Q: I just put an engine in my car, and it cranks but won't start.
A: First verify that you have power to the ECM. Your check-engine light should illuminate with the key in the ON position. If not, find the black-red wire under the fusebox on the left fender and plug it in. There is a single round black connector that you've probably missed.
Q: My starter won't crank, all I hear is a single click noise. I have a new battery (or one that tests good.) My headlights are bright.
A: This is the most popular failure mode for the starter. The starter contacts are worn out. It's simple to fix. Parts are $45 from the dealership.
You'll need o-rings for filter housing:
90029-20013 outer
96732-31060 inner
Starter contacts:
28226-64110
28226-72010
and a new oil filter.
Q: How do I change my starter contacts?
A: Get the parts. Find a 27mm socket. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Remove the starter. There are 2 bolts you can reach from the transmission side. There is one small plug, and a nut for the battery wire. If you have headers, you can pull the starter right out from the back. If you don't, then remove the oil filter and filter base (12mm + 27mm socket), then try to wiggle the starter out. You may have to remove the exhaust heat shield inside the manifold. Once the starter is out, remove the 3 screws and the metal endcap. Pull out the plunger, you will now see the contacts. Put new ones in, and make sure they're not crooked. Put the wider contact on the battery wire side for longer life. Clean up the plunger disc with a wire wheel, and then re-install the starter, filter housing with new o-rings, and a new oil filter. Change your oil while you're there.
(Edit: see http://www.dorikaze.com/showthread.php?t=11971 for a walk-through of the procedure)
Q: The starter cranks but the engine won't start.
A: Could be a bunch of things. First, check to see if your "check engine" light comes on when you turn the key to the ON position. If it doesn't light up, your engine ECM has no power. If it does light up, you can check for spark.
Q: My CHECK engine light doesn't come on with the key on.
A: Blown fuse? Check IG, AM1 and AM2.
Q: How do I check for spark?
A: Pull out a plug wire off the plugs, (any one) and put a philips screwdriver (or equivilant) into the plug wire end. Hold the screwdriver shaft 1/4" (5-6mm) away from any metal part of the engine (valvecover nuts work good, so does the engine hanging hook) and have somebody crank your engine. You should get a nice blue spark. If ya don't then there's your problem: something in the ignition system is broken, or your engine Timing Belt is broken.
Q: No spark, now what?
A: Pull off the dizzy cap or the upper timing cover, and have somebody crank the engine over for you. If the dizzy rotor doesn't turn, your timing belt broke. If it turns, then you'll have to diagnose your ignition system, check the coil, ignitor, etc.
Q: I got spark, now what?
A: Do you got gas? Is there fuel in the fuel tank? Can you hear the fuel pump running when you blip the key? On the kouki (86+) corolla, you can jumper the B+ and FP terminals in the DLC connector on the firewall. You should be able to hear the fuel pump running, and hear fuel whooshing through the fuel rail. On the zenki, you can unplug the AFM (airflow meter) and jumper the pair of connectors at one end that sits apart from the rest in the plug, that will turn on your fuel pump.
Sorting a new car, and basic modifications
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Okay, here's where the big can of worms opens up. Everyone will have a different opinion here. The following is my experience with any old car, especially 20+ year old cars.
Q: I just bought a RWD Corolla GTS. What's the most effective way to make the car go fast?
A: Most people think POWER is the key to going fast. I agree, but only to a point. I believe that you can make the car faster by making it easier to drive fast, to increase it's grip and roadholding. Make it drive like it did when it was new. First of all, you have to "sort" the car, and make sure that everything works 100%. No sense in putting 2x the power into the car if you're riding on 4 different tires, now is there? Spend a few weeks, drive the car, and fix everything that is broken. Make sure you have some decent tires on the car, and that your shocks aren't bagged out. Make sure that the car drives straight on it's own, and doesn't wander excessively on smooth surfaces.
Q: I've driven the car for several weeks, put in new shocks, grippy tires, and had the car aligned. Now what?
A: Once the car is mechanically sound, when everything works, the most effective and fun modification is the addition of a limited-slip differential, or LSD. The LSD will increase your traction on slippery surfaces. Also, when cornering near the limits of adhesion, the break-away is smoother, and easier to recover if your tail starts to slide. Very nice in winter conditions, in the wet, and will make the car more fun in the dry too.
Q: Should I get the OE (original equipment) LSD, or an aftermarket (TRD, Cusco, Kaaz, etc) one?
A: If your car came with an OE LSD, you can get it rebuilt for firmer lock up. The aftermarket LSDs have larger clutch packs, with more friction plates, for a much firmer lockup. Also, they are 4-pinion diffs, instead of the OE 2-pinion diff. They're much stronger, and less prone to exploding when abused. IMO, if you're going to get an LSD, get a TRD or Cusco one. The installation will cost you around $3-400 anyways, for bearings, LSD oil, and labour. So skip the ebay special used OE LSD which is probably worn out anyways, and not as strong/durable for motorsport applications. Remember that in 1985, the tire technology wasn't as good as today. Today's sticky street tires are easily more sticky than the race-tires of yesteryear. And if you're running R-compounds, you're going to break the OE LSD.
Q: My car sits really high, and even with the new shocks leans a lot in corners.
A: There's two reasons to lower a car. If you're doing it for looks, then IMO you're doing it for the wrong reasons. If you're increasing the spring rates to reduce body lean, and lowering the center-of-gravity (CG) for better cornering ability, then do it right the first time. If your car came with dead shocks, now is the time to decide how far you want to go with your car. If you're going beyond stage1, be sure to inspect all your suspension bushings, and consider either a full TRD bushing set, or a polyurethane kit, either from Whiteline, or Prothane. TRD bushings are quieter, more durable, and more difficult to install. They also include new upper front shock mounts. The poly bushing kits are less expensive, can squeak if not properly lubed, and are much easier to install and replace when worn out. Poly kits do not include upper front shock mounts.
Suspension mods, basic setup:
Stage1: Tokico "blue" shocks, stock springs (gasp!)
Stage2: KYB AGX (short stroke) shocks + spacers, TRD Japan 6kg front, 4kg rear.
Stage3: Coil-over front short-stroke suspension, KYB AGX, TRD, or Tokico HTS shocks, TRD-Japan rear springs, RCA,
adjustable panhard rod, and rear traction brackets. TRD or poly bushings.
Stage4: How much $$ you got? You probably don't really need my suggestions here, for aftermarket control arms, swaybars, tie rods, camber plates, RCA, etc etc.
For street use, I recommend a soft spring setup, no stiffer than 6kg front, 4kg rear springs. For track use, you may want higher spring rates, perhaps 8/6 or so. Remember, if you're on a tight budget, but eventually want a semi-track setup (Stage3) then you can always sell your stage1 or stage2 suspension to another DK member and recover some of your costs. Keep in mind that everytime you adjust the ride-height of your car, you'll need to send it for a proper alignment, including thrust angle. Also, it's pretty straightforward to swap spring rates on a coilover suspension, and you can always sell your old springs, again to recover expenses.
Q: Okay tuffguy, I'm going to track/drift my ae86
A: Then you don't need my help. You need a roll-cage. And a seamwelded chassis. And a bit more horsepower, and plenty of track time. A spare car would be nice, because a drift car doesn't make a very good commuter car.
Parking can be more fun until you get used to it. Uphill launches from stoplights when raining can be a bit dramatic as well. Basically, a lighter flywheel makes the engine more prone to stalling during low-speed manoevers. But I still run the lightest flywheel I can find for all of my personal cars.
Originally Posted by Brian
