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Thread: Clutch in Cressida issues.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Clutch in Cressida issues.

    Hey y'all,
    I'm just in the process of putting a 5spd in my mx36 wagon. It's pretty much all in, bled the clutch. No air in the system. Depresses great. However, the clutch pedal doesn't seem to want to return properly, and I can't figure out why...

    Does anyone have any ideas?

    As far as I can figure, it's got something to do with the assist spring on the clutch pedal. It's overcentering and not allowing the pedal to return properly. I can't figure out how to make this thing work. Does any one have the factory service procedure for clutch pedal adjustment? Maybe for a MKII supra or something?

    Any and all suggestions/help is greatly appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    If you are certain that it is over center then either you are way out of adjustment [ 1mm free play at the push rod going into the cylinder] or you need a longer rod. I just made a longer push rod using a 10mm bolt and then grinding the correct radii into the hex head to match the cup in the master cylinder. You also may need a stronger return spring. The piston in the cylinder MUST retract enough to uncover the port to allow fluid to be replenished and for pressure relief. Dave W

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    Take off the return spring and see if it returns without it?
    If it does, then you know its something to do with that spring/centering, etc.
    1979 Cressida JZX3 VVTi

    2econd Heart Garage

  4. #4
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    Aug 2010
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    Toronto, ON
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    Could also be the master or slave cylinder leaking....sometimes the leak is contained internally so its hard to see. If removing spring and or adjusting doesn't work maybe try rebuild the master and slave cylinder with new seals.
    1979 Cressida JZX3 VVTi

    2econd Heart Garage

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by davew View Post
    If you are certain that it is over center then either you are way out of adjustment [ 1mm free play at the push rod going into the cylinder] or you need a longer rod. I just made a longer push rod using a 10mm bolt and then grinding the correct radii into the hex head to match the cup in the master cylinder. You also may need a stronger return spring. The piston in the cylinder MUST retract enough to uncover the port to allow fluid to be replenished and for pressure relief. Dave W
    So you're saying there should be 1mm of pedal freeplay (travel) before anything starts to happen at the master/slave?

    Quote Originally Posted by YYZ78 View Post
    Take off the return spring and see if it returns without it?
    If it does, then you know its something to do with that spring/centering, etc.
    I had thought of this. I have a feeling that spring is going to be a bitch to get on/off though with the pedal still in the car... so I'm leaving it as a last resort type situation.
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  6. #6
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    Nov 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by JipJopJones View Post
    Does any one have the factory service procedure for clutch pedal adjustment? Maybe for a MKII supra or something?
    super pooper:
    http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...Section=CL&P=3

  7. #7
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    Aug 2010
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    I had thought of this. I have a feeling that spring is going to be a bitch to get on/off though with the pedal still in the car... so I'm leaving it as a last resort type situation.[/QUOTE]

    Good point....didn't think of that. I had mine out of the car when I was doing that.
    1979 Cressida JZX3 VVTi

    2econd Heart Garage

  8. #8
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    Aug 2010
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    Toronto, ON
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    Just as a side note. When I converted my x3 from auto to manual, I had a problem with the firewall where the clutch master mounted flexing when I depressed the clutch. I reinforced the area and pedal feel and clutch movement was much improved.
    1979 Cressida JZX3 VVTi

    2econd Heart Garage

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
    Thanks for the link! This is helpful.

    Quote Originally Posted by YYZ78 View Post
    Just as a side note. When I converted my x3 from auto to manual, I had a problem with the firewall where the clutch master mounted flexing when I depressed the clutch. I reinforced the area and pedal feel and clutch movement was much improved.
    I was having the same issue, I ended up making a bracket that goes from the clutch pedal assembly bracket to the metal frame that holds the fuse box. Seems pretty solid now, no flexing or anything.


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  10. #10
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    Sep 2009
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    North Gower ON
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    What car did you use as a donor for the parts?
    2002 & 2005 Capital City Speedway ministock champion
    2- 3rd gen Celica Stock Cars; 85 Celica GTS Convertible
    3-7th Gen Celica road and race cars
    86 Cressida wagon with a w58 swap
    Many Toyota Trucks

    "It's better to be in the race for a second than to spectate forever." St Merlin

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dentman View Post
    What car did you use as a donor for the parts?
    This is the thing. I'm not 100% sure. I bought the swap off a guy on CL. He's claiming all the parts came out of a 1985 Supra. That being said, I'm not so sure this is correct, because there have been a few things so far that just don't add up.
    I was under the impression that the MK3 supra trans was the one to have for a cressy swap, but this one lines up perfectly, so no complaints there.
    The clutch pedal was a bit of an issue... But mostly fixed that. Drive shaft he gave me was totally wrong, way too short. Having that lengthened.
    The master cylinder he said he bough "specifically for a Cressida swap" online, so who knows what that's actually out of. Slave I bought at a parts store. It's for an '87 supra....
    I'm confident I'll get it sorted. It's just taking much longer than I had originally anticipated. And costing a bit more. But that's how these things go.


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  12. #12
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    I swapped an exhaust system from a mkII supra to a cressy (wagon) once, the cressy is definitely longer.

    edit: longer between the axles I mean.
    Last edited by Sparkie; 01-26-2016 at 06:37 AM.

  13. #13
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    The 1mm ".040" freeplay is at the cylinder, before the push rod contacts the piston. You are going to half 1/2"+ at the pedal. Dave W

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by davew View Post
    The 1mm ".040" freeplay is at the cylinder, before the push rod contacts the piston. You are going to half 1/2"+ at the pedal. Dave W
    Thanks for the clarification. I think at the moment I have zero freeplay. I'll double check when I got work on the car tomorrow.
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