1972 Celica ST Build

[davew]

Both ports should lead to & from the accelerator pump area. [ look inside the accelerator pump cylinder where the plunger fits ] The slow speed port, small hole under the throttle plate has to be cleared. If carb cleaner does not clean it out you may has to remove a manufacturing port plug [typically white metal] and use a hand drill or wire to clean out the carb port. Reseal the access to the port with a ball bearing or a small screw. Dave W

[white_cross]

Both ports should lead to & from the accelerator pump area. [ look inside the accelerator pump cylinder where the plunger fits ] The slow speed port, small hole under the throttle plate has to be cleared. If carb cleaner does not clean it out you may has to remove a manufacturing port plug [typically white metal] and use a hand drill or wire to clean out the carb port. Reseal the access to the port with a ball bearing or a small screw. Dave W

Thank you I was able to clean out all those passages. Carb cleaner did the trick.

[white_cross]

So I have had a couple evenings to work on the car. My carb rebuild kit came in:




I took the whole carb apart and soaked all the metal parts in Lacquer Thinner. Then I blew out all the small holes with carb cleaner till the cleaner came out of the other port. I finished cleaning by blowing out the small holes and passages with compressed air:



I put the carb all back together and mounted it back on the motor and it still would not fire. It would start and stall right away. Then I noticed a clear puddle running towards the drain. My fuel pump was leaking a lot from the weep holes. Time for a new one and no one in town could get one. Rockauto.com has them and with shipping and Canadian exchange rate it is $25 dollars cheaper than locally if they could have got them! So in the first week of December I should have my brand new fuel pump. I am guessing there was not enough fuel pressure with a leaky fuel pump to keep the motor running.

I also replaced a bunch of coolant lines I have had old hoses burst on a different car more than once so it is not worth the risk to me to run old hoses especially if this car is going to see some track time:



Next up was my hood flutes off of my 1972 Celica. I made cardboard templates off of the 1972 hood and used it to mark where to drill the mounting holes on the 1973 hood. Then I drilled the 4 holes needed to mount the hood Flutes and put them on the 1973:




Yesterday I started mounting the flat lights and today I finished.
I could have just cut out the small section needed and mounted up the flat lights but I am pretty fussy and decided to make it look factory here is the end result:



This is how I went about the installation.

Out with the old:


Just for reference on where the flat lights do not fit:




I went over to the 1972 and drew up card board templates then transfered the pattern to the 1973:



Cut out some metal:



Some hammer and dolly work:



and it fits nicely:




So now I have to figure out how to mount the fuel door. I have heard of guys glueing on studs to mount the fuel door but I am thinking about trying to mount the fuel door and still have a functioning hinge, maybe for a small compartment or something. I also need to now rewire the flat lights so I can get the brakes and turn signals to work properly. I may noticed an extra hole in the light strip with a ground running to it maybe I could mount a socket in that hole and run the signal light into it? I guess I will find out shortly.

[davew]

"I have heard of guys glueing on studs to mount the fuel door"
You need to Google riv-stud its has rivet type body that has a stud in the center. You do not need the tool to install. Just a plate W/ a hole in it and a nut to tighten it down and locked in place. Note the mounting hole in your body panel has to be the correct size for the riv-stud to work. Dave W

[white_cross]

So I spent last evening installing the fuel door. I removed the sprig and hardware I read somewhere about someone drilling and tapping 3 spots on the back of the fuel door I looked it over and it made sense so that is what I did then I drilled 3 holes in the body and mounted up the fuel door. I had to do some metal work on the tail panel to clear the studs for the ST badge etc. It may not look like much effort to install the door but to get it to all line up nicely and flush fitting took some time to get right. So I will be making the parts on the chrome trim of the tail lights and fuel door matte black like OEM. Thought about painting but paint seems to peel on chrome. So my thought was to go to the sign shop and get a sheet of black vinyl decal and put that on and I have no paint peeling issues.
Here is the tail panel right now:

[Auspete]

I've got a soft spot for this shape celica

[white_cross]

I've got a soft spot for this shape celica

Sweet! I have to agree with that for my self!

[white_cross]

I figured out the wiring for the flat lights. I wanted to keep the original plastic plug from the flat lights so this is how I went about it:

I decided to make one bulb a signal/flasher and one a brake bulb. So I cut the wire free for the middle brake light and put some shrink tubing over the solder point on the outer brake light tubing and put the pin back in the oem connector. This becomes my signal/flasher bulb:


To use the oem plug I needed to add an extra metal pin/wire to the plastic plug. Here I am soldering a piece of wire with the metal pin to the middle brake light bulb and then heat shrink tubing over the solder joint. Then I pushed the pin into the connector:


So now the middle bulb and the outer bulb are separate. The bulbs are duel element so I did not touch the tail light wires so when I turn on the lights both bulbs still light up. Here is the finished wiring modified light assembly:


I also had to sacrifice the tail light wiring harness from my 1972 Celica to get the pig tail plastic plug to connect to the flat lights. I added a wire and pin to that plug too. I cut off the 1973 tail light plug and and soldered the 1972 plug in place. I put the heat shrink tubing in place over the solder joints. and electrical taped it up all nice:


and a nice oem finished light installation:


And then there was light:


A little video demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlWNfWK82M8

[Auspete]

love it

[white_cross]

love it

Thank you!

[white_cross]

I was thinking about engine options again today. I found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3sge-3sgte-t...item3f587cfc13 This could allow me to run the w58 transmission with the beams black top motor. The 6 speed would be sweet but i have some thoughts on using the w58 with the beams. Using the w58 allows me to keep my oem speedometer and speedo cable. I like the oem gauges. I don't have to cut out the trans tunnel and modify it to fit the 6 speed. Which allow me to keep my heater and centre console. I have a w58 available from an 1984 celica for $200 possibly free if I can hook the guy up with some late 1970's early eighties toyota parts trucks.

[76RA24]

heya,

did you end up ordering those rockers from Wolf Steel?

any pics?

Pete

[white_cross]

heya,

did you end up ordering those rockers from Wolf Steel?

any pics?

Pete

I did order the rockers from wolf steel here are some pictures. They are not mounted up yet though.

[celica-fiend]

There are at least a couple much cheaper and quite probably better quality options for bellhousings for W trans to 3S block..

The 80's Toyota Toaster vans with the 3y/4y motor and manual trans.. their bh bolts up except for 1 tab you can cut and reweld in proper position, I dug mine out of a junkyard van in the mud and rain in probably an hour for like $40-50 a couple years back..

also, and my memorys a little hazy on this one, but 3VZ or 5VZ to W bell from the trucks is supposed to work as well.. the difference between the 3 or 5 is starter location..

Brett

[76RA24]

Can I ask how much?

Pete

I did order the rockers from wolf steel here are some pictures. They are not mounted up yet though.

[white_cross]

Can I ask how much?

Pete

They were $65 CAD each plus shipping and taxes

There are at least a couple much cheaper and quite probably better quality options for bellhousings for W trans to 3S block..

The 80's Toyota Toaster vans with the 3y/4y motor and manual trans.. their bh bolts up except for 1 tab you can cut and reweld in proper position, I dug mine out of a junkyard van in the mud and rain in probably an hour for like $40-50 a couple years back..

also, and my memorys a little hazy on this one, but 3VZ or 5VZ to W bell from the trucks is supposed to work as well.. the difference between the 3 or 5 is starter location..

Brett

Cool Thanks for the info I will keep this in mind.

[white_cross]

So it has been a while since an update. My hard drive crashed and I had no way of uploading pictures.

I picked up an english wheel and bead roller with my christmas bonus:




I have started making patches out of 18 gauge steel. Once I have enough patches made I will weld them in place.









This whole piece is rotten:






















inner rocker done:




This was a practice to get the ribbing in the floor board figured out:

[76RA24]

looking good!!

post up some of your metal forming techniques.

pete

[white_cross]

I have had some more fun making up some patch repair panels. I ended up making a portion of the driver side floor. The patch goes up to the frame rail. I am kind of enjoying the fact that there are no restoration panels. I get to learn a lot about making my own panels.

Cut out the old piece:


Crusty vs new and shiny:


Ready to be welded in once i sand blast and epoxy prime the arias to be welded:


So I am almost ready to weld all this stuff together and move on to the passenger side. I considered sending the old cut out to Wolf Steel so they can use it as a template to fab up more repair panels for other people who need them.

[white_cross]

looking good!!

post up some of your metal forming techniques.

pete

I spent a couple of hours watching a guy on youtube "lazzemetalshaping" https://www.youtube.com/user/lazzemetalshaping. So most of what I have done came from watching the videos. He has a lot of good teaching videos. So most of what I am doing came from watching his videos. Or learning from my dad. If you want to learn how to shape steel I highly suggest checking out Lazze's youtube channel. I have learnt a lot from watching him on youtube. He offers a couple of courses which I would love to take some day. The final course actually has you build a car body from scratch in a week out of steel or aluminum!