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Thread: The little coupe that nobody loved.

  1. #21
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    Hmmm, I wonder who's car that is then. They're old pics, and the engine bay is gray. Looks like a cruise wire in the pic. Oh well, the process is the same for installing fan relays. Tap into the ignition-on wire for the alternator harness using a tinnerman splice. Connect to the main battery feed on the alternator, and connect to the fan switch. And a ground wire. No real need for fusing, if the fan shorts out in an accident and happens to be active, either the relays will pop, or hopefully the 80A alternator fusible link will blow. But the fans don't run all the time anyways. And you'll likely turn off the key to cut power to the fans.
    - Brian


  2. #22
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    its joes car

    good to have you back brian, let me know when you order koni race, a 4.778 and an underaxle. the konis are good for your back and gentle on the car, its a good investment.

  3. #23
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    Haha yes! It is Joe's car!

    The Koni race fronts are on my wish list, along with camaro rears. They've been on the wish list for a year now. The previous car had them and I like them a lot. But I'm finally trying to keep the car on a shoestring budget.

    The under axle exhaust will likely be made from reclaimed parts. And the car sees daily highway driving so the 4.3 final drive will stay. 4.8 final drives are fun for city and track use, but don't fit in with this little coupe
    - Brian


  4. #24
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    Fan and lights write-up were very helpful. Never thought of DRLs as options but it's very useful to remain visible.

  5. #25
    visean's Avatar
    visean is offline Yo, troubled night in the John
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    I'm with you on running with at least marker lights on all the time.

    Another satefy upgrade I like to make is to add a bosch relay to each corner controlled by the turn signal power. 87 to turn signal and 87a to corner marker. This will make the corner marker and turn signal alternate during indication and leave the corner markers on solid the rest of the time. I feel it helps people beside and not just behind you see your signaling.

    I remember a vancouver member getting a VI because his car didn't do this. lol

  6. #26
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    That's another excellent suggestion for upgrading git daily driver purposes.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by visean View Post
    I'm with you on running with at least marker lights on all the time.

    Another satefy upgrade I like to make is to add a bosch relay to each corner controlled by the turn signal power.
    It's actually possible to rewire the side markers to do this by floating the ground, without the addition of any parts. Didn't think of doing this on my car because I have the factory BMW signals on it. ie, have factory signals, but never use them
    - Brian


  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    It's actually possible to rewire the side markers to do this by floating the ground, without the addition of any parts. Didn't think of doing this on my car because I have the factory BMW signals on it. ie, have factory signals, but never use them
    More details on this please! I'm about to start wiring my Levin lights up and might as well do as many "upgrades" as possible while I'm in there.
    Mat 83 GTS Hatch 87 GTSR5 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by KingSpence View Post
    If only I put the same amount of effort into my schooling as I do my car. Education is important, but racecar is importanter.
    Stuff I'm Selling
    IG Mattyballz86

  9. #29
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    glad to see you back bryan, are you setting up diffs again?!
    Quote Originally Posted by 4age
    "The Miata will get some compliments along with some ?hairdresser? comments and odd looks from the average public, enthusiasts are never really sure if you are a stance guy, a drifter, or a homosexual"
    BUILD THREAD!!!
    http://www.dorikaze.net/showthread.p...-pics-page-5!*

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by dano View Post
    glad to see you back brian, are you setting up diffs again?!
    Never stopped setting them up. Just had to quit the scene for a while so that I wouldn't get all depressed thinking about a car I didn't own. For the past few years I've been playing with toyota trucks. Still old skool though.
    - Brian


  11. #31
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    Fuel gauge

    Well, a 30 year old car having an inaccurate fuel gauge is sometimes a matter of acceptance. Accept that the car isn't new. Accept that the fuel gauge reads low. Accept that the car will one day run out of gas.

    Today was that day.

    The fix? Diagnose and repair the flipping sender.

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    The sender lives by the right rear tail lights. Expose the sender by removing the cover with 3 philips screws. The blue wire and plug is for the fuel pump. Carefully set these aside. The less handling they receive the less chance of them breaking.
    The five screws retaining the sender are fragile and likely rusted in place. Knock them around with a drift or an extension with a philips socket on it. Then maybe hit with heat gun (not torch) and remove. Breaking these screws can cause a whole lot of misery and grief. Breaking them is not recommended. It's better to stop and not repair than break them. For real.

    Prevent dirt from falling into the fuel tank and making problems that are avoidable. Dirt will end up in the fuel filter, which has limited capacity. If it's almost full, you'll create a fuel restriction. Avoid this problem by cleaning with compressed air, or a brush and garden hose if necessary.

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    Take the sender out and carefully remove the cover to expose the inside of the potentiometer. Its easier and less messy to do this when the tank is near empty. Inspect the wiper arm, mine had inadequate tension and was worn through in a spot. To repair, I bent the stopper tab to allow more travel and moved the float further so I could gently bend the wiper arm and increase spring pressure. Then plug it back in and turn the key on to inspect operation.

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    1. with the float at the top, your gauge should read full.
    2. with the metal bobble not in fuel, the gas light should come on and stay on.

    If these things aren't happening, get a test lead and short the middle wire (yellow blue) to the ground wire (white-black) and ensure that the low fuel warning bulb in the dash works. Replace the low level light sender if required. Most toyotas in the 80s, 90s and early 2000ish vehicles will have a compatible sensor. Junkyard surfing will produce the most affordable repair.

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    Of course, installation is the reverse of removal. I like to use anti-seize compound or grease on the screws that go into the tank. The cover plate screws don't require this because they go into plastic retainers. Also, lay the connectors carefully in the trunk floor to avoid damage due to trunk contents. Mine still had the rubber flap so I re-secured it.
    Last edited by Brian; 10-27-2016 at 05:28 PM.
    - Brian


  12. #32
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    That's a handy little write-up
    1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
    1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
    ? 1972 Celica race car

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by projectae86 View Post
    More details on this please! I'm about to start wiring my Levin lights up and might as well do as many "upgrades" as possible while I'm in there.
    try it. connect your side or corner marker between the turn signal and the park light circuit. instead of ground. use the signal lamp wire for ground and see what happens.
    - Brian


  14. #34
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    I've been collecting parts for almost a year now. A piece here, a piece there. The brake conversion is almost ready to install. First the front brakes will be from an RA6x celica that was sourced by Migs. He found a car at the wrecker, and graciously offered to strip it. Rear brakes are the 86tuning/AMT BBK that gives about 10% more rear braking power from the larger rotor.

    Parts required:

    1. camber plates
    2. front struts with spindles, hubs, bearings, calipers from celica, supra or Cressida
    3. coilover conversion kit
    4. special RCA to adapt the different bolt patterns.

    The celica spindles will provide the most camber, although supra spindles with NC-RCA (offset roll-center adjusters) will provide adequate camber at a moderately lowered ride height. Cressida brakes will be biggest, but require larger rims. The celica and supra brakes will fit inside 14" rims of your choice.

    I'll update this when I get a chance to take some more pictures.
    - Brian


  15. #35
    visean's Avatar
    visean is offline Yo, troubled night in the John
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    Nice. Can't wait to see it.

    Does 86 tuning/AMT have any more rear BBK laying around? I would like one too.

  16. #36
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    Well here's some pics.

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    The celica front suspension. Thanks Migs! These are the parts that started the whole thing. Once I secured the bigger brakes, it was time to find the rest of the pieces. The celica/supra brakes are from a bigger car and are beefier all around. Disadvantage is that they don't allow 13" rims. Oh well. Also, the bolt spacing doesn't allow them to bolt up to the corolla steering arms. This is a problem that can be addressed in a few different ways.
    1. Run Celica arms which bolt up to the ae86 ball joints.
    2. Run an NC-RCA with different bolt patterns. But this creates it's own set of problems.
    3. Custom something up to match the AE86 steering arm to the RA6x/MA6x strut assembly.

    In any case you'll need a coil-over kit to put everything together.

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    The celica steering arm as you can see is quite a bit longer than the corolla one. Which makes for slower steering, and less angle. Not really a good thing, unless you're planning on running longer arms for a manual rack ?!? for lighter steering. Not my cup of tea.

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    Used camber plates from japan.

    No pics of the coil over kit, there are plenty of choices in many many spring rates. Mine will get a 20mm cut and run a 40mm spacer to fit my dampers.
    Last edited by Brian; 07-31-2017 at 08:04 PM.
    - Brian


  17. #37
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    I just had my steering knuckles shortened, made life easier. Warren or Curtis could do it for you

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by visean View Post
    Nice. Can't wait to see it.

    Does 86tuning/AMT have any more rear BBK laying around? I would like one too.
    Not at this time. There's a few options though, and we may make some more in future.



    Quote Originally Posted by Duy- View Post
    I just had my steering knuckles shortened, made life easier. Warren or Curtis could do it for you
    Yes, but welding suspension components is illegal because it's potentially dangerous. Welding steering components is even sketcher, and not recommended, even by competent welders. I'm not saying your setup is bad, just that anyone contemplating the setup should know why it's not legal to weld steering and suspension components. I have welded steering and suspension components in the past, but again, don't recommend it.

    On a previous setup we built a stacked RCA out of steel to deal with the bolt pattern issue. On my white car I used NC-RCA to deal with it.
    Last edited by Brian; 07-31-2017 at 11:50 PM.
    - Brian


  19. #39
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    nothing about my car is road legal.

    https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/a...-strut-casings

  20. #40
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    Just did the race car yesterday.

    The stock celica knuckles move the strut a bit too far inboard and make some swaybar clearance issues at droop. Too much camber loss too. Could be corrected through LCA lengthening, but I am going to slot the one hole on the corolla manual arms to fit the 90mm spacing to get my angle back too. Next step is making my on GTX2 style front control arms.
    1JZ 1984 Celica GTS
    1UZ 1981 Corolla sedan
    ? 1972 Celica race car

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