping to get to see the engine in the car at the end buuuuut...
    Haha thanks! Carillo custom rods have a 6 week build time... working on the rest while I wait and might get the car somewhere hot and dry for the winter so I can finish repairing and modding the chassis...

    /back on topic
    TE31 1977 - 2T-B (traded)
    KE20 1974 - Destroked 7A, project "bigblock A meets peanut" Link to build thread (Sold)
    AE95 1990 - 4A-GZE daily driven wagon...

  2. #22
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    Well, progress has sped up quite a bit (for me at least) and the engine is nearly together.
    I'll be posting pics more often on my IG so follow me there: imchristang (or not)

    I really don't have much to say about my car so far, as the photos are pretty self explanatory, if you don't wanna enjoy my artsy **** photos on instagram here they are anyways:

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  3. #23
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    weo weo
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    Engine is in as of Nov. 25.

    I also picked up some poly bushings online for a steal and they should be on shortly.
    I kinda ran into something, the control arm bolt seems to run a bit long and hits the steering rack, stopping me from taking it off. Is this normal or can I just flip the bolt and nut plate so I wont have to unbolt the steering rack to take out the bolt in the future? Also I should note, its an MR2 manual rack.

    Edit: Jk, doesn't work the other way.
    Last edited by ChrisTangoJuice; 12-28-2014 at 10:47 PM.

  4. #24
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    Errthangs all hooked up, fluids filled, all that was left was to get it started.
    I guess I forgot to mention that the battery has been relocated to be back, so if anybody has the oem components to return it back to the front (battery tray, battery hold down, wiring(?) etc, I'm interested), I fear that it wont pass OOP inspection with the battery mounted in the back.

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    The first attempt was a failure, found a coolant leak somewhere around my water pump tho and a fuel leak because I forgot to put copper washers on the cold start line (fixed now.)
    The second attempt was also a failure, stupid me put the spark plug wires on backwords, I put them in the correct spots and did a spark test (it sparked) and went in again.
    Third attempt also failed, had the starter on only for 15-20 seconds, going to look over the timing once again to see if I didn't make a mistake.

    I've been on winter break since Dec 19 and will be back again working on it on Jan 5th, so until then...

  5. #25
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    Looking good Chris!

    Ray
    AE86 | Tacoma X-Runner
    4AGE 20V | 1GR-FE


  6. #26
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    The car starts! However, to be expected, not very well haha.

    When I start the car (which happens suprisingly quickly, a quick turn of the key is all it needed), it jumps quickly to ~2000rpm and idles there for a few seconds, then for 20 seconds afterwards the idle begins to drop, lower and lower then finally it dies at around 500rpm. Revving the engine as its dying/near the end helps to keep it on for a little longer but it inevitably dies as the fuel pressure is too low. I've ran it a bunch more times and was able to rev the car near the beginning, didn't go very high however, only to 4000rpm. I checked the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester hooked up before the fuel filter and it spits out roughly 30-35PSI (FSM says 33-38), after a few seconds it drops to 15PSI which results in the car to die. Is this a malfunctioning fuel pump? Could this also be an issue with a sensor or is the fuel pressure drop enough to diagnose the FP as the problem? Would grounds cause issues like this too? I know for sure that I'm missing one ground, going to try to hook it up soon. I don't know if it'll help to mention it but I get don't a check engine light at all.

  7. #27
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    Fuel pump, fuel electrical (circuit opening relay), air flow meter(controls the fuel pump)

    Get a multimeter on your pump connector and see if it stays running after you get the engine going.

  8. #28
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    Welcome! I seemed to have missed this before... So I only skimmed. If that is an HKS belt, it's supposed to resist stretching, as for the bushing kits, I know there is a guy that an get them in Ontario, so anywhere that carries the brand should be able to order you one. Pretty cool build! I wish I had my 86 when I was 17!

    Also, you were looking for a small port?

  9. #29
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    Sparkie: Thanks, tbh I actually barely knew what you were saying until a few google searches later haha, I think I understand now, will update later tomorrow, hopefully with good news!

    Blade7: I actually already picked up a bushings kit, bought it second hand (brand new) off a somewhat-local guy for cheaper than retail, already got them installed! At the moment a small port is out of the way, especially since I just got the bigport (almost) running. Thanks for the welcome and info! Hoping to get everything sorted out and on the street by this spring/summer and in time for grad.

  10. #30
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    I wish you luck! I once tried to build my first car for grad... It has been 10 years and it's still not done! Succeed where I failed! Haha!

  11. #31
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    sorry about just shooting off a two sentence diagnostic manual - I was using my phone.



    you can see from the diagram that the circuit opening relay has two coils - one activated by the starter, one activated by the air flow meter. what could be happening to you is that the starter part of the circuit works (running the pump while cranking) but the afm part of the circuit doesnt (keeping the pump running while the engine is drawing air through the afm)

    if you get that meter on the pump and find that it's only got 12V while cranking, start poking at the afm, maybe swap it out.

    you can get the whole wiring diagram from my repo on github (click the "view raw" link):
    https://github.com/sparkiedk/Toyota-...%20diagram.pdf

  12. #32
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    Hook the battery straight to your fuel pump to see if that's even the problem. Or test voltage.


    RETIRED

  13. #33
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    Thanks for the help guys, will test everything asap.

    If I'm not mistaken, this would also work in diagnosing the AFM as the problem would it?
    http://orangeadvan.blogspot.ca/2010/...16-got-fp.html

    If anyone in Calgary happens to have an extra AFM I could grab then lmk!

    Edit: Devin I just took a look at your for sale FB album, if that AFM is still fs I'll grab it (if I need it)!

  14. #34
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    You are not mistaken. That's part of the proper diagnosis method. Certainly shorting that connector will get you testing for the cost of a paper clip

  15. #35
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    Well that seemed to fix it. I used a paper clip on the diagnostic plug and it works, thanks guys!

  16. #36
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    Installing new rotors and wheel bearings, fixed a broken stud, and cleaned everything with some brake cleaner. A lot of the paint has seemed to found its way off the parts which let some rust in.
    What can be done with the custom coils? I figured I should do some sort of maintenance on them, rebuild them (?) and at the very least, refresh them with some paint.
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    Also did a bit of work adjusting idle. I've fiddled with the distributor, taking it out and moving it one gear left/right in order to get it timed to 10? (on diagnostic mode) with a timing light however I can never seem to get it exactly at 10? no matter how much I try. It's always either slightly above or below 10?. I adjusted the TPS to spec as well. I'm able to get the car to idle at around 1k rpm but I had to turn the idle speed screw ALL the way down. I get odd backfires sometimes too and the throttle response is a little poor as well, but I may just be expecting too much... Could the cams (261I,268E) be the reason to all of this? The T3 adjustable cam gears right now are set at TDC/0?, should I try adjusting them?

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    Btw I'm still searching for a functional bluetop afm/maf, hmu if you got one!
    Last edited by ChrisTangoJuice; 04-21-2015 at 05:40 PM.

  17. #37
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    Hey Chris,

    While you're under there you might as well undercoat/fix some rust (can't see any) with the front fenders and off (wheel well) - that's what I did on mine last year. Sometime during summer you can check out the car.

    Ray
    AE86 | Tacoma X-Runner
    4AGE 20V | 1GR-FE


  18. #38
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    Yeah undercoating and body work is going to be done however school shop regulation is stopping me. We're not allowed to do any of that sort of thing here.
    I'm going to do all of that spring time when I can drive the car home.

  19. #39
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    Woah would you look at that...
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    First time moving under its own power! Well... in my ownership at least. Just would like to say thanks to everyone who helped me out, I really appreciate it. Nothing fell off during its first shakedown in the parking lot.


    Next up, getting the car passed Alberta's OOP! Lmk if you know of any mechanics in Calgary who are more "lenient" with these sort of things.
    If not, maybe someone who can do a mock inspection.
    I think I've got a list nailed down for the big things but I'm no expert so there's probably much more.

    I need to add or modify:

    • Muffler: Currently have an overaxle, single resonator, catless exhaust. Looking to get a muffler welded on, any recommendation on decent mufflers/tips that don't look like complete fart cannons? Don't want it sounding like one either. I'm really digging the look of the HKS Sport/Brave style mufflers.
    • Windshield washer bottle, pump, wiring(?): I have the jets for the hood but the car never came with any of the other stuff, who's got some?
    • Pigtail for Fender Side Markers: Found the part#(82985-12010), wondering if anybody had a pigtail for them before I went ahead and ordered one.
    • Holes in my bay: Literally holes in my bay. There are some holes cut in the wheel well area in order to put some intercooler piping through from the PO, I don't have the skills to weld something up so I was just thinking of bolting up two plates of metal to keep things out for now haha... I could trade a member some money to weld them shut too. One hole sits right below my intake and I'm scared of water being sucked into it... and what happens after it..
    • Rear swaybar: Anybody have one for sale? Just a OEM one would do.
    Last edited by ChrisTangoJuice; 04-21-2015 at 05:41 PM.

  20. #40
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    I could lend you a rear sway bar and the rear side markers as I wont need them for some time. It would get you through the inspection and then give you time to find your own? lemme know chris.
    Mat 83 GTS Hatch 87 GTSR5 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by KingSpence View Post
    If only I put the same amount of effort into my schooling as I do my car. Education is important, but racecar is importanter.
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