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Thread: Overheating issues

  1. #1
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    Overheating issues

    I recently replaced my radiator, flushed everything 3 times, and burped the system but when I drive, the temp needle will be in the 11 oclock position but when I start to push it, the needle will gradually move to the 1-2 oclock position until I turn on my heater.

    What would be causing this? did I not burp the system long enough? I did it for 15 minutes, the coolant in my funnel did not budge at all, no bubbles.

  2. #2
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    Every time I have to drain coolant from the 4AGE, it takes 4 or 5 times, running the car before I no longer have to add coolant to the over flow tank. It's a real PITA to get all the air out of the system. I've added an 1/8" hole to the top of the thermostat to help in filling the system plus I run with the heater valve open until I no longer have to re-fill the over flow tank to the top off mark. Dave W

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by davew View Post
    Every time I have to drain coolant from the 4AGE, it takes 4 or 5 times, running the car before I no longer have to add coolant to the over flow tank. It's a real PITA to get all the air out of the system. I've added an 1/8" hole to the top of the thermostat to help in filling the system plus I run with the heater valve open until I no longer have to re-fill the over flow tank to the top off mark. Dave W
    Good point on the heat valve being open, run the car till op temp then open that vavle and keep refilling. Op temp means the thermostat is open fully. Check the thermostat is working by boiling on your stove with a thermometer.

    If everything doesn't work check your plugs for Headgasket issues, also check your exhaust at start up and the water pump/belt. Also if you have a jank old rad it might just be clogged.

    Quote Originally Posted by woodenturn View Post
    DK should ban such nonsense. 2 cents~ sr86 www.dorikaze.net/showthread.php?32933-Elizabeth

  4. #4
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    Use a radkitplus. Filled first time, no air, everytime. And all in under 60 seconds.


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  5. #5
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    I know it's not any of those issues since I didn't have any overheating issues with the old rad and this rad is fresh. I'll check my HG and thermo anyway.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunray View Post
    Use a radkitplus. Filled first time, no air, everytime. And all in under 60 seconds.
    I just ordered an equivelent off ebay, it'll come in a month.

    This is seriously pissing me off, for 2 consequitive days, an hour off my time, I'd run my engine with the heat on with the rad cap off to get all the bubbles out, you'd think that would be enough but as soon as I go for a drive, my temp needle starts to creep to the right and I can see heat distortion coming off my hood, ****ing pissing me off.

  7. #7
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    What about one of these inline with a heater core hose or wherever the high spot is?


  8. #8
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    I had this problem with my 22re in my Celica many years ago.

    I figured out then burping through the radiator fill works best when the front of the car is on ramps, so the radiator fill neck is higher than the rest of the engine. It worked so well now I do that with every vehicle I do a rad swap in and haven't had any issues.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mdnght Lvr View Post
    I just ordered an equivelent off ebay, it'll come in a month.

    This is seriously pissing me off, for 2 consequitive days, an hour off my time, I'd run my engine with the heat on with the rad cap off to get all the bubbles out, you'd think that would be enough but as soon as I go for a drive, my temp needle starts to creep to the right and I can see heat distortion coming off my hood, ****ing pissing me off.
    That sounds more like a clogged rad or something else amiss.


    Or you could have said "sorry, my kidnap victims keep kicking my elbow, it made me drop my crack pipe and swerve"

    -bangnscrape

  10. #10
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    I parked on a decline, drained everything, removed my thermostat, gonna boil test it and then serve it to someone for dinner but I realized that when I removed the housing, quite a bit of coolant came gushing out, I'm thinking thst there was still water in there when I added coolant before thus messing with the water to coolant ratio.

    The next time, I will lift the front and do it correctly, hopefully it will work, I did it on level ground when I added the coolant.

  11. #11
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    Try running it without the thermostat and also verify with a pyrometer (from Canadian Tire) the actual head temp where the sensor is screwed in.
    Also disconnect and reconnect the guage sensor wire, as it may have been disturbed in the repair and is sending a crappy signal to the instrument panel.
    Hope this helps.
    2002 & 2005 Capital City Speedway ministock champion
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    "It's better to be in the race for a second than to spectate forever." St Merlin

  12. #12
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    Ok, water pup works, so does the thermostat but I sealed the housing with a paqper gasket but it now leaks alittle.

    What would be a proper method of sealing the housing? I'm guessing my endless bubbles are coming from this particular leak.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dentman View Post
    Try running it without the thermostat and also verify with a pyrometer (from Canadian Tire) the actual head temp where the sensor is screwed in.
    Also disconnect and reconnect the guage sensor wire, as it may have been disturbed in the repair and is sending a crappy signal to the instrument panel.
    Hope this helps.
    Will do, I'll also test the coolant for exhaust vapors.

  14. #14
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    ^ so what was the result?
    2002 & 2005 Capital City Speedway ministock champion
    2- 3rd gen Celica Stock Cars; 85 Celica GTS Convertible
    3-7th Gen Celica road and race cars
    86 Cressida wagon with a w58 swap
    Many Toyota Trucks

    "It's better to be in the race for a second than to spectate forever." St Merlin

  15. #15
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    Have you checked out your fan? I had issues with overheating in my AE. In rush hour traffic it would overheat, and be fine on the highway once the air was being pushed over it quickly. We checked out the stock clutch fan and it was pretty much useless. The bearing was shot on it I believe? Replaced it with an e-fan and it solved the problem, also added bonus of freeing up room in the engine bay
    Just a Corolla Girl living in a material world.

  16. #16
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    I forgot about replying to this thread. On my 22re I didn't have an actual gasket around the thermostat housing, it was a rubber o-ring that went around the thermostat. Unless the 4AGE is different? I haven't had a chance to take one of those apart...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dentman View Post
    ^ so what was the result?
    Been a complete pain in the ass. Used blue RTV and gasket paper and sealed the housing, got a new thermostat, got a 1.3 Bar Koyo rad cap to be compatible with my Koyo and it still overheated, so my 200$ Rad kit plus was not compatible with my Koyo rad.

    I suspected that it might be my Mishimoto Fan shroud so I removed it and re installed my previous one, went for a drive and it was good so far but I won't be satisfied until I drive it in hot daytime weather.

    The Mishimoto shroud had a gap against the radiator, they weren't touching but my previous fans were powerful and stuck right to the radiator.

    I hope it works this time.

  18. #18
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    I previously ziptied the wires to the rad support. Could the heat from the radiator touching the wires somehow affect the fan's speed?

    With my new setup, I insulated the wires in a plastic pipe before securing them to the support.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mdnght Lvr View Post
    Could the heat from the radiator touching the wires somehow affect the fan's speed?
    In theory it's possible, however unless the wires you wan were way too thin it's not a concern.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by aecacia View Post
    Have you checked out your fan? I had issues with overheating in my AE. In rush hour traffic it would overheat, and be fine on the highway once the air was being pushed over it quickly. We checked out the stock clutch fan and it was pretty much useless. The bearing was shot on it I believe? Replaced it with an e-fan and it solved the problem, also added bonus of freeing up room in the engine bay
    WEll, I turned out to be my fans after all.

    My fancy Mishimoto fans with the shroud were not ample enough to get the job done. With my no name powerful fans, It cooled the car nicely, even in high heat, I'm so glad.

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