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Thread: Yoda Revival

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN69 View Post
    crappy... hope you get it running so you can bring it down.

    if it's been sitting that long, it could be anything at this point, it's just a matter of troubleshooting it.

    It's just weird how I drove it to Oshawa and almost back without an issue after swapping relays and now we're at a stand still. I don't know if you've heard of Ertefa (big over priced meet in Markham) last year I said my goal was to have it running in time to return for that so fingers crossed.

  2. #22
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    Your AFM has three systems inside it: Mass flow (Vs signal), air temperature (Vta signal) and fuel pump power (FC) signal. VS and Vta are probably fine as once it gets fuel it runs well. FP to B+ bypasses everything fuel switching related - AFM, COR, starter signal to COR. It only proves the fuel pump works (and in your case, the rest of the engine)

    Now we're going to assume that your COR works because you've replaced it and it didn't help. I would next suspect the AFM's ability to turn the COR on. With the afm flapper door pushed in you should see pins 1 and 2 of the afm connector short. These pins on the afm will be mated to by the green with a red tracer and brown wires on the harness connector. you can also test the harness+COR by turning the car to the on position, unplugging the afm connector and shorting the green-red and brown wires together - the fuel pump should run and the COR should click. If you get nothing from that test check to see that pin 2 has 12v from the pin to ground.

    you can see how it's laid out on the schematic below.


  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    Your AFM has three systems inside it: Mass flow (Vs signal), air temperature (Vta signal) and fuel pump power (FC) signal. VS and Vta are probably fine as once it gets fuel it runs well. FP to B+ bypasses everything fuel switching related - AFM, COR, starter signal to COR. It only proves the fuel pump works (and in your case, the rest of the engine)

    Now we're going to assume that your COR works because you've replaced it and it didn't help. I would next suspect the AFM's ability to turn the COR on. With the afm flapper door pushed in you should see pins 1 and 2 of the afm connector short. These pins on the afm will be mated to by the green with a red tracer and brown wires on the harness connector. you can also test the harness+COR by turning the car to the on position, unplugging the afm connector and shorting the green-red and brown wires together - the fuel pump should run and the COR should click. If you get nothing from that test check to see that pin 2 has 12v from the pin to ground.
    First, thanks for the effort to help me! I'd just like to start by saying that diagram is gibberish to me. I am not afraid to admit I have no clue what I am doing.

    That being said, I tested and pin 2 has 12v so I jumped green-red and brown wires together and I heard the pump running, because why not double check everything. Next I had the key in the on position and opened the AFM flapper to see pins 1 & 2 short and nothing happened. Assuming I'm supposed to hear something happening.

  4. #24
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    Im assuming the afm was plugged in when you poked the flapper, or by "nothing happened" you mean the pins did not read short on your multimeter. If either was true your afm is bad - buy a new (used) afm

    You can open up the black plastic lid on the afm and find there's a fancy ceramic potentiometer (dont **** with that) and a simple arm that opens and closes a switch - the switch that makes those pins work. check for corrosion and proper operation, the arm and switch contacts are on the left.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    Im assuming the afm was plugged in when you poked the flapper, or by "nothing happened" you mean the pins did not read short on your multimeter. If either was true your afm is bad - buy a new (used) afm

    You can open up the black plastic lid on the afm and find there's a fancy ceramic potentiometer (dont **** with that) and a simple arm that opens and closes a switch - the switch that makes those pins work. check for corrosion and proper operation, the arm and switch contacts are on the left.
    Do I just cut the seal to open the black plastic lid? if so and it isn't actually the issue does it seal up nicely again or is it forever loose? I mean off I cut the seal and its broken then I just replace no worries. But if not I want it to seal back nicely and not look hacked.

  6. #26
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    Cut seal? yes
    seal nicely? not so well, you can use black rtv and some care and get it 95%

    you need to replace it anyways, unless you trust your handiwork in this dept. I just offer this up to get the tires spinning while you source a replacement, and for your own education. I'd also like to know why those contacts failed, maybe your afm is already poorly sealed or messed with by a previous owner.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    Cut seal? yes
    seal nicely? not so well, you can use black rtv and some care and get it 95%

    you need to replace it anyways, unless you trust your handiwork in this dept. I just offer this up to get the tires spinning while you source a replacement, and for your own education. I'd also like to know why those contacts failed, maybe your afm is already poorly sealed or messed with by a previous owner.
    Alright I'll likely source a new one before I decide to cut it just because. Thankfully it's a one owner car (my father) before me and he clocked 123k km before I got my hands on it so I know it wasn't tampered with. When I tear it apart I'll document it and take photos as you'll know more than I

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scuubaroo View Post
    It's just weird how I drove it to Oshawa and almost back without an issue after swapping relays and now we're at a stand still. I don't know if you've heard of Ertefa (big over priced meet in Markham) last year I said my goal was to have it running in time to return for that so fingers crossed.
    Bah... I never go to those meets, usually always full of drama and police trying to nab idiots doing burnouts or speeding.


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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN69 View Post
    idiots doing burnouts or speeding.
    Where the **** do I sign up?!

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN69 View Post
    Bah... I never go to those meets, usually always full of drama and police trying to nab idiots doing burnouts or speeding.
    I set the goal not because I want to attend more so that I have a date in mind to get it running and back down to see everyone as it'll be easy to get everyone together for that! The cops were at bay last year, didn't seem to stir anything up unless you're an idiot of course.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    Where the **** do I sign up?!
    It's in 70 days, AE takeover?

  11. #31
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    It was run by Scion last year, parking was just STUUUUUUPID!!! It's really not worth it.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scuubaroo View Post
    It's in 70 days, AE takeover?
    V8 supra, bra! Low RPM brakestands (optional, redline preferred) and noise noise noise. I'm young at heart like an AE guy though.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blade7 View Post
    It was run by Scion last year, parking was just STUUUUUUPID!!! It's really not worth it.
    We got parking right in close beside all the food trucks, shortly after is when people started parking anywhere and everywhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    V8 supra, bra! Low RPM brakestands (optional, redline preferred) and noise noise noise. I'm young at heart like an AE guy though.
    Pardon my ignorance! Well regardless, if it makes it down there we should make something happen

  14. #34
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    Out of curiosity for future reference. What are good wheel + tire specs for the AE

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    V8 supra, bra! Low RPM brakestands (optional, redline preferred) and noise noise noise. I'm young at heart like an AE guy though.
    Ignore the quote, I just wanted to tag you somehow in this thread again. I received a new (used) afm from a DK member, it came from a running car. I swapped it out with mine to no avail. Nothing has changed! I'm at a loss

  16. #36
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    That's troubling, as it should have been the AFM, let go over the diagnostics a bit more:

    Quote Originally Posted by Scuubaroo View Post
    That being said, I tested and pin 2 has 12v so I jumped green-red and brown wires together and I heard the pump running, because why not double check everything. Next I had the key in the on position and opened the AFM flapper to see pins 1 & 2 short and nothing happened. Assuming I'm supposed to hear something happening.
    When you jumped green-red and brown this was at the AFM connector on the harness side right?

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    That's troubling, as it should have been the AFM, let go over the diagnostics a bit more:



    When you jumped green-red and brown this was at the AFM connector on the harness side right?
    Yes Sir.

    Update, replaced circuit opening relay with a brand new one. No change

  18. #38
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    Here's another video like I thought I posted before. Tag people, share it, help me get this thing running this summer



    thanks folks!

  19. #39
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    Well it's been two years since I have last posted. So here we go.. everything I have done I have learned on the fly with a Hanes manual. Prior to this I knew nothing mechanical but wanted to give it a try.

    Quick catchup, since being here last I have made no progress with the AE, done a bunch of stuff but still at a standstill. I also got rid of my Subaru and now drive a 2017 Tacoma in an attempt to have the Toyota gods on my side with the AE.

    I digress

    Long story short, the car sat for awhile. I replaced the fuel tank, fuel pump, sending unit, circuit opening relay, plugs, air filters and had it running like new . All new fluids, all new belts done before any lengthy drive. I drove it approximately 600km before I started having fuel cut issues. Mid trip while filling up with fuel the pump cut out at $14 which seemed weird before I had driven 400km and figured I'd used more fuel than that. The gauge at that point only read 1/2 tank. For the final 200km the fuel was cutting in and out, often just had to downshift for it cut back in and keep running. Thankfully I finished my drive and the car died in my driveway. I investigated it to be the circuit opening relay and replaced it with a used one with no luck. As per advice from members on the forum I replaced the AFM and had no luck. I took it to Toyota after getting frustrated. I informed them what I had done and what I had replaced. After 4 hours they called and said it is the Circuit opening Relay and it would cost $350 and take 3 weeks to arrive. I didn't allow them to replace it and just brought it back home. It is driveable if I jump B+ to Fp in the check connector which is how I get it from place to place.

    Most recently I have:
    - checked what I think to be all the ground points and they're good
    - checked power to the COR and that checks out
    - dropped the fuel tank to check the wiring there and it checks out
    - spun the gauge float around in the tank and that seems to resolve the gauge issue (the float was hitting a baffle in the tank?)
    - tank was only 1/2 full and I went to fill it up and it 'overflowed' after 3L, I was able to fill it to full if I went suuuuuuuper slow

    My questions being, bare with me, as previously stated I'm new to this:
    - Could a vacuum line leak be causing issues?
    - Is it possible the tank isn't vented properly which is causing the pressure when filling to cause an 'overflow'
    - Could the tank pressure be my issue overall?
    - I didn't replace the fuel filter.. culprit?
    - maybe far fetched, could the fuel pump be too much for the COR and be tripping it every time?

    Videos have been previously posted for the main issue

    thank you in advance for any help

  20. #40
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    It is driveable if I jump B+ to Fp in the check connector which is how I get it from place to place.
    It's totally the electrical supply to the fuel pump then. You may have broken wires or corroded connectors between the AFM, the COR and the fuel pump. Wanna try wiring a lamp between FP and ground on the check connector? As long as the light is lit the fuel pump should be on. With the ignition on and the engine not running you can poke open the AFM and see if you hear the COR clicking/fuel pump running/light bulb on.

    Given that the car starts and runs briefly I expect the COR and fuel pump wiring are okay, but the afm-cor connection isnt well. The COR poweres the pump during cranking and the AFM is to take over afterwards. That's not happening.

    Your tank venting is concerning but I would say for different reasons. You can take venting out of the loop if you like by opening the gas cap and trying to run the car again. If it needs better venting it'll get it with the cap off for sure.

    Also every toyota ive ever owned has had a super rusty tank and the filter and inlet sock around the pump are just packed with rust particles. The AE has an in-tank pump right? Shouldnt be as much of a concern in that case though.

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